1968 Javelin LS Swap Commencing
11-01-2014, 07:21 PM
#21
I started tearing into the harness today. I am going to mount the computer in the car to avoid moisture issues. While I am messing with the harness should I change the injector connectors to a different style than the lq4 truck injector connectors? Some of my harness was cut when it was removed from the truck so i will be asking some wiring and connector questions as I go.
I have cleaned the valve covers a bit. Gonna start buffing the really rusty block for paint soon. Any suggestions there? I hope to have this car rolling by May 1.
I have cleaned the valve covers a bit. Gonna start buffing the really rusty block for paint soon. Any suggestions there? I hope to have this car rolling by May 1.
11-02-2014, 07:57 AM
#23
Thanks for that info Gary. I would not have went that direction with the oil cooler lines. I am going to try to keep the truck pan and intake without modification. I had purchased front coil springs from ESPO and I am convinced they aren't the correct ones as the car sits fairly high in the front. I can live with the odd ride height for the time being if it will save me a few dollars on an oil pan. I have some interest in the shortblock and trans I am selling so I am hoping that will give me a nice boost for tracking down parts needed for this swap such as the T-56, clutch set-up and I am sure the exhaust is going to take some time to figure out.
11-02-2014, 08:45 AM
#24
If you need the bypass fitting, I would recommend getting one for a C5 corvette from a GM dealer. They're under $20 and have a threaded boss for an oil pressure/temp sensor.
The truck pan is really deep. The LH8 "Muscle car" pan only takes a little off that (~3/4"), so it's usually not worth the effort.
The CTS-V pan is a couple inches shorter but the sump a bit larger and can be found cheap on ebay.
Oh yeah, If you haven't got the MAF, they're expensive.
The truck pan is really deep. The LH8 "Muscle car" pan only takes a little off that (~3/4"), so it's usually not worth the effort.
The CTS-V pan is a couple inches shorter but the sump a bit larger and can be found cheap on ebay.
Oh yeah, If you haven't got the MAF, they're expensive.
Thanks for that info Gary. I would not have went that direction with the oil cooler lines. I am going to try to keep the truck pan and intake without modification. I had purchased front coil springs from ESPO and I am convinced they aren't the correct ones as the car sits fairly high in the front. I can live with the odd ride height for the time being if it will save me a few dollars on an oil pan. I have some interest in the shortblock and trans I am selling so I am hoping that will give me a nice boost for tracking down parts needed for this swap such as the T-56, clutch set-up and I am sure the exhaust is going to take some time to figure out.
09-07-2015, 09:01 AM
#28
Due to work and some family issues, progress has been minimal. I tracked down a t56 and some other misc parts to get moving again. After fussing with the front end of the car i have pretty much decided to go freak ride independent front suspension in the car. Trunnions are worn out again and had minimal mileage on them. I am looking for a chassis shop to set up the driveline to avoid angle issues and make sure drivebility is great. I will post some more pictures once I make some real progress.
10-08-2018, 10:19 PM
#30
TECH Senior Member
NICE! Whose suspension are you using in front? That was a weak point on AMC cars.
10-09-2018, 05:36 PM
#31
The front suspension is from Freak Ride Suspensions. It is there independent front suspension kit with power steering. It installed fairly easily. I will also be installing there coil over rear suspension. I am hoping that this car will handle fairly well when it is all together.
10-09-2018, 05:45 PM
#32
TECH Senior Member
The front suspension is from Freak Ride Suspensions. It is there independent front suspension kit with power steering. It installed fairly easily. I will also be installing there coil over rear suspension. I am hoping that this car will handle fairly well when it is all together.
I've always liked the Javelin and AMX body lines, with the advantage to the Javelin looking more "organic" with a natural flow.
10-24-2018, 07:39 AM
#38
???? You can't see how to fab mounts that work with those two big mount locations sticking up off the crossmember? Hmmm.....
Size the bushings (rubber or poly) and sleeves to go in the crossmember mounts; set the engine in place and mock up plates with tabs where the holes in the tabs line up with the holes in the bushings/sleeves. Put a long bolt through the tabs/bushing sleeve.
Size the bushings (rubber or poly) and sleeves to go in the crossmember mounts; set the engine in place and mock up plates with tabs where the holes in the tabs line up with the holes in the bushings/sleeves. Put a long bolt through the tabs/bushing sleeve.
10-24-2018, 05:47 PM
#39
Well l jumped the gun with my previous post. The cradle manufacturer (cradle is for an AMC) sent a bunch of hardware for fabricating the necessary mounts. I was looking for off the shelf stuff that could be modified but the pieces I have should make this very easy. Thank you for the replies.
Larry
Larry