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I got this from another site. But its pretty good at explaining drive line angle. If you haven't changed the driveshaft angle, you only need to move the trans mount to correct position( up or down /side to side) with vehicle weight on axles. Then you can measure for your driveshaft.
Last edited by lsxRanger94; 04-08-2014 at 06:38 AM.
I got this from another site. But its pretty good at explaining drive line angle. If you haven't changed the driveshaft angle, you only need to move the trans mount to correct position( up or down /side to side) with vehicle weight on axles. Then you can measure for your driveshaft.
Nice find. My rear end angle is set to about 3 degrees at normal ride height. I did all this when i installed the 4 link suspension.
I think the important thing to take away from this diagram is to measure the engine angle at the output flange of the transmission.
Thanks again. You've become one heck of a mentor.
Did i tell you a cranked the engine over? The starter seems to spin a little slower than i would expect. I am assuming this is happening because it has less teeth?
2 Less teeth will make a slight difference but it will start just fine. Thanks for the compliment. Looks like you will be test driving around pretty soon. When you get ready for driveshaft measurement. Denny's drive shaft has a pretty good sheet of where to take measurements.
there are several options for headers
have you tried the stock headrs from a corvette (center outlet)'
or a L76 G8 GT header (rear outlet)
i am using a set of headers from art morrison chassis on my 52 fleetline
will be trying a test fit when i get back home in may
will post pics than
good luck
steve
looking further at post and see headers already in place
sorry for late information.
Last edited by sfiore; 04-24-2014 at 02:51 AM.
Reason: revision
What is this hole/port in the intake manifold for? What part goes inside there so I can plug it?
Here is my current issue
I flipped the radiator core support around so that it is technically backwards. I did this intentionally because of the lack of space due to the intake piping. Not sure if this is going to workout or not.
Shopping for a radiator that will fit my 1954 Chevy.
What are the small fittings on the bottom of the radiator used for? Isn't that for Power Steering cooling?
The hole in the intake is for EGR. you can freeze plug it or buy a nifty cover. The ports on the bottom of your radiator are for transmission cooler.
OK. I figured either transmission or Powersteering. Transmission makes more sense, but I thought the fittings were kind of small for the transmission.
I plan on ordering my power steering hoses today if the companies are open, if not then next week for sure. I want to talk to the companies to make sure the items they advertise are exactly what I need.
power steering line, you can have Napa or you favorite trucking repair company make some up with the correct fittings. The other option is get AN adapter fittings and make your own which would look nicer.
I wish some of the guys with the 53/54 cars would chime into this thread more. I have so many questions.
I was pretty pissed off and annoyed with the situation but I've gotten over this and am moving on. The shop i bought the motor mount kit from told me they have done "lots" of LS1 swaps into these cars. They told me all the parts to buy to make this work without major modification. So far, none of that has been the case.
If i didn't have access to a machine shop and know how to machine/weld this swap never would have worked.
Onto my question.
I am using those Radiator hoses that can be formed to any shape. Unfortunately, with the tight fit and the awkward thermostat housing direction I have a new problem. I am hoping that if i buy a shorter hose that might get rid of this Kink:
Sorry you're running into so many issues! I know I had a few parts of my build that made me want to throw in the towel. I would have to step away for a few days and cool off before I got back at it.
For my lower hose I had to use a hose coupling to join part of a hose I found at my local parts store and a silicone 130 degree bend I bought online. It was still tricky, but that's what I had to do with such a tight turn and short distance.
I had to do something similar for the top hose, but I was able to use two sections of the same hose I found at the parts store.
If you have any other questions, just post in here or message me and I'll be more than happy to help if I can!
I used a 96 mustang 3.8 housing with my 05 tstat and o-ring. no leaks @ almost 1000 miles. A windstar 3.8 housing comes straight out with same bolt pattern. I don't know if it has the recess for the o-ring or not as have not used one.
Last edited by lsxRanger94; 12-24-2014 at 05:18 AM.
I used a 96 mustang 3.8 housing with my 05 tstat and o-ring. no leaks @ almost 1000 miles. A windstar 3.8 housing comes straight out with same bolt pattern. I don't know if it has the recess for the o-ring or not as have not used one.
So you used a 1996 Mustang 3.8L engine Tstat housing and a 2005 Mustang tstat?
Are you also saying that the Windstar housing is the same as the Mustang housing?
I'm going to try a shorter radiator hose to see if that helps avoid the kinking. If not, i will definitely explore your suggestion.
I have a '54, but it's a Ford... I had the same lower rad hose problem and here's how I fixed it.
I got a CSR straight thermostat housing from Summit and a few radiator hoses with useful bends from Autozone. I also got a short piece of stainless tubing from I don't remember where. Cut the hoses up, clamped them together, and voila.
I've been in the street rod community for some time and one of the biggest topics is overheating. If you look at a car that has overheating problems nothing jumps out as a big solution. Usually the solution is 5 degrees here and 5 degrees there. Everything from a bent rear end to air lock in the engine copartment. One problem to eliminate early on is the radiator. Bite the bullet and order a custom one for your application, including bib size/location and trans cooler...etc. A cleaned up Crosley radiator will never work. I've always had problems with the upper and lower hoses. Bend a coat hanger and go to the local parts store. Know the I.D. of the hose and start looking at their stock. It will take some imigination and usually requires cutting up hoses with hard couplers. I've never likes the universal hose because it can cause turbulance and introduce air into the system thereby reducing the cooling capacity. Sorry for the rant, just trying to pass along years of problem solving.
04-08-2014, 06:31 AM
