Air intake
06-03-2014, 09:04 AM
#21
My cowl induction (factory air on a '39) is inside the car and would require a hole in the firewall. With A/C, wiring, electric operated vent, relays, A/C and defrost hoses ain't no room left there! Compaired to my 33 ****** the inside is like a mini-condo. Space and space where you need it are two different things.
06-03-2014, 10:42 AM
#22
Below is how I did mine, I did think about doing the double 90 or single 180 over the intake runners; but was able to squeeze this in. This fits with no room between the filter and inner fender, it seems to support it really well.
06-03-2014, 10:55 AM
#23
TECH Resident
My cowl vent is "electrified" as well, when I installed the A/C I had to remove the cowl vent mechanical lever so I installed a servo motor with limit switches and the operating switch is in the glovebox with the A/C controls. I could cut a hole in the firewall and make a cold air plenum if I wanted to do cowl induction. The only thing keeping me from doing that is that I want to keep the normal air intake noise out of the interior.
06-03-2014, 07:42 PM
#24
Got the hood on and everything in place now wondering if I can just put one of the S & P square filters up front. Got about 6" there for the MAF and filter. Would be sort of hot air catcher. Here is a picture of about where I was thinking of putting the cone filter. MAF would be just in front of it.
06-03-2014, 11:56 PM
#25
Putting the MAF next to the TB can cause problems with uneven flow across the MAF at part throttle.
Got the hood on and everything in place now wondering if I can just put one of the S & P square filters up front. Got about 6" there for the MAF and filter. Would be sort of hot air catcher. Here is a picture of about where I was thinking of putting the cone filter. MAF would be just in front of it.
06-04-2014, 10:00 AM
#26
TECH Resident
Hot air=high IAT but mine always ran ok. I installed those cold air ducts on each side of the grille to shove some cooler air into the air box... much better IAT readings.
06-12-2014, 01:51 PM
#27
It lives! Got an intake fabed and hooked everything up so that I could stamp out leaks and "first start" blues. It does set two codes, P0135 and P0155 which are the O2 sensors. Could it be it sets the code because I just run it for a very short time and they don't get to operating temp? Few loose ends under the car, then take it off jackstands and road test tomorrow.
06-12-2014, 02:41 PM
#28
I didn't like how my IAT climbed to 20-30 degrees higher than ambient if I ran the car hard, so I broke it out and relocated the temp sensor from the MAF to where my air filter is. Now IAT is unaffected by heatsoak. Car idles closer to commanded AFR now.
06-13-2014, 08:40 AM
#29
TECH Resident
I think I will end up pressing a bunch of louvers in my hood to help move air. My other option is remove the hood sides and just run the hood top (four piece hood). I really don't want to remove the hood sides.... that would mess up my stealth sleeper advantage. Most of these guys running around the streets these days always assume they can blow the doors off "an old Junker hot rod".
06-13-2014, 10:32 AM
#30
Here are before and after pictures of my Air Intake. My IAT readings were way high. I found the nice Air Box and associated components from Spectre (http://www.spectreperformance.com/) and routed flexible tubing out into my fender well and then down to the lower cooling air scoop. Somewhat reminiscent of the Olds 442 Ram Air. (No water puddle crashing for me!) Perhaps someday I will fabricate some nice tubing to get rid of the flex hose, but this works great now. It really made a performance difference with the colder air coming in.
06-13-2014, 05:27 PM
#33
Street & Performance makes a nice air filter, maf combo in 2" 4" 6" filter combos, I have one in my 66 GTO and haven't had any problems, although I have heard having the maf too close to the throttle body isn't ideal.
06-16-2014, 01:51 PM
#37
TECH Resident
First mock up This is the first mock up of the stock throttle body on the Victor Jr. I think it will work out well. My tuner-guy with the racing laptop already put in a speed density tune so when it's ready to fire I won't have any problems. Once I'm drivable we'll install a wide band and he will give it a final tune. He is really experienced and feels that this conversion is going to make a huge difference.
This fixes my "elephant trunk" and air cleaner problem.
This fixes my "elephant trunk" and air cleaner problem.
06-16-2014, 04:18 PM
#39
TECH Resident
Map? Yes this is the stock cable-type 1998 LS throttle body, the MAP will be on the right side of the intake where Edelbrock put a hole with 1/8" pipe thread in it. The sensor will be right under the plate adapter, should get a clean vacuum signal there.
Downside?? I can't really think of too many negatives doing this intake. in my old setup the airflow was a disaster, the airflow was very restricted and with the snorkel pipes almost touching the radiator...got VERY hot, all the time. The throttle body was always just scorching hot. As long as I can keep under hood temperatures down I'm convinced it's going to make more power.
Downside?? I can't really think of too many negatives doing this intake. in my old setup the airflow was a disaster, the airflow was very restricted and with the snorkel pipes almost touching the radiator...got VERY hot, all the time. The throttle body was always just scorching hot. As long as I can keep under hood temperatures down I'm convinced it's going to make more power.
