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Hooker sells slip on collectors with nice clamps. They also give you the most ground clearance. The flanged or ball & socket type tend to drag on speed bumps & high spots in the road. I used to order nice premade stainless lines made for a first gen, but the company closed. On the 67 bird I just finished, I had AN fittings brazed onto new stainless first gen fuel lines. From these I had braided lines made 1) from motor to fuel line 2) from the end of the fuel line to a C5 fuel filter/regulator 3) & 4) from the C5 filter to the tank (feed & return) You can use a piece of old hose for measurements & cut to length so you can bring them to whoever builds the lines. You could have used the GTO front acc but the holley is nice as well. If you need lines for the pump to rack & pinion, same shop can probably make them for you too. I think I have a pic of the header flanges from my build pics. Her's a couple of the fuel lines. Not great pics but might help you out. For the air intake I used the airaid complete kit with filter- see last pic. You may need more couplers & clamps, but its very simple. I'll post a link to the build if I can figure out how to share my snapfish. I may need your email. Keep the pics coming!! Scott
Hooker sells slip on collectors with nice clamps. They also give you the most ground clearance. The flanged or ball & socket type tend to drag on speed bumps & high spots in the road. I used to order nice premade stainless lines made for a first gen, but the company closed. On the 67 bird I just finished, I had AN fittings brazed onto new stainless first gen fuel lines. From these I had braided lines made 1) from motor to fuel line 2) from the end of the fuel line to a C5 fuel filter/regulator 3) & 4) from the C5 filter to the tank (feed & return) You can use a piece of old hose for measurements & cut to length so you can bring them to whoever builds the lines. You could have used the GTO front acc but the holley is nice as well. If you need lines for the pump to rack & pinion, same shop can probably make them for you too. I think I have a pic of the header flanges from my build pics. Her's a couple of the fuel lines. Not great pics but might help you out. For the air intake I used the airaid complete kit with filter- see last pic. You may need more couplers & clamps, but its very simple. I'll post a link to the build if I can figure out how to share my snapfish. I may need your email. Keep the pics coming!! Scott
Hey Scott - this is all great information and I really appreciate it. The pics help too.
Whit your cold air intakes, did you make them yourself or did you re-purpose another application? The reason i ask is because yours looks nice and clean which is the look I am going for.
Got back at it over the last couple of weekends and managed to get some things done. Here are some of my results.
Exhaust - bought the Hooker first gen Fbody setup which worked installed great until I got to the rear axle. Totally my fault as I didn't consider how much different the Heidts four link would be compared to the original equip. Problem is the pipes that go over the axle hit the coil overs and other items. I might just terminate the exhaust at the mufflers or have my local muffler shop build the rest. I have seen others end at the mufflers...
Brakes - all lines are run but I still need to address two things; emergency brake cables and a smaller power brake booster. The first will require some research since the new rear has aftermarket brakes and locations. The brake booster is just going to be replaced with a 7 inch booster to clear up some room for coil covers in the future. still up in the air on which covers to go with.
Big things left to purchase:
Wheels and tires - still no clue. don't know what offset or rim width to go with.
Driveshaft - don't know if I will go new or have the old one shortened. Anyone work with driveshaft places in Chicago or southwest suburbs they would recommend?
Battery - no idea on location
ECM - again, no idea where to move it
Managed to get some things done the last few months/weeks...
Mounted the ECM on the passenger side kick panel
Wired the majority of engine bay
Dash is wired up but needs some tweaking to the Fuel sender/gauge, Oil Pressure and setup the Tach
Batter placed in stock location
CAI mocked up with LS3 MAF
CAM installed
New driveshaft
Started the CAR!!!!! Runs good but still need to sort some things out:
Need to terminate the Steam Vent ports from the heads to the radiator. Had it capped (not tight enough) but the cap popped off when the car got to temp. No big deal just some mess to clean up.
Definitely needs a tune since we have made some changes since getting the ECM flashed.
and of course, a ton or little things.[/LIST]
It is amazing how pumped up you get hearing the car start for the first time and how energized your build gets.
Managed to get some things done the last few months/weeks...
