darren roar

iTrader: (1)

What year and vehicle did you get the trans from?

FlatBlack

1996 or 1997 Chevrolet Silverado 1500. It had a 305/5.0L. If you check out the wikipedia page for the NV3500 it will list the years of Chevy trucks it came in. The S10 and Dodge boxes won't work. I don't specifically remember why the V6 S10 trans don't with but I think it has something to do with the tail shaft

FlatBlack

Got the new pilot bearing in last night (the Centerforce 43001 was the correct part) so I am finally able to start re-assembly. Besides torquing down the clutch bolts (I'm getting some replacement spring washers today) it's ready to go back in.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...210_173400.jpg

For the Wilwood Clutch Master cylinder, I used a 90* end on the -3AN line, but it was a little tall, plus the angle of the fluid bung comes right out at the crease on the firewall. There is already a u-shape in that crease, but I had to turn the crease down some more and also make a dent for the 90* fitting. I'm pretty sure you can get around this by using different fittings, but hammering the firewall a bit doesn't bother me at all.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...208_211308.jpg

Slave/TOB before:

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...209_153648.jpg

After/installed: My vice is broken and I have a 1UZ block that I want to make a coffee table out of, so I just bolted the slave to the Lexus block to drive the pin out of the pressure side of the slave. Shadetree for sure!

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...0240SX/TOB.jpg

The Hooker headers were on sale so I just went ahead and ordered them. Notice the gap in the pipes... the steering rack goes through the middle of the headers. The less-pain-in-the-*** method is to pull the entire column out of the car, and since I already had the dash out, that's what I did. My car was 100% running and driving less than two months ago, I've really torn the poor thing apart. Hopefully this is the most 'apart' it will ever be.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...0_175132_1.jpg

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...210_182926.jpg

Still only have one arm but my friend may come over tomorrow to help me drop it back in.

FlatBlack

Got it running!

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...220_123447.jpg

Ran into two issues:
I have a slow leak from the M16x1.5 to -6AN power steering fitting on the pump. The An side is fine, it's the M16 thread that's the issue. Tried using teflon tape but there is still an occaisional drip.

My engine won't run correctly, it's something related to the harness and the fuel load. It'll only run on the MAP, if I plug the MAF in it goes really rich and tries to die. Started a thread but no one has offered any advice. https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagn...lm7-240sx.html

Really happy I'm back on the road but I just want to do a good burnout!

gagliano7

Do you have the coolant temp sensor connected to the pcm? If the temp sensor isn't working or isn't connected the pcm thinks the temp is something like -35 degrees and you will run rich. And if that is the truck maf the iat(intake air temp sensor) is built in so that could also be a problem if it is reading incorrectly. I would also check for vacuum leaks cause i seen in your video at one point it was idling at 1500 rpms.

FlatBlack

Engine temp sensor was working (video in other thread) - is there another coolant sensor?

To troubleshoot yesterday, I also disconnected the MAF sensor signal wire and left the IAT wires plugged in (it registered on my OBD2-fed gauges but didn't fix the issue), so I don't think that's the problem. Whenever the MAF signal wire gets plugged in, the MAF reading and load goes way up and it makes it super rich

I'm wondering if it's the automatic tune now.

FlatBlack

The wiring and general state of things under the hood were pretty poor, I basically just threw stuff in there to get it running. Spent about 3 hours cleaning up the harness, routing things, and making sure nothing was moving around.

I want to get the filter down under the hood, but this is all that I could get locally. Overall pretty ghetto right now, but the car is so loud the big truck intake sticking out of the bay will be the last thing people notice.

I want to re-loom the harness so that the fuse block and ECU are in the cabin, but I'll deal with that after everything is functioning 100%

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...221_162317.jpg

Steven94

NV3500s could have either a 3.49/2.16/1.40/1.00 or 4.02/2.32/1.40/1.00, and either could have any of the 3 possible OD ratios, but the 0.73:1 is best.
If I wanted a manual transmission for this swap, I'd get a FS5R30A, the Z32 version is best, but even the one from a Nissan V6 2WD pickup could be used.
Adapting one to a SBC is easy, but those have a 12.75" flywheel available.

