ItsJustDanny

Hi guys, new to the forums but I've been lurking through here for quite some time seeing what guys have done and getting ideas. I always wanted to do an LSx swap on a car, seems like it's a drop-in swap nowadays and it's really easy to do, even for someone that doesn't have much experience with swaps (I'm kind of in between there, I have some mechanical experience, but haven't taken on any big projects. Figured this can be my first step.)

I've owned a rusty and trusty (for the most part) '81 Chevy Camaro for a while already with a 350SB and what I'm guessing is a TH350 trans. It's getting kinda worn out already, burning oil, horrible gas mileage, etc. I haven't done much besides replacement brake lines front to back, new drums/hardware on the rear, calipers/pads/rotors on the front and master cylinder/prop valve. That's just about it.

I really want to freshen it up and put some life back into it, but can't really go out and spend all this cash on it (as much as I'd want to at least) because I have other priorities and need this car to be running. Sooo... I notice a good amount of guys using budget motors like the 5.3 and 6.0 from junkyard specials, seems like that would be a good way to go for me.

I already have somewhat of an idea on what I need/want:
~Engine- 5.3 LM7
~Trans - 4L60E
~Oil Pan - LS1 seems to be the better choice from what I've seen
~Swap mounts - Seen a few use Car Shop with setback plates, a few others have homemade mounts and other use eBay mounts. I can probably figure out which is best for my set up
~Driveshaft - Same situation as above I guess
~Wiring harness - Came across LT1swap.com and already have an idea of what to do with the harness.

Now I really want this to be as much of a budget build as I can get, as well as something I can get done within a week as soon as I get everything I need to do so. I also want to keep it fuel injected, don't want to deal with a carb anymore lol

Now my questions/concerns are:
1) Do I really need to change the front end accessory drive set up if I keep the truck manifold, alternator, and P/S? I really don't care for AC honestly. Would there be clearance issues with the hood and everywhere else in between? Seems like there's a lot of space in there to clear the front acc. drive but what do I know lol

2) Do I need to disable the VATS in order to get the engine to work?

3) Would it be better to run an inline fuel pump or get the spectra tank for the fuel system?

4) Any other expenses/costs to keep in mind so I won't get too surprised when I come across one?

A coworker knows a guy that has a running junkyard 5.3 with ecu/harness as well as a 4L60E for sale for $450 if I remember correctly. And another coworker offered me a TH350 that's been rebuilt just sitting around in his garage for $200 just to get rid of it so that's an option too, I guess.

I wanna say my budget is at around $1,500 give or take a few hundred.

Is this doable guys? Or am I in way over my head and should consider just forgetting the whole swap idea?

AND I also do not know how to weld so I can't fabricate my own parts. I will want to learn how to do that eventually though

lsxRanger94

1)No
2)yes
3)In tank pump will last longer and less issues(incorrect mounting, overheating, etc), but either will work if installed correctly.
4) possible cross member mod depending on pan used. Modified shifter for 4 speed trans or new shifter. Harness mod or new aftermarket harness. Headers or manifolds(modified or fbody). Maybe Ls1 style intake depending on hood used. This is just a starter list depending on changes you make to stock set up.

I'd say bump your budget up to at least 2500 unless you are good at bartering services and parts in your area.

lsxRanger94

It's all the little things that and up. 100 dollars here 100 dollars there. And be careful of the "while I'm at it. I might as well do this". stick to your budget and get it running and driving first.

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

With not a lot of experience, a $1500 budget and a week time schedule, id say youre in a little over your head. I too would say you need to wait a little and save some more cash before tearing into a drivable car and making it inoperable. Maybe save up and buy a cheap car to run around in and take your time with the sswap, otherwise your time limit is going to end up costing you more to get it done.

reedld

iTrader: (7)

First welcome! Im not an expert...but I do have some good knowledge in this area.

First off..I love my LS1/4L60E- I wouldn't even consider keeping or using a TH350. Go 4 spd auto.

I don't want to get banned..especially on LS1tech...but if money is tight, have you considered a LT1/4L60E swap? lots of the problems you will run into are not there with the LT1. Oil pan, engine mounts, and most of the accessories work AS IS. The LT1 is a good engine and most people are passing on them to go with the latest LSx...this brings the price down for them. The LT1 is a 4 bolt main, roller drivetrain, aluminum head (except for b body), fuel injected engine. They are not boat anchors...

