dirtymike72

iTrader: (1)

so I purchased a 2005 gto to take the motor and trans out of to put into my 72 skylark. I've been doing a lot of looking around on at other swaps (mainly chevelles....practically the same thing)

My biggest concern is cutting the trans tunnel. I'm fine with that but for some reason I really don't want to loose my bench seat. I've had the car since high school and having the bench seat always made it easier with the ladies.....kinda like to keep it that way. I'm ok with cutting the floor to fit it, but I really want to keep the bench and not have to swap to buckets.

I was looking at the headman swap kit along with their headers. Will those mounts set the motor too high to fit under there? I have seen some people say that the oil pan would need to be notched and modified, and I'm fine with doing that. I know I need an f body pan, so if I screw it up i can just get another one and start over.

Also for cooling, I was thinking of using the gto radiator, any issues with that?

For the fuel delivery, I replaced my stock tank a few years ago and don't want to have to buy a new tank. I know I could modify my existing tank and put in a sump as well as an in tank fuel pump, but there are no baffles and I think you're supposed to have those for an efi fuel tank setup.
What about using an inline electric fuel pump instead? This would eliminate the need to even add a sump correct?

For wiring, I found a guy who claimed for under 300 he would modify my stock gto wiring harness to a stand alone harness.

As for gauges, I'm going to have to cheap out by this point. After everything else I'll have gone through my budget for this year so I'm going to need something to get me by for a few months. Any recomendations?
I do know that for the tach I want to get the correct buick hood tach, but I need to figure out what it will take to make it work for this motor.

as far as engine performance, I plan on just doing a mild cam, which along with the long tube headers should bump up the power a little. The gto is fast enough and this car should be lighter which would make it feel a little faster. I don't plan on racing, just a daily driver that will be fun when a ricer pulls up next to me.

also, for the transmission, any suggestions for pedal and master cylinder assemblies? should I just use the stock gto ones?

wheels and tires; 17" buick rally wheels and I need to figure out the best tire size for it. suspension will come a little later which will involve being lowered so i gotta make sure what I buy now will still fit when the car is a few inches lower.

also, if there are things you think i'm missing or advice i should know, please feel free to comment.

1989GTA

Which transmission? You may not have to cut the transmission tunnel. I believe those were big enough for a TH400 to fit. If a T6 your might have to make some small modifications.

As to the oil pan I would take a serious look at the new Holley oil pan.

On my 65 Skylark conversion I used the Dirty Dingo sliders so I could move the engine back and forth to find the best fit for everything including the headers.

On the 72 Skylark I don't know how wide the support is for the radiator. You would just have to measure.

Tanks Inc makes an intank fuel pump you can install on your existing tank. I did that on my 65 Skylark. It comes with a baffle.

I used the 2007 Escalade harness for my conversion. I did the modifications myself. So the 2005 GTO could be made to work.

I am not all that familiar with the gauges to make a recomendation.

I would use the stock GTO clutch pedals if you have them available.

On my 65 Skylark I went with 245/45ZR17 tires up front with a 8" wide rim. Backspacing was 5" but I should have went with 5.25".

On the back I went with a 285/40ZR17 with an 9.5" wide wheel. I had to modify the wheel wells to fit it in. However yours is wider from the factory on the 72. Maybe a 275 would fit yours without problems. My backspacing was different than yours would be but maybe 6" would work in your case.

dirtymike72

iTrader: (1)

the transmission is the t56 6 speed.
I'm trying to get all the parts lined up so I can just buy everything at once so once I start I won't have to stop.

As far as exhaust from headers back, I'm thinking about the flow master kit and adding some mufflers on the quieter side and also some electric cutouts

91FormulaKiller

iTrader: (28)

hmm my post didnt go up, so im gonna be short this time, its an MN12 6 speed not a T56, if you have the whole car as it looks like you said, try to make everything possible work, if it were me with the whole car at my disposal, id swap EVERYthing i could and bust out the welder to make brackets for things that wont easily fit. Think pedals, radiator, brake booster / slave etc etc. A little fab work will go a long way and save a ton of money. Also it'd be easier to use an F-body oil pan and notch the x member and re weld than cutting up a good pan. My .02, good luck.

99VetteFRC

I just put a LS1/4L60E in 69 Chevelle. I used the stock f-body pan and slider mounts. I also used the f-body accessories. I notched the crossmember because I can weld steel but not aluminum. I also used slider mounts but found I had to move the frame mounts back about 1/2" and drill new holes. Everything fits great.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...ls1-4l60e.html

Also when I did my 70 Chevelle I used a CTS-V pan and it fit perfect. No notching needed.

ig109

I fit my stuff in there without cutting the floor.. I know a G body is a completely different body but if you look around most of the guys doing the swaps say you have to cut the floors on these cars too..

Make your own mounts.. play around with engine position until you get it in there.. You don't always have to go the route everyone else does.. If you can live with a little bit of the pan hanging past the crossmember then just throw it in there with some old books or wood to support it on the crossmember and weld up some mount plates.

Also not sure if your car came with factory gauges or not but it is as simple as putting your old sending units on the LS engine to make the factory stuff work.. No need for autometers everywhere