LS3 short block With 228r and 241's
#1
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LS3 short block With 228r and 241's
Just Curious if I could do a LS3 short block and use my Current LS1 top end until I can afford a better top end. I am using my factory LS6 manifold, 228r on 112 LSA, and factory 241's. Will it work? What will the compression ratio be? I woke up to a destroyed LS1 so I am trying to make a goal and take care of it.
#2
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Yes, it will work.
You will need the correct cam gear to use your ls1 cam with the ls3 timing cover and cam sensor. And you will need a converter box for the ls3 reluctor wheel. Might have to extend the knock sensor harness. All pretty easy stuff.
You will need the correct cam gear to use your ls1 cam with the ls3 timing cover and cam sensor. And you will need a converter box for the ls3 reluctor wheel. Might have to extend the knock sensor harness. All pretty easy stuff.
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Also I am unsure of what head gaskets to get. Factory head bolts adequate? or ARP? Do I use head bolts of LS1 or LS3?
Sorry I am completely ignorant. I wasn't expecting to wake up to a blown motor:/
Sorry I am completely ignorant. I wasn't expecting to wake up to a blown motor:/
#5
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Most engines only fail while running, and you probably shouldn't be sleeping during the time that your engine is running... So how did you wake up to this?
Sorry for being a smartass, I'm sure this situation is not very humorous at all from your perspective. Again, I apologize.
You are going to want some bigger injectors, yes. In my opinion, the larger displacement demands more fuel than the measly ls1 sprayers can provide.
ARP head studs, and be done with it. You can use the eBay studs just as easily, depending on your budget. But I wouldn't pay money for new oem bolts, and definitely don't reuse the existing ones.
For head gaskets, you will use the ls3 style for the correct bore. The correct thickness of the head gasket is determined by the preparation and assembly of your shortblock. After you measure how much the pistons stick out of the block, you determine what compressed thickness head gasket will give you .035-.045 quench/squish.
Sorry, I don't know what the static compression would be on this combination.
Sorry for being a smartass, I'm sure this situation is not very humorous at all from your perspective. Again, I apologize.
You are going to want some bigger injectors, yes. In my opinion, the larger displacement demands more fuel than the measly ls1 sprayers can provide.
ARP head studs, and be done with it. You can use the eBay studs just as easily, depending on your budget. But I wouldn't pay money for new oem bolts, and definitely don't reuse the existing ones.
For head gaskets, you will use the ls3 style for the correct bore. The correct thickness of the head gasket is determined by the preparation and assembly of your shortblock. After you measure how much the pistons stick out of the block, you determine what compressed thickness head gasket will give you .035-.045 quench/squish.
Sorry, I don't know what the static compression would be on this combination.
#6
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I parked by car on a Friday night during a rain storm and I went out Monday morning to go to class and it was knocking like crazy. I have a thread on it in the Gen III internal forum. Just trying to put it back together on a college budget. Whole LS3 is $6500 so I figure I can make due with my top end and just wait till I can afford the LS3 stuff.
#7
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I think a 24x LS2 long block would be much easier/economical swap. Has good heads, and u skip buying the head bolts/gaskets etc. Just swap your cam and valvetrain parts over. They make a pigtail harness for the cam sensor, and you can extend the knock sensor harness to mount the LS1 sensors on the side of the block. You may need to re-tap the threads to the correct size. I believe the LS3 bore is larger thank the bowl dia on the ls1 heads. Sometimes using mismatched parts to save money ends up costing more in the long run.