1. Ive seen some people use the truck stuff ...there are brackets out there that help but add to the cost. The truck manifold, not the best looking item, works quite well..in fact some say it flows better than the LS1 intake (low end torque).

2. Vats- yes..unless you keep the engine carburated via the edelbrock system. this system costs ~$600-$700. It comes with an aluminum intake and a controller box. this way you do not need to deal with the PCM.

3. Fuel system- do what I did. get a vetteworks.com LS1 fuel bucket adapter and put it in your stock tank. Im using a LS1 F body fuel bucket pump setup. I spent less than $250...that includes vettework adapter, NEW tank, used fuel bucket, new fuel pump (for piece of mind), and some welding work from a friend. I had the pump recessed down in so it did not hit my trunk. 3000 miles- no issues...I've even run it down to less than 1/8 tank with no issues.

4. I think it's going to be hard for you to do this on your budget. not impossible...it will take more time and money. I bought my car mostly done. It was possibly the very first f body done using BRP hotrods kit. My engine is set forward just enough so all the stock f body accessories clear...no notching. draw back is...stock f body pan hit crossmember. I bought my car with the LH8 pan. Fits well BUT do not use it. It hangs too low. I pulled my engine after I bought the car and swapped out a modified f body pan (notched back part of pan, lengthened the pickup tube). The CTSV pan works but hangs just a bit below the crossmember. All of the LS stuff is pricey...it's come down a lot over the years...but still will break your budget!

best of luck! keep reading and researching!

2nd Gen Fl 'bird

iTrader: (13)

Collect your parts first! Find a truck 5.3/4L60E complete package. Install and get it running as is. Research your fuel tank options. Inline pump will get you going with Corvette regulator/return. Not optimum but, you can drive it at least. Upgrade your systems as you see fit and money allows. Like said earlier, don't get caught up in "might as well, it's apart". It will take an eternity to get completed and money will get thin. Been down that road already......but, no more. Just my opinions. Good luck with project!

lsxRanger94

Take a look at this for your timeline.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...ing-daily.html

It took two guys working on this a week to finish. If you didn't have to go to work, that timeline might be realistic. But like most people I'm sure you have a job, which will limit you to after work thrashing and no sleep. NO FUN. Most accomplish their swaps in 1-2 months with work allowing, some have done it faster.

silverbulletman

Umm , first off power steering , have you considered a s10 manual box on it, its as easy or easier then the power box , that would leave you with a water pump and custom alternator bracket. I used the f body pan , will fit without mods but I did mod my cross member a little bit, great fit though. Truck pan was too deep ! Built my own mounts but there are good ones on the market. I agree, use a inline pump to get it rolling . but in the end expect the unexpected. But dive in and get started itll b a fun project.

his is all I did for a alternator setup

71monte-carlo

uh, i'd go carb. silver, where is this build posted, i need more!!!

silverbulletman

I actually never did a build thread but do have step by step pics to some extent , maybe I'll start one.
As far as ignition you can't beat the msd , a few plug ins , five or so wires and running . Anything your not sure of or more pics let me know

Adam123

iTrader: (1)

Build your own engine mounts and slide the engine closer to the firewall. It will allow the engine to set without notching the subframe for oil pan clearance. Use the 4sp 60/80e. You can reuse the factory trans cross member but you have to drill new holes. Drive shaft will have to be shortened. Use Tanksinc.com weld in fuel pump set up. Truck intakes can fit, they have a built in fuel pressure regulator. Buy 3/8 fuel line. Metal is cheaper. Rewire the harness or buy one from a vendor. The truck accessory drive will fit. Idk about the truck manifolds, you could possibly use those but regardless you can find cheap manifolds or headers on ebay. Speed Hut makes killer gauges but they're not cheap. You'll need to figure out how to get the speedometer to work with the factory gauges. There is a converter box out there just for that. 4" aluminum tubing works gr8 for intake, they aren't to high on ebay and you can use a cone style filter on them. You may want to check into hp tuners or efi live because you'll likely decide to do cam andother upgrades in the future. Best of luck