Mounted the ECM on the passenger side kick panel
Wired the majority of engine bay
Dash is wired up but needs some tweaking to the Fuel sender/gauge, Oil Pressure and setup the Tach
Batter placed in stock location
CAI mocked up with LS3 MAF
CAM installed
New driveshaft
Started the CAR!!!!! Runs good but still need to sort some things out:
Need to terminate the Steam Vent ports from the heads to the radiator. Had it capped (not tight enough) but the cap popped off when the car got to temp. No big deal just some mess to clean up.
Definitely needs a tune since we have made some changes since getting the ECM flashed.
and of course, a ton or little things.[/LIST]
It is amazing how pumped up you get hearing the car start for the first time and how energized your build gets.
-MZ
Congrats on getting the car started! I know the feeling
Question on the steam vents- is there a reason you don't run them up to the radiator (or into a fitting in the radiator hose)?
Congrats on getting the car started! I know the feeling
Question on the steam vents- is there a reason you don't run them up to the radiator (or into a fitting in the radiator hose)?
More just a bonehead move on my part. I was going to use the available port on the radiator for the temp gauge for the fan relay. Going to change that and use it for the steam vent hose. Although I do like the cars I've seen using the adapter into the radiator hose.
More just a bonehead move on my part. I was going to use the available port on the radiator for the temp gauge for the fan relay. Going to change that and use it for the steam vent hose. Although I do like the cars I've seen using the adapter into the radiator hose.
I used the extra port on my radiator for my steam venting. 2100 miles so far so good. "Jags that run" is one place that sells radiator hose sleeves with NPT tapped holes for this if you decide you want one.
Ended up doing the same things as and terminated the steam vent to the radiator. Ran the car for a while until it came up to team and made sure there were no leaks. Of course I will have to check once there is a real load on the car but I think it should be Ok.
Switched the two pin temp sensor unit for the three pin. Now I have a working Autometer gauge for water temp even though it seems to be off by -15 degrees.
Also got the electric fans to kick on using the proper relay and signal lead from the ECM.
Reduced the power steering pump pressure going into the mustang II rack.
I have started the car quite a few times to get it to temp to test things out and it has run great. It does run a bit rich but I imagine that's because my ECM tune is just a baseline/stock tune for an LS2. Since having the ECM tuned and VATS removed, I have added an LS3 maf, long tube headers and a cam. The one thing that did happen this weekend is the car started running very rough and kicked out a P0336 CKP code. As the car had been running well for the last few weeks, I am at a loss for what would make that happen.
Hello All,
have made some good progress over the last few months and feel like I am in the home stretch! I know they say this is when most of the works is done and I can definitely see why...
Feels good to know that I am almost done ordering parts. For the exception of the wheels and tires, I do not have many major part purchases left.
Things still left to do:
• Interior
o Headliner – mocked and centered but still have a ton to do. What a pain!
o Audio – have to finish dropping the wires to the kick panels since I bought kicks with speakers. Have all the other audio equipment ready to go in but need to create a bracket since previous owner cut our radio bracket
o Kick panels – since I installed the Vintage Air setup and mounted the ECM in the kick panel area, I will need to modify the panels and remove the vents.
o Carpet – Once the stuff above is done, I can install the carpet
o Seats – purchased but need to be installed after carpet
• Exterior
o Panels – lined up nicely and most of the body work done.
o Paint – still picking out a color but a long way to go before I have to worry about it!
o Wheels – narrowed it down to three types of rims; Foose Knuckles, US Mag U111 and Boss 338. Thinking of going with a 18*8 in front and 18*9 or 9.5 in the back.
• Wiring
o Lighting Front – went with an upgraded setup with HID’s and LED’s but definitely very tame. Since these are more modern, and have balasts with relays, I have to find a way to mount all of this. Mocked up for now but still want to clean up and shorten wires.
o Lighting Rear – again, went with a more modern setup of LED’s. This is done and I think they look pretty cool – of course, this is personal opinion and might not be everyone’s cup of tea!
Here she is!
3/4 view of the passenger side with my old GN rims and headliner hanging
08-16-2014, 11:16 AM
