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LS (Vortec ) swap motor noise Please help..

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Old 06-14-2015, 05:25 PM
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Default LS (Vortec ) swap motor noise Please help..

Please, give me your input what this noise may be.....

I am not sure what to think, I finally got motor running good thanks to a new set of reman injectors and a bunch or help from everyone here, got some exhaust on it and this is what I have.

I have 60# of oil pressure on fire up and stays at 40-45#, I can't believe if it has a spun bearing I would have anywhere near that.

Also pulled valve cover off the side I thought it was and everything looks good, good oil to all push rod, no loose rockers.... so I am thinking no collapsed lifters.

I really can't tell where its coming from, with a screw driver to my ear and on different spots it sound like the rear of motor or the bell housing. So I took starter down and rolled motor over by hand to check all torque converter bolts and they are all tight.

The only thing I can feel is when I roll the motor over there is a catch somewhere and I believe that is my noise.....

What I mean to say is it rolls over free (except the normal compression spots) then all of a sudden it hits something. You literally have to back up a bit and spin it fast with the breaker bar to get past it....

My next thing I guess is taking off the pan, which means nearly a complete removal of the engine from car again, ugh....

Not sure if I have a clearance issue with some modification to pan or pickup tube.... (Muscle car pan notched in front for steering clearance and pickup tube modified to fit) (74 Nova)

Please any help or thoughts are greatly appreciated. Please let me know if the video works as I am not to good at this stuff... LOL

99 Vortec Motor from Silverado that was Wrecked but not hit to bad, I never heard it run....
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Old 06-14-2015, 06:35 PM
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Did you use new converter bolts? Friend had an issue with the bolt heads being too tall and they were rubbing the rear cover I think. Ground down the heads a little and all is fine now.
Old 06-14-2015, 08:13 PM
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Actually I never separated the motor and tranny....

I also pulled each of the coil wires while it was running one at a time to try and locate the noise if it was a bottom end issue...

I feel it must be a bolt that is to long or something came loose.
What about the pan bolts, I can't remember if any go thru far enough to contact the flex plate if I used one to long or not....
Old 06-14-2015, 11:10 PM
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Does it make the noise from cold start and stay the same as it warms up?
Old 06-15-2015, 12:49 AM
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If not a flex plate bolt, did you ever have the pan off? Is it possible to bend the reluctor wheel and have it hit on something, yet still run on all 8.
Old 06-15-2015, 06:18 AM
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It does it right from start up to warm.

I took the truck pan off and put on the new pan, windage tray and pickup (all had to be modified)

Maybe I have a clearance issue with the modifications, thought I checked all that out...

It has to be something with a bit of resistance to it , as I said you can feel it when you roll it over with a breaker bar, like some sort of metal hitting metal.
Old 06-15-2015, 06:20 AM
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It honestly feels like a torque converter bolt that is loose and hitting off an edge in the rear of the motor as it makes its revolution, but they all look good and snug.

I am going to have my buddy roll it over by hand while I watch from underneath, last night when i did it I had to move it a bit, get back under, move it some more, get back under.....
Old 06-15-2015, 09:25 AM
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It's probably the pan. windage tray?
Old 06-15-2015, 01:29 PM
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My guess is it's the windage tray too, should be easy to see where it's hitting once you get the pan off.
Old 06-15-2015, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by lv74nova
It honestly feels like a torque converter bolt that is loose and hitting off an edge in the rear of the motor as it makes its revolution, but they all look good and snug.

I am going to have my buddy roll it over by hand while I watch from underneath, last night when i did it I had to move it a bit, get back under, move it some more, get back under.....
Ive had a turbo350 and a 2004r both do this cant remember but i think the actual converter was taping the bellhousing around the 2 oclock position on one , the other was around the 10 oclock position , alittle grinding with a flap disc solved it , pain to do though both ly6s
Old 06-15-2015, 03:47 PM
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I guess I will be pulling the motor, at least lift it enough to get the pan. I am sure it will be noticeable when I get it opened up. I was just hoping it was something simple I may have missed or put to long a bolt in where the pan bolts to the bell housing.... I couldn't remember how close things were in that area.
Old 06-15-2015, 05:36 PM
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I am guessing windage tray also. That thing gets really close to the crank. Once you get the pan off you can try loosening the nuts and see it you can move it around and center it. Otherwise you might have to shim it.
Old 06-16-2015, 11:44 AM
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Sounds like the windage tray is rubbing. I modified my truck windage tray to fit with the F-body pan and when I put it together I spun the engine over before I put it in the car and I would come to a complete halt about 3/4 of the way around. I pulled the pan off and spun it again without touching anything else and it spun freely. Turns out when I cut the tray it must of bent it a little.
Old 06-16-2015, 03:44 PM
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Thank you everyone for your input. I am getting ready to pick the engine up enough to get the pan off.

I am feeling a bit better know that may be all it is...

I will let everyone know how I make out.
Old 03-21-2016, 02:20 PM
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Any updates on this issue? Did it end being the windage tray?
Old 03-21-2016, 11:23 PM
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we had a motor that was like that, a tight spot in it. turned out to be a bent rod. rollover vehicle got hydrolocked. replaced that one piston & rod with another and it ran fine.

good luck, i hope it's something simple.



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