Yet another G-Body fuel question......
#1
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Yet another G-Body fuel question......
I've searched so much my head is spinning. '98 returnless fuel rail LS1 into a '78 malibu. The Corvette regulator is on its way and I have the tank from Spectra Premium/Cooling Depot. All I need now is the fuel pump assembly, fittings, and lines to make it work. I'm not interested in rubber hoses and clamps because I want a secure fit.
This is what I'm looking at.....
http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.a...S-G7AN&eq=&Tp=
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-640940/overview/ (From the pump to the regulator)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-640930/overview/ (Regulator to return line)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ru...FbFDMgodIVwAKg (rail to fuel line)
I know I have to solve the connection to a factory '78 fuel line but I'm unsure how to do it? (new line?) My main question is what are the reviews on this type of sender assembly from racetronix? If it matters.... I do have an F-Body tank with the sending unit/fuel pump assembly that I can scavenge parts from.
This is what I'm looking at.....
http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.a...S-G7AN&eq=&Tp=
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-640940/overview/ (From the pump to the regulator)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-640930/overview/ (Regulator to return line)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ru...FbFDMgodIVwAKg (rail to fuel line)
I know I have to solve the connection to a factory '78 fuel line but I'm unsure how to do it? (new line?) My main question is what are the reviews on this type of sender assembly from racetronix? If it matters.... I do have an F-Body tank with the sending unit/fuel pump assembly that I can scavenge parts from.
Last edited by 78LS1bu; 07-19-2014 at 06:05 PM.
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I ran that sending unit with the 340 walbro pump all together and seems to be a nice setup . Havent driven mine yet so I cant give you anything more than that but I like it for what I have seen so far. Also, mine is mounted in a GN gas tank....
This is what I used to reduce the -8 to a -6 AN fitting off the sender
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220122-b
And I used this to mount on the fuel rail off the intake so than all you need is whatever degree fitting (straight, 45, 90, swivel, etc) to run your lines.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-644123
This is what I used to reduce the -8 to a -6 AN fitting off the sender
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220122-b
And I used this to mount on the fuel rail off the intake so than all you need is whatever degree fitting (straight, 45, 90, swivel, etc) to run your lines.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-644123
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78LS1bu, DO NOT USE the Russell 644000 fitting. There have been numerous problems with them popping off the line which could lead to disaster. I returned everyone that I had to Summit which they were not to happy with. I was being given a hard time and did have to ask for a supervisor and explained to her that this fitting is a safety hazard. She agreed to give me my money back. Probably to avoid a potential law suit. Use the fitting that Jason used which is the Russell 644123. This is MUCH safer and once you push the line in tight you turn that U shaped lock. If done properly this should not come off. Better to be safe than sorry. Rich
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Currently using that sending unit in my Cutlass with a GN tank, walbro 255 pump and hotwire kit. It's perfect and I love having nothing but AN fittings in my fuel system. This is the actual Racetronix sender/pump I'm using. http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.a...W255AN&eq=&Tp=
I agree with everyone else, DO NOT use the push fitting. I used the 644123 fitting and really like the way it secures to the fuel rail with a screw-on retaining plate.
I agree with everyone else, DO NOT use the push fitting. I used the 644123 fitting and really like the way it secures to the fuel rail with a screw-on retaining plate.
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Thanks for the input. I went with the 64423 and 644113 fittings along with the racetronix assembly. I'm guessing a tube sleeve and nut would be the best solution for the hard lines.
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#8
Tube nut ans sleeve are great for putting AN lines on teh hard line, BUT you need to flare them to 37 deg. Beware of cheep 37 deg flare tools, the wont hold the line and youll spend nothing but time Fing with it to fail. A good tool is 100 and change, I picked up a rigid for $115, worth every penny. Clean no fuss flares easy peasy.
I just did this on my B-body, I ran all new lines (what a PITA) My tank replacement has quick disconnect, I used the threaded russel fittings, AN front to back. Once you start connecting things it make it easier. That sender is a good deal. Also FYI use flexible lines to connect the tank to the lines, You dont want a rigid line where your going from the body to the frame and vice versa. The flex from the body moving on the frame can stress hard lines and fittings.
I just did this on my B-body, I ran all new lines (what a PITA) My tank replacement has quick disconnect, I used the threaded russel fittings, AN front to back. Once you start connecting things it make it easier. That sender is a good deal. Also FYI use flexible lines to connect the tank to the lines, You dont want a rigid line where your going from the body to the frame and vice versa. The flex from the body moving on the frame can stress hard lines and fittings.
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Fuel rail fittings
As I was putting the engine in my '39 I noticed the fuel line fittings didn't give a crisp snap and I was able to pull one apart. After playing with them for a while I finally got them to lock on but did not feel good about it. After installing the engine I went back and lockwired them on. Think that will prevent a line from backing off? I do have several of the OEM fittings that I cut the plastic line off and could use those with fuel injection hose and clamps.