kainedogg

iTrader: (23)

Is there a fuse or relay that controls the top? If so where is it located. Top was working great then stopped. So I am hoping it's the switch or fuse. Either way I want to run a proper diagnosis.

oldgoat69

Track back from the dash switch to the junction block. Make sure you have power to both sides of the switch. Take a look at this fuse block. It is a 68 GTO, but I am pretty sure all of the A-bodies are set up the same way. http://www.gtoforum.com/f50/68-gto-fuse-block-23642/

71403

The top switch is fed from a circuit breaker mounted on the firewall between the fender and brake booster. If it's still there has a rubber cover over the studs. That is usually fed from the junction stud on the horn relay. No relays for the top motor.

Most of the time the fault is switch itself since it has to carry all the current for the top motor and really isn't up to task. Once you get it working if your switch is good retrofit relays into the circuit so the $$ switch doesn't die in the future.

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

If you did anything near the wiring under the dash you may have pulled the connector off the switch; I did on mine last year. The connector is like the power windows which don't have anything to really lock the switch on. Try reaching under the dash and pushing on the connector as hard as you can and operate the switch with your other hand--maybe you'll get lucky.

kainedogg

iTrader: (23)

Thanks bro. Tried that to no avail.

I shudder to ask what that switch costs.


Thanks brother. I replaced all the glass fuses so it might be the switch. After this summer. I am pulling the motor, trans and wiring. EZ wiring and 5.3/4l60e.

kainedogg

iTrader: (23)

Now how do I test the switch and where do I get a "new" one.

kainedogg

iTrader: (23)

Somebody has to be topless

71403

I don't have diagram handy but it's 3x 12ga wires to the switch. One is power from the battery thru circuit breaker the other two go to the top pump. From memory the motor leads are grey and purple. Check for +12 at one of the wires, should be center pin, if found then back probe with a test light the other wires while actuating the switch. May be easier to have a helper use the light at the pump connector while you work the switch since it's tight behind the dash. Check the ground at the pump too.

Repro houses have the switch. Some leave the dead switch for cosmetics and put a hidden switch or pushbuttons under the dash. Either fix needs relays.

oldgoat69

Go back under the dash, you should see a single connector. It may have all 3 wires or in some I have seen just the main 12v in. Make sure it is still connected. I am 400 miles away from the car right now or I would get you a picture.

kainedogg

iTrader: (23)

I like the Relay and switch idea. Do I need 2 relays because of the high amperage or one for each side of the motor that feeds different polarity?

I have 3 wires. I will use a test light to see which one is hot.

71403

One for each side is the easiest configuration with standard relays.

This should give you what you need

http://members.shaw.ca/timcr/elec.html

I did mine years ago with the classic Bosch "ice cube" relays and haven't had a problem since.

kainedogg

iTrader: (23)

Thanks brother. I happened to lose the original switch as well so you know I am just up ****'s creek.