ferrets bueller

After wanting to do this for five years, I'm finally going through with the swap. Should have the engine and trans arriving today, and already have the Tanks Inc EFI tank and pump.


I have a question regarding motor mount and oil pan combos. Is there an oil pan that you can buy off the shelf that works with the standard conversion mounts that are sold by various companies? I've done a lot of research, and haven't been able to find a definitive answer. I've read that there are two different versions of the Holley pan, the first won't work without custom mounts (no idea where I would get said mounts from), but will the second version work? This seems to be my biggest stumbling block right now.

nicke

The 302-1 Holley pan will work perfectly, as long as your mounts are thick enough. They need to be about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch thick to provide enough clearance.
Check out the thread by Kwizz. He has some great pics of his setup in his 66 impala.
-Nick

ferrets bueller

Thanks. Think these would work? Wish there was a height measurement, but it looks to me like it would be 1/2in thick. http://www.ebay.com/itm/LS1-LS2-LS3-Conversion-Adjustable-Swap-Mounts-58-98-Plates-Cars-Trucks-/171420867891?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27e97add33&vxp=mtr

nicke

Tough to say for sure, but I would think they should be close!

-Nick

01cherryreds10

iTrader: (9)

Nicke is correct, the 302-1 pan will work if you have thick enough adapter plates. However nobody sells them that thick so you'll have to get them machined.

I'm using Holley 1-1/4 forward plates, with a Holley 302-2 and I need to cut off the trans crossmember mounts and weld them back a couple of inches.

ferrets bueller

Hmm...I know I'll need to move the trans crossmember to begin with, but you're saying the 302-2 pan and off the shelf mounts will work? That pan had me worried because of the rear sump being farther forward, and our cars have the steering linkage behind the crossmember. Any pics of your setup?

kwhizz

The -1 pan would be better suited for this swap due to the additional steering linkage clearance.........I'll post a blue print for the motor mount adaptor plates later


Ken

ferrets bueller

Awesome, thanks.

ferrets bueller

Dumb question- anyone know what size and length of bolts should be used for lifting the engine from the holes in the front and back of the heads? Need to go pick some up before the engine finally arrives tonorrow.

kwhizz

Heres a link to the adaptor plate dimensions

https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...sion-mount.jpg


Ken

ferrets bueller

Thanks! Now I just need to figure out somewhere to have them made.

ferrets bueller

For future reference to anyone with the same question, they're 10mm with 1.5 thread.

ferrets bueller

Was just about to figure out what adapters to order for the power steering hoses, and figured that it was going to be metric o-ring design out of the pump. But....I just went out and looked, and it looks like a similar design to the fuel lines, some sort of quick disconnect. Has anyone used an adapter for the PS pump lines, from these quick disconnects? Is it the same adapter as the fuel lines?

ferrets bueller

I think I just figured part of this out, the pressure line still goes into the back like a traditional line. I missed this when I looked last night.

However...does anyone know why there are two non-pressure lines/what each connected to from factory?
I'll try to post a pic later.

Also, any preferred pedal solutions for hooking up the drive by cable? Anything budget or stock looking (thatcould utilize the original pedal)

01cherryreds10

iTrader: (9)

If you use the -1 pan you will get better steering clearance but you will also need to build or modify the crossmember. You'll also need the taller plates like said above

With the -2 pan and Holley "stock location" plates the pan will fit great and get you an 1-1/4" engine setback however you will need to again modify the crossmember or crossmember mount brackets.

Basically there doesn't seem to be a 100% bolt in with off the shelf parts. I'm trying the second method

Just a helpful tip and an obvious one but in my first engine swap I didn't do this. Make sure you don't modify any parts and keep all receipts and boxes. That way you can mix and match what you think is the best combo

ferrets bueller

I'm going with the -1 pan, and am going to try the Dirty Dingo sliders mounts, as they end up 1/2in thick. Hopefully this is enough, going to hopefully get it in to try this upcoming weekend.

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

If you have two return lines going to the pump, the truck you got the engine out of had hydroboost brakes, you can cap off the fitting going into the side of the reservoir and use the return going into the bottom of the pump.

ferrets bueller

Awesome, thanks. I figured it probably had something to do with the brakes, had a van with the hydroboost before.

01cherryreds10

iTrader: (9)

If you could throw some pictures up when you have everything in place that would be awesome. I am not a machinist and don't know anyone around me that is one so that is the reason I did what I did. If I knew the DD ones end up being 1/2" thick I probably would of done that instead

Do you know what you are doing for a trans crossmember yet?

ferrets bueller

I plan on trying to use the original one, just welding tabs on the frame farther back. Wont know if it works til I finally have it in there, though.

I'll throw some picks up once I get the motor in and see if the mounts work.