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I suppose you could fabricate one. Take a steel plate with the base holes. Then weld 2 nuts to the plate. But, you would lose vibration isolation.
Can you not bend or modify the crossmember? Maybe flip it or section it? I'd go that direction, but perhaps you can't weld?
I thought about that but the transmission crossmember goes together so well.
I was thinking of putting some bushings between the bottom mounting plate and the crossmember to allow teh rubber mount to sit lower.
I did some google searching and found a picture of three different transmission mounts all different heights. Unfortunately those heights were not stated nor were the manufactures of those mounts.
So I machined off .100" and it was ok. I decided to go another .030" off and the nuts that are molded into the rubber came flying out. But i did test fit it and the machining did the job.
So now i need to buy a new rubber mount and machine to the height i need.
I need to find or purchase a new driveshaft. I read different websites and watched a few videos on how to measure to find a driveshaft that works. Here are a few minor questions before doing so:
Car has airride suspension
1. How would i load the suspension in a manner that is equivalent to the car on the ground and rideheight while the car is on jackstands allowing me to slide underneath?
2. From the sites i have read measuring the driveshaft overall length is pretty straight forward. But how do i make sure that the yoke that connects to the transmission has enough distance to slide into the transmission when i let the air out of the bags and have the car lay frame?
Since you have air bags you can take the shocks off temporarily and in their place bolt up some metal bars that put it at ride height.
When you lay frame, the driveshaft will actually pull out of the trans, not push in. The shortest distance between the pinion yoke and the transmission output shaft is when the two are inline and parallel.
Hey guys
What is the thread size and pitch of the Gear Selector Shaft of the 4L60e transmission?
I have purchased two different pitch 10mm thread nuts. the 1.25 pitch goes on 3-4 turns but then starts to bind.
the 1.5 pitch goes on about 2-3 turns and binds tighter.
THe previous owner obviously cross threaded or had the wrong nut on there at some point.
you can put an ls6 valley cover on it and eliminate that big pcv hose all together.
Originally Posted by ls1parkwood
Its one more step in making a really clean looking engine. You can see the small "u" shaped hose next to the throttle body is the only hose involved in my pcv system now. It eliminated the huge nasty hose that always falls apart and is routed all the way around the side and back of the engine. Also the price of the ls6 valley cover is close to the same as a new pcv hose.
Guys
I'm going to remove my intake manifold to paint it. I was starting to reconsider the LS6 valley cover modification that you guys run.
It looks like a little bit of a pain in the *** to do all the modifications to make it work.
Are you following the instructions on LS1.com?
This looks familiar to what im up to,49 Chevy-- nova clip - Ls3. Lots of good info here, just encountering the radiator thing. Keep after it you'll get it licked.
Hey guys
Its been a while since i posted. I've been working on the car here and there but my freetime i getting more and more limited.
I am trying to decide where to mount the Chassis wiring harness. I am trying to keep the engine bay as clean as possible but under the dash is getting tight. I have a few ideas I'm planning with and will snap some pictures tonight. But i wanted to see where some of you have mounted your fuse blocks to give me some ideas.
Currently i have the engine harness behind the gauge cluster, the ECU is mounted center of the dash. I'm trying to keep the passenger side of the dash as free as possible just in case i add air conditioning one day.
I've built a bracket to mount the gauges on the side of the ECU, in the center of the dash behind the chrome speakercover/ash tray. This means, I would have to remove the chrome piece to get to the fuses, but I don't think that's a huge deal. What do you think?
Space under the dash gets eaten up FAST. On my '39 it's very crowded with fuse panels, A/C and electronics. While building I weld a stick of 1" angle iron across the firewall on the inside. Before mounting I drill holes about every 1-2 inches to mount stuff to and to use as a cable run. Very handy over the last several builds. From left to right on the firewall is TAC, relays, fuse panel, APP, F.I. fuse panel, A/C, A/C hoses and right side is the ECU. Of course there is NO room for a glove box but did find room for the cowl vent motor.
Sorry, call to dinner and in a hurry...12588923 is the TAC and 15821777 is the APP that worked for me. My donor was a 2003 Trailblazer but the tune was '05. Took me a while to figure it out.
09-12-2016, 09:01 AM
