Wiring question, no power to some fuses
#1
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
Wiring question, no power to some fuses
Hi all
I have a 2005 GTO lS2 in my swap, along with the complete body harness to run the interior stuff, headlights, tail lights, etc. I don't seem to have any power at all at the ACCESSORY fuse in the fuse box, and I also can't get the radio to power on. Everything else seems to have power, so I am really confused. I checked all the fuses and none are popped.
I do not have a Body Control Module. Could this be the issue? And if so, is there a way to just bypass it?
I have a 2005 GTO lS2 in my swap, along with the complete body harness to run the interior stuff, headlights, tail lights, etc. I don't seem to have any power at all at the ACCESSORY fuse in the fuse box, and I also can't get the radio to power on. Everything else seems to have power, so I am really confused. I checked all the fuses and none are popped.
I do not have a Body Control Module. Could this be the issue? And if so, is there a way to just bypass it?
#2
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (1)
Fuse power
Not knowing where your body harness came from I can only offer general statements. A fuse panel normally gets its power from three sources:Battery, Ignition and Accessories. The battery feed in one form or another comes from the battery and provides power to the fuse panel all the time, even with the key off. A hot wire will also feed the ignition switch. When the key is turned to the accessory position battery feed is directed to certain circuits on the fuse panel. I believe here is where your problem is. For some reason battery power is not being directed to the fuse panel when in the accessory position. Of course when the key is in the ignition position power is directed to both acc. and ign sections of the fuse panel. I would trace the battery power while in the accessory position and find the wire that is suppose to feed the fuse block. Again, this is general but appears this is were your problems is.
#4
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
Not knowing where your body harness came from I can only offer general statements. A fuse panel normally gets its power from three sources:Battery, Ignition and Accessories. The battery feed in one form or another comes from the battery and provides power to the fuse panel all the time, even with the key off. A hot wire will also feed the ignition switch. When the key is turned to the accessory position battery feed is directed to certain circuits on the fuse panel. I believe here is where your problem is. For some reason battery power is not being directed to the fuse panel when in the accessory position. Of course when the key is in the ignition position power is directed to both acc. and ign sections of the fuse panel. I would trace the battery power while in the accessory position and find the wire that is suppose to feed the fuse block. Again, this is general but appears this is were your problems is.
That being said, even without the "accessory" position, I would assume that the radio and accessory wires should light up when in the "run" position. Everything else lights up....headlights, tails, seats, gauges, engine, trans, etc.
It's not impossible that there is a missing wire or something from the harness for the radio (although unlikely...I am careful about this stuff). The accessory fuse though....I can't think of any explanation for that at all.
Radio is an aftermarket Kenwood with amp
#5
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (4)
You have to be missing a wire to the accessory side of the fuse box from the ignition switch, there's pretty much no other way to do it. You need to find the wire that powers up the accessory side of the fuse box and make sure that it is hooked up to the ignition switch and is hot with the key in the on position.
#6
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (1)
acc. fuse
The 1965 Chevy switch should be on the dash (not the column) and DOES have an accessory position. If your switch does not have that then it is not the right switch. Go to Auto Zone and get a GM knockoff switch. It will have 4 connections on the back. Center one is START and goes to the starter solinoid, via neutral safety switch. Should be about a 16 gauge wire. Around the edge is BATT, should be heavy red wire comes from the battery connection of the solinoid. The other two are marked IGN and ACC, both heavy wires and should go to the fuse box. Get the right switch and it will feed the accessory section of your fuse box. By the way, what fuse box do you have?
#7
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (4)
Are you positive about that? Im not doubting yousince I dont know 65 Impalas that well, but I do know 67-72 trucks, and they also have the key on the dash. The 67-68's have an almost identical switch to the 69-72's, only they dont have accessory position, the key physically won't turn back to that spot. So I was under the impression that they didnt start putting accessory on them until 69. Cars could have been earleir? Just wondering out loud.
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#8
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (1)
Fuse power
Guess you caught me, not absolutly sure about the '65 ignition switch having an acc. position BUT it sure does appear that he needs one. He doesn't say what fuse panel he has but if it's the original '65 and there is no power to all accessories then the key should have that feature. To solve the problem, get the GM switch that has all 4 positions and find the fuse panel accessory feed wire. Hook 'em up and get tunes. Alternative is to fine the acc. feed wire and splice it to the other wire feeding the panel but I don't recommend it.
#9
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (4)
Pretty sure he's using the GTO fuse box. I think he just has the ignition side of the box powered up by the ignition switch, but forgot to hook the accessory side up to the switch. Maybe because there wasn't a separate accessory wire to hook it to. I would think hooking the wire that powers up the accessory side of the fuse box, to the ignition wire coming out of the switch would make it work.
#10
TECH Fanatic
The OEM 65 would have the switch on the dash. GM made the change in 1969 to the switch in the steering column on passenger cars. It does complicate things a bit when swapping to a later column. Several companies like Flaming River do offer adapter wiring kits to install the late column into the early car. This may ro may not be part of the ultimate answer. My only other advice is to add another relay to carry switched power to the OEM fuse block.
#11
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
sorry for the delayed response, gentlemen....
I do indeed have the GTO fuse box (both underhood and interior fuse boxes, actually)
I am still confused though. Even without an "accessory" position shouldn't I still get power in the "run" position? I suppose somewhere along the line there is a wire missing...but all the way back to the ignition switch? I assumed that havng the key in the "run" position would light up the fuse box (which is does, because all the other fuses have power) I'll dig around in the dash tomorrow to see what I can find. I do not remember any spare wire in that spot that could have been connected there.
For the record, my switch definitely has no accessory position. The switch itself is too "GM, original stock" looking to be any kind of aftermarket switch, although it's not impossible that it's one transferred from some other GM car.
I do indeed have the GTO fuse box (both underhood and interior fuse boxes, actually)
I am still confused though. Even without an "accessory" position shouldn't I still get power in the "run" position? I suppose somewhere along the line there is a wire missing...but all the way back to the ignition switch? I assumed that havng the key in the "run" position would light up the fuse box (which is does, because all the other fuses have power) I'll dig around in the dash tomorrow to see what I can find. I do not remember any spare wire in that spot that could have been connected there.
For the record, my switch definitely has no accessory position. The switch itself is too "GM, original stock" looking to be any kind of aftermarket switch, although it's not impossible that it's one transferred from some other GM car.