Kharp

I was almost ready to install the boxing plates and my father in law asked how I was going to get through the front of the x brace with my wiring and plumbing? Dang! ............ "Let's make some pass through holes at the front of the x brace right now while its easier to do" he said. SO here is what we ended up with. I drilled some holes and then shaped them with a piece of pipe to be able to pass straight through without sharp edges. The holes allow for going on the outside or inside of the plates. Surely the boxing plates will get welded the next time I get to work on it!

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

How is this access door supposed to work? Looks like if you took those two screws out, it will fall to the bottom with no way to really remove it, or get it back in. Also, what do you think you'll need to get in there for? Not a very big hole, so odds are you won't be able to reach much of anything? Not trying to be a smart ***, just wondering. Great job so far though.

Kharp

Good question and fair question no offense taken. The door can be taken on and off by reaching inside the frame as I was careful not to put it too far from the end out of reach. The boxing plates run pretty far forward as you can see in the picture, which I like for strength reasons. Right at the front between the frame rails will be sitting a radiator with very little side clearance. Inside the frame coming to the front will be transmission lines, wiring for headlights, turn signals, electric fans, and I'm not sure what else. I was concerned about making the tight turns out of the front of the frame with wiring and plumbing that's all. Just thought a door later might give me options if clearance is a problem when that area gets used up. If I don't need it no harm done. Does that answer your questions and make sense?

Kharp

Sprayed a little paint inside and closed up the frame rails....FINALLY!

Kharp

One nice thing about a rotisserie is being able to fit the cross member while it's upside down. Just do the grinding until it fits where you like it.

Kharp

I was really "gettin' with it" yesterday until my grinder broke in half - yep I'm talking "just fell off" . I did get at least one of the spring perches cut off before the grinder nose ejected! Anyway, this is a Granada rear end that I have purchased along with a TCI install kit. More soon .....

kwhizz

Moving right along............What rear end are you using....?????

Ken

Kharp

Ken it is an 8" Ford Granada approximately 58" wide - same as Clarence has. Been meaning to ask what gear you ended up with in your '37? I remember the rear tire being 29" tall I believe?

kwhizz

Ended up with a 3.55..........

Kharp

Starting to gather some items for mocking up the drivetrain. The 4L60E case is empty, and I had a plate made that bolts in the front pump location. It serves as a guide for a full length mandrel (1.5" OD steel pipe) that will extend to the rear pinion for measuring and setup purposes.

Kharp

Located a bell housing to complete the transmission, and borrowed a dummy block from a friend (thanks Bill!). The block is plastic and lightweight for positioning in the frame, and it also has threaded inserts all over the place for fitting various items. The oil pan is the real deal and may or may not work depending on the front cross member. Glad to have this assembly ready to roll when needed....

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

What oil pan is that? Im sure it will work since the engine in older cars is usually a lot further back than on newer cars, the crossmember wont be an issue. The only problem may be with the sump part hanging down too low, it appears to be a couple inches more than a F body pan. If you can find an F body pan, thet are even with the bottom of the transmission, and on lowered cars thats a plus.

Kharp

The label on the pan is 12624621 and the pan is stamped 12614622.

Looks like I'll be researching "F" body pans. Thanks for this catch and the info guys!

kwhizz

Ditto on that pan like Eric said................Get rid of it.....The pan should be no lower than the trans pan........If you need a "F" body pan I have one with the oil cooler in it......It came off the LSA conversion I did......

Ken

aggie91

I recommend changing the pan too. Use a F body pan or even a CTS-V or LSA pan. They do not hang down as low as the GM muscle car pan does.

Kharp

Got the rear end installed today. It doesn't have all the bolts/brackets/shocks, and the spring pads are just floating in there, but it should be fine for mock up purposes.

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

Well you're certainly working fast, according to the date on that picture, you did that tomorrow!

Kharp

Set the body back on the frame today. The point of this exercise was to get the car close to ride height so I could install the front cross member. Well plenty of work left to get the ride height because the back is way too high.

kwhizz

Yep..........3 or 4 inch lowering blocks are in your future......

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

Doesn't look like it, but is there any way you could take the springs apart and just use the main one for mock up? That's the way I did mine, and it pretty much put it at final ride height. Also, don't forget to account for how much the springs will settle during the first couple thousand miles, and the weight of interior, gas tank, gas ect. but I'm sure you know that.