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That's is still a pricey ticket but if your goals are around the 700whp it works fine if the budget allows problem is everyone needs more and that SC system GM or Edelbrock seems to run out of steam at around 800hp which dont get me wrong is plenty on the street but in the end everyone will want more HP which means losing the SC and or adding other things making the cost even higher than it could have been you just have to know what your limits are right out the gate!
I'll measure and compare the M/T 305/35-18 and the M/T 315/35-17. The 315/35-17 is currently on the car and I have it pretty low. Tires inside the fender and sitting almost an inch up there. I did a full frame notch and moved the wheel wells in a little.
I get some flack for using a low mile GN, but I really wanted a good starting point that was unmolested, rust free and just new. I figured if I bought one with 70-90k miles, I would be doing so many other little projects to get it mint that it would end up costing about the same in the end.
I have been asked about the mounting, firewall clearance and oil pan clearance.
Here are some measurements and pictures.
Pass side head is 3/4" from firewall. CTS-V oil pan sits 1/2" below crossmember, but the DSE frame stiffeners are lower then the oil pan.
I used the Spohn adaptor plates with F-body engine mounts.
Turbo side started!
Finished at Nicks shop and delivered her running to Rob at Forced Induction Tuning last Tuesday. We decided that the best fit and look was going to be smaller twin turbos.
Should see some progress this next week. I'll get some pics.
Turbo side started!
Finished at Nicks shop and delivered her running to Rob at Forced Induction Tuning last Tuesday. We decided that the best fit and look was going to be smaller twin turbos.
Should see some progress this next week. I'll get some pics.
Yes sir. The plan from the beginning was to use the LSA as the base for the turbos. The forged crank, piston squirters, Roto cast heads, and boost rods make for a great foundation to support about 850rwhp.
We have been going back and forth with either one or two turbos, but the advantages of twins(if doable) are huge for a street machine(not drag car launching as high rpm where boost on a single huge turbo is easy). Faster spool and allows the super charger to suck in air easier in lower rpm range. After getting the car to the shop last Tuesday, we had to play around with some single and twin turbo's to determine placement. We came to the conclusion that twins would look and fit great!
Forced Induction Tuning has been doing this to the Cadillac CTS-V for a few years with great results. I wanted a GN that idles like glass, but have fun when I want.
So twins with water-to-air intercoolers. One for the supercharger and on for the twins.
Correct, more heat.
Some people speed up the supercharger using a smaller pulley, but that is more heat with no additional cooling and max aprox 100-150hp additional without a cam to mate it with. To overcome the heat issues we use water-to-air intercoolers. Air-to-air intercoolers are 1/2 as efficient as water-to-air. One intercooler for the supercharger running with a stock pulley and one intercooler for the twins. Forgot to mention that she runs on E-85 which is plentiful in my area. She never gets warm.
I'm not sure of the specific model of the twins as of yet. I'll be back over there this next week. He said twin 57mm flow plenty to let the supercharger do its thing at low RPM and spool very fast. He has done many twins on LSA engines and dyno's, dyno's, dyno's in house. He says he has tried other sizes, but the twin 57mm has proven themselves.
I'll have pics in another week. He jigs up the turbo's in the engine bay and then starts the hot side plumbing.
WOW - thumbs up for an amazing build... twin turbos and a supercharger.... a whole other level
Kind of like the old Detroit Diesel two strokes: turbo before supercharger and then after cooler
09-05-2014, 02:55 AM
