WCRiot

Engine:LS1 from 2002 Camaro
Transmission: 4l60E tranmission
Car: 1954 Chevrolet 210 deluxe.
Motor mounts are: Transdapt LS1 to SBC with 1inch backset. (p.s. never buy from these guys)


Installed on mounts. I'm gonna have to cut the mounts more to make more room as the oil pan width seems to be hitting the mounting but not too bad.
Question: Would the factory bracket work fine with my application or do you think i am going to run into problems? Engine i bought doesn't have brackets on it.


Clearance between front of throttle body to Core Support 6-1/2inches.


Crank pulley to steering rack clearance. Looks acceptable to me.

HERE IS WHERE THE CONCERNS START


Passenger side view.

passenger side of block to frame rail is 2-1/2inch clearance.


Drive side showing possible location of steering column



How on earth am i going to be able to get headers on this engine and have room for the steering column?

ANy suggestions on Headers i should purchase to try? Should i get different motor mounts? Some people i have talked to have told me that the motor mounts could have been a little higher up from the crossmember.

WCRiot

Just saw that i had 2 threads of the same post. I deleted the incorrect post so please use this thread for all help and advice.

Thanks

lsxRanger94

Have you looked at the Sanderson block huggers CC1ls1? Those are pretty close to the old ram horn sbc manifolds exit.

WCRiot

I have had 2 people from No Limit refer me to Sanderson but no one ever gave me the specific header to use. You are the first. Thank you.

I hate to get too picky but are there any other options? The Sanderson headers are pretty expensive.

NO Limit told me to look at the Speedway Motors cast iron header or the Headman head for LS1 swaps. Again, reference to the exact model.

Just from looking at the pictures do you think I have a chance in hell to get everything to fit?

lsxRanger94

Here is what they look like in street rod frame.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...p-headers.html.

These are the sandersons with specs.
http://www.sandersonheaders.com/Sand...er-Header.html These are the smallest and tightest fitting. you may have to roll the frame a bit like gm did on many frames to get them to fit.

hooker cast iron swap headers are 24.81" at the widest point(collector flange) http://www.holley.com/data/products/...Dimensions.jpg I don't think this style will fit your driver side.

lsxRanger94

If you are going for all out performance the fenderwell exits are in your future. They are expensive to have built unless you are very handy with a welder and have great patience.

ctd450

iTrader: (1)

Cool project! My dad has a '52 Chevy, I tried getting him to put a 5.3 in it but he's old school and wants a carb and a 4-speed stick.

I built my first set of headers this weekend. Used a $99 Summit 1-3/4" header kit with 3" collectors, and Summit LS1 flanges. I have about 5 hours into each side but I still need to weld on the collectors. Figure about 7 or 8 hours total for each side.

Nobody makes longtube, large primary headers for my application (tube chassis rock buggy) so my only choice was to build my own. It was not hard, just time consuming. The instructions were helpful and the results were well worth the time. I've got about $200 into them with O2 bungs and v-band clamps. The only tools I used were my welder, a grinder, and a bandsaw.

lsxRanger94

What do you think it would have cost you to have them built since most shops are 80 to 100 bucks per hour? 800.00 to 1000.00?

ctd450

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I think that's about what my chassis builder quoted me when I asked him if he could build me a set.

I'm glad I built my own and would do it all over again if I had to. Some guys go crazy mocking them up with PVC pipe or expensive header lego's, I just bolted up the head flanges, tacked the collectors where I wanted them in the chassis and began connecting the dots.

DEEDDUDE

There are several of us doing these swaps currently. Do a search for the others, mine is at the bottom. Many good ideas from all. I built my own motor mounts from the crossmember. Looks like you need to remove the firewall flange on the inside at the rear of the motor for exhaust clearance. I used stock f-body exhaust manifolds. Shorties could work and block huggers may if you find the right source. The cheap ebay set hits the oil pan.

WCRiot

Thank you LSx Ranger for being specific. this is exactly what i needed.

Has anyone used the Summit Racing Block Hugger Headers to save some money?: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g9065/overview/

DEEDDUDE
I've checked out your build info before. The problem is all your stuff is custom fabricated so it's not a good reference for me to determine what parts to you and what not to use.
I'm going to test fit the factory cast manifold but from what i remember, it was way too big.

lsxRanger94

take a look at these. http://www.jegs.com/i/Hooker/520/231...Fa5DMgodwC8AwQ Either way, stock or headers looks like you will be trimming the fire wall a little on the inside corner by the frame or like deeddude if you are going to run fbody manifolds.

