GaryGarys

When I showed up at my friends house with my new-to-me 5 speed '95 525i the first time, he laughed and said, "who are you, Gordan Gecko?" and then started referring to the car as "Wall Street". In that spirit of excess, I intend to build this car. I'm swapping an L59 (iron block 5.3L LSX motor), T56 (GTO 6 speed trans) and a pair of turbos.

The L59 was chosen over the lighter LS1 for it's low price and robustness. My power goal is 700 hp to the wheels with a fat powerband. The Aluminum LS motors are prone to self destruction at the power level without being built where the iron block motors hold impossible amounts of power in stock form. (http://tinyurl.com/Truckin-Article)

So far the M50 and trans are out, and I have sectioned the cross members. I bought a mock up foam block for this project which has been super helpful already. I need to find a rack to swap in to replace the steering box and possibly convert the brake booster to a hydroboost setup as it looks like it is going to be in the way. More to come.

PICTURES
http://imgur.com/a/eRYpL

Badbob2121

Looks like a fun project, twins are going to make it insane!! In for watching progress

flynfrog

iTrader: (2)

nice im in the middle of the same swap.

What are you planning for the oil pan?

flynfrog

iTrader: (2)

for the rack I used on out of a caviler. Still some issues with the steering linkage.



I got some fiero tierod ends but they might be a hair long.

I switched to hydroboost out of an astro van

GaryGarys

I am running a GTO oil pan and I just cut out the cross members with intent to weld new ones in.

I ditched the GTO shifter and bought a Camaro one to get the motor and trans back about 3" further. It's close to the firewall and trans tunnel now, but will allow for much more space under the hood for the turbos and plumbing. I ordered a fast ratio rack for a Fox Body Mustang that I am going to work in there somehow. I was going to probably do spherical end links for the tie rod ends.

I also had to remove the brake booster as it was hitting the head and so I bought a Mustang hydrobooster that I am going to replace it with. The ABS motor will also have to be relocated. I spent most of the last few days researching so not much progress otherwise. http://imgur.com/a/eRYpL

mapleridge

This is going to be sweet. Wall Street. LOOOL.

GaryGarys

I finished up the the trans mount version 1.0. and started in on the cross member. Motor mounts should be sketched out tonight. I'm going to get more metal today.
http://imgur.com/a/eRYpL#EIu1V3B

flynfrog

iTrader: (2)

The truck pan clears the front crossmember. I went with a hydroboost from an astrovan. Ditching the ABS

Its tough to get the rack up high enough to make the bump steer not terrible.

They other option is to the bottom side of the knuckle if you have big enough wheels but ARB starts to get in the way too.

Also when you go to mount the rack keep in mind the steering shaft is on a rag joint and telescopes. I added another shaft that telescopes so it adds too many Degrees of freedom into the shaft. Im still sorting this easiest would be to weld up one of the telescoping parts and maybe add a busing to the column shaft. If you need to see anything on my let me know I can take pics.

GaryGarys

New Pictures: http://imgur.com/a/eRYpL

I tried a Fox Body Mustang rack as I had one accessible, the mounting points are huge and there was no way it was going to work. I bought a Mk IV Jetta rack and that is working out. It's as high, and as far forward as I could get it without having to modify the GTO oil pan. I don't think bump steer is going to be an issue with its current location. It was much wider than the BMW linkage so I had to section the outer tie rod ends. Also, the VW ball joints are larger so I had to ream out the mounting points on the car.

Next, I reinforced the places on the cross member where the rack mounts so I would have solid metal square to the rack.

The rag joint is a modified Mark IV Jetta one. If i did this over I would have used a Mark III Jetta rack as they have a boot that covers the shaft whereas the IV has a rubber gasket and the entire unit is behind the firewall. I welded bottom half of the BMW slip shaft to the top of the Jetta shaft after much measuring. I don't know how the Jetta bearing comes apart so I just submerged it in water while I welded the slip shaft so I wouldn't melt it. Then I shortened the VW slip joint by disassembling it and cutting crimping etc.

Next I made a bracket to mount the bearing to the frame rail. I cut all tabs and crap off the rails for this. The piece pictured was version 1, I am doing it over with slightly thicker metal and moving it forward a few mm as after I got the rack all mounted up it was a bit off.

I boxed the cross member and welded in a piece of 1" X 3". This is mostly finished now but I didn't picture it yet.

I bought a 03 Cobra booster and Master and will be making a new firewall bracket to mount that up.

More updates soon, I just got accessory brackets in and a bunch of other parts.

GaryGarys

Been away for a while and havent been updating.

With the help of Geoff from Full Race via Dave from F.A.S.T of West Chester, I decided on going single turbo with a 82mm Borg Warner S400

Sparkydog

Great build! Thanks for posting!

GaryGarys

GaryGarys

Car is running and driving now. I did a street tune, will post numbers whenever I make it to the dyno. Working out odds and ends now, but for the most part it is together.






This is a bluetooth to serial adapter I put in the computer so I don't have to plug the computer in.


I mounted everything in the original computer box, shown here are the fan controller, relays and stuff


So many wires


Gauge pod for the wideband and boost control ****


Flocked and installed


Fabbed up a driveshaft loop



I wanted to retain the low coolant overflow level sensor so I made a fitting for the BMW gauge





Gold heat shield on the inner fender


4" all the way back





I was melting the connectors on the coil packs so I made a heat shield for that side



Most importantly



Paint is up next


and a bluetooth reworking of this guy

Michael Yount

iTrader: (1)

Some nice work here! Confused though --- iron block 5.3L = 553i?

GaryGarys

Michael Yount

iTrader: (1)

I reckon you decided the alum block would be stout enough after all. Nice to not have that additional 75-85 lbs. on the front end -- helps offset all the boost gear.

Romulus22

Michael Yount

iTrader: (1)

G Atsma

I've heard it's about 85# difference between LS cast iron and LS aluminum blocks. LS cast iron blocks are bigger and bulkier than Ford 5.0 blocks

LSswap

It's not an M5. It's a GM5.

Enjoying the build!!