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Thanks Jimbo, it is a nice car and you are right you do not see 1st gen Monte Carlos much anymore. Next fall we will install the LS3, 9 inch with 3.89s, upgrade the brakes and lower the car a bit.also I am going to find some comfortable aftermarket seats.
Jarhead
I've been validating the fitment of parts with the stock position/1" set-back brackets and thought I'd share the results with you...
The truck A/C compressor and bracket bolts right up as it did with the forward mounts; the F-body compressor with require notching of the K-member, but the engine bracket will not impede that. I will be checking the GTO compressor for fitment with these brackets later.
Has anyone tried a low mount Sanden on Corvette spacing using the Holley low mount bracket? I read the top but may have missed it.
I have the setback mounts with the Sanden low mount and can measure the space behind the compressor tomorrow and let you know. Actually will make LS Fest this year!
@ToddokyI've got my 6 liter on the stand with the f-body pan on it. I just keep thinking I hate to spend the money on the holley pan and mounts, but it sure would be nice to be able to put the engine/trans on the frame and know that when I drop the body on everything will be in the right place. I'm going to order, but I have a few questions.
Car is a 71 Cutlass convertible with AC, putting in a 6 liter with a 4l80 using truck accessories using the rainier/envoy PS pump with the smaller pulley. I'm keeping the factory AC/heat box on the firewall. I don't know what ac compressor, I have two stock GM units. Website say this works with mildly lowered cars, mine will be 2" lower.
If I use the 302-2 and the forward mounts will everything fit?
Do you know the approximate drive shaft length need with this swap kit?
Hello dewchugr. I can give you confirmation of fitment regarding your engine, transmission and factory A/C evaporator case if you are using the Hooker Blackheart forward bias A-body engine mounting bracket. I can also confirm that you will not be able to use the F-body oil pan with the engine mounted in that position and will need to use a Holley 302-2, or 302-3 oil pan to achieve installation.
I've attached a few reference images here from my development file that show installation clearances of the stock truck PS pump and A/C compressor with the Hooker Blackheart rear bias engine brackets, the clearance for the truck A/C compressor gets even greater on the back side of the compressor when using the Hooker Blackheart forward bias engine brackets, but may still not be enough for the stock A/C compressors you have if their geometry extends further rearward than the stock truck Denso unit I've shown here.
The reservoir of the Ranier/Envoy/Trailblazer SS power steering pump usually causes just as many issues with steering box clearance as the pulley itself does, sometimes more, so you may end up with an interference situation that you'll need to deal with. I did not have one of those pump/bracket/pulley set-ups in my inventory of test fit components when I designed the Hooker Blackheart A-body systems, so my guidance relative to it here is based on after-the-fact experience I've gained since acquiring one.
If you are lowering the rear of your car 2" and you are using a GM 10 or 12 bolt rear end, you may end up having to cut and rebuild your tunnel sheet metal to allow you to get the back of your transmission tailshaft high enough to permit desirable U-joint angles to be obtained in your installation. Using a Ford 9" rear end will give you a much easier time obtaining desirable U-joint working angles on a car lowered to that degree due to its pinion height being at least an inch lower than the pinions of the GM rear ends.
I don't know what length your driveshaft will need to be as their are too many variables involved to be able to determine that without taking actual measurements on your completed car with it sitting at its intended ride height.
Hello dewchugr. I can give you confirmation of fitment regarding your engine, transmission and factory A/C evaporator case if you are using the Hooker Blackheart forward bias A-body engine mounting bracket. I can also confirm that you will not be able to use the F-body oil pan with the engine mounted in that position and will need to use a Holley 302-2, or 302-3 oil pan to achieve installation.
I've attached a few reference images here from my development file that show installation clearances of the stock truck PS pump and A/C compressor with the Hooker Blackheart rear bias engine brackets, the clearance for the truck A/C compressor gets even greater on the back side of the compressor when using the Hooker Blackheart forward bias engine brackets, but may still not be enough for the stock A/C compressors you have if their geometry extends further rearward than the stock truck Denso unit I've shown here.
The reservoir of the Ranier/Envoy/Trailblazer SS power steering pump usually causes just as many issues with steering box clearance as the pulley itself does, sometimes more, so you may end up with an interference situation that you'll need to deal with. I did not have one of those pump/bracket/pulley set-ups in my inventory of test fit components when I designed the Hooker Blackheart A-body systems, so my guidance relative to it here is based on after-the-fact experience I've gained since acquiring one.
If you are lowering the rear of your car 2" and you are using a GM 10 or 12 bolt rear end, you may end up having to cut and rebuild your tunnel sheet metal to allow you to get the back of your transmission tailshaft high enough to permit desirable U-joint angles to be obtained in your installation. Using a Ford 9" rear end will give you a much easier time obtaining desirable U-joint working angles on a car lowered to that degree due to its pinion height being at least an inch lower than the pinions of the GM rear ends.
I don't know what length your driveshaft will need to be as their are too many variables involved to be able to determine that without taking actual measurements on your completed car with it sitting at its intended ride height.
Thanks for posting that, makes the decision to get the holley stuff even easier. I just have a couple quick questions. The forward mounts would be better for me than the other, right? Is there any disadvantage to using the 302-3 pan even if I don't need the clearance now? What is the model or part number of the AC compressor you pictured?
Really appreciate all the time you spend helping everyone.
Yes, due to your choice to use both the stock A/C evaporator case and a 4L80E transmission, the forward bias engine mounting brackets would offer you the best fitment. The only disadvantage to using the 302-3 oil pan over the 302-2 oil pan that I can see is if you don't want to see the turbo drain-back ports on the sides of the pan, especially if you're not going to use them and need to plug them. By all other measures, the 302-3 pan is a more useful and flexible pan in my opinion and is the one I would buy to use in your application. The truck A/C compressor shown in the photo is the common fixed displacement Denso 10S17F compressor. I'm glad to hear that you find the assistance I provide useful...I know how frustrating it can be to not have access to comprehensive information to base purchasing decisions off of.