Leadfoot85

iTrader: (3)

As DEEDUDE said there are a couple of us on here with 49-54 Chevys doing the same swap. I personally didn't want to cut the firewall support so I am using Hooker's Block Hugger headers. They clear the frame just fine, but they do require you to get creative with the steering shaft. BTW, I used a TCI MII crossmember and Walton Fab motor mounts.

I'll see if I can take some pics of my set up today.

Here's my build: https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...-5-3-ls-3.html

WCRiot

I went ahead and ordered the Sanderson Block Hugger headers. No other companies provided dimensions for their manifolds but Sanderson did.

I test fit the stock mannifold and the passenger side would fit due to hitting the frame rail and firewall. Firewall i could trim but it was hitting too much of the frame to even bother.

Stock manifold would have hit the firewall but a little trimming and it would fit.

Does Walton have motor mounts for the 49-54 Chevy car with LS1 engine? He was going to work with me to develop a transmission crossmember kit to work with his motor mounts. My understanding was his motor moutns are for the SBC then you need adapters which is what i am doing now.

Are you using an aftermarket bracket for the accessories?
What gas tank is that you are using?

Leadfoot85

iTrader: (3)

Walton's mounts are made for SBC and I used some adapters I got off eBay. I also used his transmission crossmember and to make it work for the 4l60e you have to drill new mounting holes for the bracket that bolts to the transmission itself. Nothing major, and you still get the ease of being able to drop the trans easily.

I used the stock accessories and brackets with the exception of the A/C. I haven't decided what bracket I'm using yet...

I used the Tanks Inc. steel replacement tank. Same as Deedude and DoWork. Great tank for the price!

31-5window

I have been luking at tons of different swaps in 49-54 chevys for awhile. as Deedude & Leedfoot have said you have to be creative. the nice thing about these cars is that they have good height under the hood. I am doing a swap also in a 50 chevy I have built a few cars an it just gets costly to buy specialty parts to make everything fit. IMO its best to make use of all the OEM parts you can. many times aftermarket have failed so now my car is down because I have to order parts. maybe think about repositioning your motor a little so stock manifolds will fit. on my car I removed that front body mounts and repositioned it to the outside of the frame my truck manifolds work great. I pretty much made motor & trans mounts to make motor fit so all OEM accessories would work. any problems parts I need are easily found. something to think about that's all

WCRiot

Here are some pictures of the No Limit Engineering SBC motor mounts without the LS1 Adapters on. Walton thought that the NO Limit mounts were too low and would cause problems. I had to trim their width to allow the oil pan to fit inside and I might have to buy a different oil pan, but maybe not.

Would it be possible for you to measure your motor mount height for me?





Your idea of using the Walton trans crossmember is a good one. I didn't even consider that. I will call Walton and ask what he thinks to get some pointers.

Tanks Inc is a great company. I used one of their tanks for my 38 Ford that I swapped onto a Chevy S10 frame. I have the Camaro gas tank, but it might be a Pain in the *** to mount it and get it set right. I will fiddly with it and snap some pictures to get feedback from you guys.

WCRiot

So I am working with the Sanderson headers. the passenger side factory, ls manifold hits the firewall mounting location to the frame. I dont want to cut all this off just to fit the manifold.



So working with the Sanderson headers it looks like i need a third Heim joint or some sort of idlers bearing. I have seen large spherical bearings used but i don't know where to get them or how to go about it. I would like to know what you guys think.
I made a quick and cheesy picture to help demonstrate what i was considering. Red line= the cut i want to make. green lines show what i would like to route the column and approximately how i would install another joint.

Going to notch the frame and weld in a patch to get the column to spin at the best angle.


Thoughts and advice please?

lsxRanger94

Do you know the working angle of that u joint by the rack? you may be able to extend that u joint higher up to avoid cutting your frame. You can get your heim joint and mounting tab from anyone that carries Borgeson. I know Summit and Jeg's carry them and I bet there are some vendors on here that do too. It looks like the Sandersons work. Did you have to do anything to fit them or did they drop in?

lsxRanger94

Check this link out.

http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com/...ing_shaft.html

Yours look like it might be the second to last on pic 19.