White Devil92

I am wanting to know how they drive on the street with a manual rack and a heavy 6.0. Any issues that I should know about?

streetlegalls1

iTrader: (15)

Use a 20:1 ratio anything less will be difficult to steer

krochus

iTrader: (1)

Use the actual stripper model slow ratio rack and they're just fine on a stock ish front tire. Mine It's only slightly heavy when turning the wheels completely stopped. The rest of the time you'd never notice.

But be aware you'll have to make a new steering shaft to go manual

LXguy

iTrader: (5)

The Maximum Motorsports unit is the one to get. The Flaming River is a serious PITA to deal with.

krochus

iTrader: (1)

You can make a shaft for less than $50 from your existing one

White Devil92

Thanks for the replies!

geoff17

My lq4 swapped fox was built for full street use and has ac and everything (more weight up front) and a turbo up front and I used the flaming river manual rack and flaming river steering shaft and you can barely tell its a manual steering car. Its a little tight when stopped but still not that bad at all. Everything went together very easily too in response to LXguy's comment on the flaming river steering shaft (not sure why you had problems?) was really easy for me.

Sleeperls

same geoff. I had no problems with the flaming river shaft.

Clean with brake clean and use red locktight.

LXguy

iTrader: (5)

The Flaming River shaft is functionally ok. I've literally been installing manual racks into mustangs for 15 years. I thought perhaps I would save someone the hassles associated with the Flaming River if possible.

The reason the Max Moto gets my vote 10 times out of 10 is because Flaming River uses allen head set screws and nuts (that frequently have to be ground down for header clearance, and make assembly and disassembly a PITA). The Max Motorsports unit doesn't have this inferior design. it also telescopes as needed rather than requiring you to loosen and tighten said jam nuts to lengthen, shorten, install or uninstall the shaft. As its welded instead of 'nutted' together, there's no chance of something backing out and the steering coming apart (though I admit I've never seen a flaming river come apart in regular usage). No loc-tite. No allen wrenches in tough to reach spaces.



Flaming River:


Fact is I will sell either one for about the same price, but I would probably charge more for a Flaming river shaft install. LOL

Yes, Krochus, pretty much like everything else, if you have the means, skills, and desire, you can make yourself a manual shaft for less than you can spend buying an aftermarket one. It probably won't be as elegant as that Maximum Motorsports piece.

My .02 for what its worth.

Steve

usdmholden

I've also have both the MM and the Flaming River shafts, and I would buy the MM again given the choice, unless the Flaming River was practically free.

geoff17

hmm thanks for the info on the different steering shafts. I never knew anything else was available and only new of the one option until now. The MM shaft does look to have a much better design, thanks for pointing that info out. FWIW though my flaming river shaft did install pretty easy though but I could see how the MM one would be even easier. However I have no longtubes to deal with in the way, my manifolds point backwards lol.

krochus

iTrader: (1)

Back on the subject of the manual rack.

IME it's one of the best moves a person can make towards simplifying the swap process with essentially no downside. MM, flaming river or universal joint welded to the bottom of your stock shaft any way you choose is full of WIN over the power rack

geoff17

+1 makes everything A LOT easier. No need to to try and source lines and pressure reducers and other weird fittings. Also saves room having no PS pump or reservoir. I've thought so many times how simple this swap would be with no power steering and no ac (Having AC made my swap a little harder than it could have been without)

krochus

iTrader: (1)

It makes things SUPER SIMPLE! As in you don't even need stock "LS" accessory brackets at all. I have the ford alternator bolted directly to my block and a OLD style Chevy alt bracket on top.

Makes a super clean look on the front of the motor although I must admit I would like to restore my AC later

White Devil92

Thanks guys, some good info in here.

zipster

iTrader: (5)

Are you going to buy a manual rack or modify the original one?

krochus

iTrader: (1)

An unassisted power rack IS NOT the same as a manual rack.

White Devil92

Going to just buy a manual rack. I'm leaning towards the mm rack. I was originally concerned with having to find the brackets, proper hoses and a reducer kit plus how hard it would be to turn then car with a heavy lq4 sitting over the rack. But, it seems a manual is the best solution as well as the cheapest.