To anyone on the fence about this kit, I can attest to it. It's fricken amazing! Todd has done an incredible job designing this. Originally for my LSA/4L80E swap in my 1972 Chevelle, I started off with the CTSV pan, Dingo Sliders and SW headers. With those, I could get the trans to fit, but then the headers wouldn't clear. To get the headers to clear, the trans wouldn't fit. With the 1" forward mounts, 302-2, and Blackheart Headers, everything fits like a glove. Such a time saver!! Bonus.....I can use low mount AC too! Thanks again Todd! Great work!
korndawg or Toddoky...Question how much room do you have in the transmission tunnel? I'm going with a 4L80E on my 70 swap but my car is lowered with Viking coil overs in the front and UMI 2" drop springs in the rear. Just worried I may not have enough room with it being lowered.
Toddoky...do me a favor and slap Beefy (Brandon Smith) around next time you see him...he and I worked together in Product Development at Year One for about 7 years.
Last edited by Chris70Chevelle; 09-20-2019 at 03:59 PM.
korndawg or Toddoky...Question how much room do you have in the transmission tunnel? I'm going with a 4L80E on my 70 swap but my car is lowered with Viking coil overs in the front and UMI 2" drop springs in the rear. Just worried I may not have enough room with it being lowered.
Toddoky...do me a favor and slap Beefy (Brandon Smith) around next time you see him...he and I worked together in Product Development at Year One for about 7 years.
Welcome to LS1Tech Chris70Chevelle. I’d love to check out your car sometime.
korndawg or Toddoky...Question how much room do you have in the transmission tunnel? I'm going with a 4L80E on my 70 swap but my car is lowered with Viking coil overs in the front and UMI 2" drop springs in the rear. Just worried I may not have enough room with it being lowered.
Toddoky...do me a favor and slap Beefy (Brandon Smith) around next time you see him...he and I worked together in Product Development at Year One for about 7 years.
The room you’ll have depends on which engine mounting brackets you use. The forward bias engine brackets will provide you with the most clearance and best U-joint angles without having to cut the tunnel when using a 4L80. 2” of rear drop may require you to perform tunnel surgery with either set of the engine brackets unless you are using a Ford 9” rear end, which gives the benefit of a lower pinion height to the user. Sure, I’ll thump Brandon for you.
The room you’ll have depends on which engine mounting brackets you use. The forward bias engine brackets will provide you with the most clearance and best U-joint angles without having to cut the tunnel when using a 4L80. 2” of rear drop may require you to perform tunnel surgery with either set of the engine brackets unless you are using a Ford 9” rear end, which gives the benefit of a lower pinion height to the user. Sure, I’ll thump Brandon for you.
Thanks Todd I guess I'll try my luck and hope I have enough clearance. I'll be running the forward mounts and your cross member. I've already got the mid mount accessory setup. Brandon could always keep about half a car in front of me with the current drivetrain the chevelle. I'll have to come try him again once I get the new drivetrain done.
Does the Hooker 4L80E crossmember change the mounting pad height? Or remain stock?
If you mean does the mount pad elevation on Hooker Blackheart crossmember differ from the mount pad elevation on the stock A-Body crossmembers, the answer is yes.
Could you explain, to help justify the $300 cost? It's obviously lighter and has the removable foot, and not rusty. I would think the optimum height would vary anyways for different driveline angles, pinion heights, etc, no?
Could you explain, to help justify the $300 cost? It's obviously lighter and has the removable foot, and not rusty. I would think the optimum height would vary anyways for different driveline angles, pinion heights, etc, no?
The geometry of the Hooker Blackheart A-body crossmember, in regards to 4L80E transmission applications, is designed to provide the user with desirable U-joint working angles on cars that are set up with stock to 1.5"-drop rear suspension heights without having to cut the floor tunnel to do it. In order for that to work out as intended, the Hooker Blackheart forward-bias engine mounting brackets and a Holley 302-2 or 302-3 oil pan must also be used in order to prevent inner tie rod interference with the engine oil pan. If you were lowering your car more than than 1.5" in the rear, the tunnel may have to be cut out and then rebuilt to enable the engine/transmission inclination angle to be adjusted to achieve desirable U-joint working angles. That problem could be alleviated in many cases by using a Ford 9" rear end to take advantage of its lower pinion height.
The crossmember can also be installed with the Hooker Blackheart rear-bias engine mounting brackets, but that scenario would require the tunnel to be cut and rebuilt around the rear of the transmission in all cases as it moves the extension housing of the 4L80E transmission into the tunnel choke point that exists on those cars and causes immediate interference that needs to be resolved.
In addition to the geometric benefits stated above, the bolt-on foot of the crossmember provides a way to efficiently install and remove the crossmember and 4L80E transmission (it can't be done with a one-piece crossmember) for servicing and its visual ascetic provides the user with something far better looking than the stock crossmember without spending a month of Sundays to achieve it.
The price attached to it may seem high to the guys who want/can/like to fabricate parts, but to guys like me who place a high value on each hour of time they have available to them in the evenings and on the weekends to get things done, it won't seem high at all.
Toddoky Or anybody that can help would be much appreciated. I am having an issue with what engine mount and crossmember to buy for my convertible. A while back ago I called Holley and they gave me part number for hooker crossmember, engine mounts, long headers. However I was trying to order yesterday and called the sales guy he said hooker does not carry crossmember that works for my convertible. Any help would be appreciated
02-08-2019, 09:58 PM
