Cheapest way to swap stock 6.0 into 71 chevy pickup?
#1
Staging Lane
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Cheapest way to swap stock 6.0 into 71 chevy pickup?
Hey everyone. Like the title says I'm looking for the cheapest way to swap a 6.0 into a 71 chevy truck. This is my cousins truck and I've been trying to help him out a bit. What we were planning on is using all the stock harness and computer stuff and just running it stock for now until he decides what other mods he wants to do with it. But the guy who was going to help him with buttoning up the wiring (mounting computer running a few wires) says the harness HAS to be sent out and redone to work? We were looking for the cheapest way possible to get this done. Definitely doesnt have to be pretty. Its his work truck which he hauls hay with. Eventually he was going to just put holley efi in it but hes just out of high school and on a tight budget. He has a turbo 350 trans. Any help is appreciated!
#2
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Hey everyone. Like the title says I'm looking for the cheapest way to swap a 6.0 into a 71 chevy truck. This is my cousins truck and I've been trying to help him out a bit. What we were planning on is using all the stock harness and computer stuff and just running it stock for now until he decides what other mods he wants to do with it. But the guy who was going to help him with buttoning up the wiring (mounting computer running a few wires) says the harness HAS to be sent out and redone to work? We were looking for the cheapest way possible to get this done. Definitely doesnt have to be pretty. Its his work truck which he hauls hay with. Eventually he was going to just put holley efi in it but hes just out of high school and on a tight budget. He has a turbo 350 trans. Any help is appreciated!
The cheapest way to do all of this is to take as much of the original truck as you can. Mounting the engine is cake, and can be done with $30 LS swap plates from ebay. You'll need to figure out a radiator (the LS and LT motors all had the same size hoses, so you have lots of options). Not sure what you are doing for a transmission but you CAN use the old school 350s, 400s, 4 speeds etc....all will bolt up. If you swap to something like a 4L60e (or, whatever came in the 6.0 truck) then you may need to modify the transmission crossmember and stuff.
There are odds and ends, but that's the basics you need to worry about.
#3
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Lt1swap.com has all of the wiring pinouts and stuff if you want to deletr the unnecessary stuff from the harness.
Use a drive by cable truck harness and get the matching truck underhood fuse block. Mount the fuse block somewhere under the hood and it is just a couple easy hookups to it(also on lt1swap.com). Youll need the gm flexplate adapter to bolt a older transmission up behind a ls engine, elongate the holes on the 5.3l flexplate to use the torque converter you already have with the th350. Get the pcm retuned for a manual trans setup and the vats removed.
Use a drive by cable truck harness and get the matching truck underhood fuse block. Mount the fuse block somewhere under the hood and it is just a couple easy hookups to it(also on lt1swap.com). Youll need the gm flexplate adapter to bolt a older transmission up behind a ls engine, elongate the holes on the 5.3l flexplate to use the torque converter you already have with the th350. Get the pcm retuned for a manual trans setup and the vats removed.
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That guy is wrong. You don't need to do a thing to the harness to make it work...you're just going to have a few pigtails that are not connected to anything. You will need to remove the VATS (Vehicle Anti-Theft System), but that is in the computer, not the harness. If you have the body control module and key from the 6.0, you won't even need to do this step. but if you do, you can usually have it done for $50-$75 either locally or you can send it out to several places that will do that for you.
The cheapest way to do all of this is to take as much of the original truck as you can. Mounting the engine is cake, and can be done with $30 LS swap plates from ebay. You'll need to figure out a radiator (the LS and LT motors all had the same size hoses, so you have lots of options). Not sure what you are doing for a transmission but you CAN use the old school 350s, 400s, 4 speeds etc....all will bolt up. If you swap to something like a 4L60e (or, whatever came in the 6.0 truck) then you may need to modify the transmission crossmember and stuff.
There are odds and ends, but that's the basics you need to worry about.
The cheapest way to do all of this is to take as much of the original truck as you can. Mounting the engine is cake, and can be done with $30 LS swap plates from ebay. You'll need to figure out a radiator (the LS and LT motors all had the same size hoses, so you have lots of options). Not sure what you are doing for a transmission but you CAN use the old school 350s, 400s, 4 speeds etc....all will bolt up. If you swap to something like a 4L60e (or, whatever came in the 6.0 truck) then you may need to modify the transmission crossmember and stuff.
There are odds and ends, but that's the basics you need to worry about.
It has a drive by wire setup on it now, It has the thorttle body and gas pedal also. But I have a spare drive by cable tb that I was gonna give to him if he didn't want to go that route. What would be needed to convert it to drive by cable and would it even be worth the trouble compared to just putting the dbw in?
Thanks again for the help guys. I told him it would be super simple and cheap to put this ls in all stock from what I had read and when he told me the guy said 1k to do wiring I felt like an azz! I love this site!
#6
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THANK YOU! Thats what I thought needed to be done, but from what my cousin told me this guy is supposedly pretty good at this stuff and would know what hes talking about. We have the motor and trans mounted in the truck already the main part is wiring and a fuel system.
It has a drive by wire setup on it now, It has the thorttle body and gas pedal also. But I have a spare drive by cable tb that I was gonna give to him if he didn't want to go that route. What would be needed to convert it to drive by cable and would it even be worth the trouble compared to just putting the dbw in?
Thanks again for the help guys. I told him it would be super simple and cheap to put this ls in all stock from what I had read and when he told me the guy said 1k to do wiring I felt like an azz! I love this site!
It has a drive by wire setup on it now, It has the thorttle body and gas pedal also. But I have a spare drive by cable tb that I was gonna give to him if he didn't want to go that route. What would be needed to convert it to drive by cable and would it even be worth the trouble compared to just putting the dbw in?
Thanks again for the help guys. I told him it would be super simple and cheap to put this ls in all stock from what I had read and when he told me the guy said 1k to do wiring I felt like an azz! I love this site!
I would assume you would need to reprogram the computer for DBC but I don't know that for sure. The computer has to know what the throttle is doing somehow though.
As far as $1000 for wiring.....hahahaah. If you have the harness already, and you're not spending money on a custom one....it's more like $0.00. The engine does not know that it's in a different vehicle. The stock harness does its job just like it's supposed to.
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#8
I did the swap myself on the cheap in my 68. I used the factory truck harness and PCM and used the diagrams and information on LT1swap.com and it all worked out great. Engine, harness, mounts and fuel system stuff (keep in mind he will have to run lines to make this a high pressure return style system now) I came in right under $1000. The th350 will bolt up to the LS motor, and since you have a 6.0 it should already have the crank spacer to allow you to use a standard th350 converter. Just double check pump engagement and make sure the snout of the converter is seated against the hub of the adapter on the end of the crank. On mine, I ended up using a cable throttle body and a factory throttle cable from a 99-03 Silverado. I just had to slightly re-bend the upper portion of the pedal to get the throw right on the cable. But it worked very easily and was extremely cost effective
#9
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