FlatBlack

Eh, for $400 including the clutch, TOB, and driveshaft, I think it's a pretty good deal. For the Z32 trans you need to find a good trans, then buy a $300+ adapter, and a swap flywheel. at some point you're getting close to T56 territory. I'd be worried about how much the N/A Z32 trans could handle anyways.

Steven94

IF the LSx flywheel fits in the FS5R30A bellhousing, then adapting it is under $50 if you DIY. The NA version is exactly the same as the turbo version, both are good to 600 HP, and if you spent $400 on a NV3500 then you got cheated, they go for $75. Z32s don't turn up in Pick-N-Pull every day, but when they do, their trans is also $75. Their shifter is closer to the correct location, their ratios are better, and their shift throws are shorter and easier.
So settling for the weaker NV3500 just because it bolts to the engine seems questionable.

FlatBlack

So you don't even know if it works, but are telling me I built my own car 'wrong?'

You also need to match the input splines with the clutch disk, so it'll be a mixed-part clutch setup, assuming you can find a TOB that is the right size. I don't even understand what you're trying to argue here, that a bolt on setup designed to go on this engine is inferior to some hodge-podge Nissan frankenstein setup? I mentioned earlier in this thread that I fully understand the consequences of using a 'weak' trans, and that this project was set up to be cheap and easy, which it was.

I don't know where you live, but here Z32s and any Chevy manuals are picked apart within days of hitting the junkyard.

Anyways, Merry Christmas bro

green_S14

How much room do you have between your crank pulley and fan/radiator?

FlatBlack

This is kind of a crap picture but ~0.5" from the fan motors. Plenty of space, plus these are thick fans, I'm sure you can get thinner e-fans. I'm using the radiator and fan setup that came on the car, not sure what they're off of.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...&1450898291587

Nismo Kid

iTrader: (3)

Congratulations on getting the car running. Have you thought of running a ls1 intake manifold? You can modify the truck accessory bracket to clear the ls1 intake manifold. If your ever thinking of going the Z32 transmission route I have the LOJ adapter on my car. They also offer a Z33 transmission option. Everything is made in the USA. I was unsure if you were aware of this option just figured I'd share it with you.
http://www.lojkits.com/collections/n...ission-adapter

FlatBlack

Thanks for the info! I have access to a LS1 manifold, just haven't decided if I want to convert or not. That alternator is going to stick out either way so I'd need to relocate it to get it under the hood

That's exactly my point though, that's $900+ shipping just to put the trans on your engine, then you have to go find one and hope it's reasonably priced and in working condition. That'sT56 territory considering the adapter kit and cost of a Trans.

The NV just bolts on, no adapter plate needed. I wouldn't mind a Z33 trans, but I haven't seen those go for under $500 really.

StandardTrans&Gear

The starter location is the main reason. Bell housing would need to be swapped to full-size truck 96 and up model. The Full-size truck has a 32 spline output and the s-10 has a 27 spline output. The better year models are full-size 96 and up with the 3 piece 1st/2nd syncro rings.

StandardTrans&Gear

The Nissan unit has much smaller gears than a T56 or Nv3500. Forks prone to wear and they use roller bearings Vs. tapered bearings that I am not too fond of having as a performance option unit.

FlatBlack

I ordered a Walbro 255 and pieces to fab up a custom Y-pipe. I was attempting to use the stock Nissan fuel pump but it's probably not going to cut it at 43 PSI (stock KA24DE rating). The new fuel pump should be waiting for me when I get back home tomorrow, and Thunderstruck gave me some spare truck O2 sensors, so hopefully I can fix my bank 2 O2 sensor issue.

kingtal0n

iTrader: (1)

wow man , you got a hyd. TO bearing in that old coupe behind a V8? pretty slick

I would have just said **** it and went auto. But I am lazy

FlatBlack

I contemplated a 4L60E but I hate driving autos and it cost just as much as a NV, figured I'd try it. The best part is that all the stuff works with a T56 so if I ever need to upgrade it will be pretty easy.

So my fuel pump has been in Austin since Wednesday, but the silly holidays got in the way and it won't be delivered until Monday

Anyways, found out why my bank O2 sensor wasn't working - the C100 Pin C wasn't hooked up to 12+ switched, so part of the RUN/START circuit on my PCM wasn't getting power. I now have fuel trims! Fuel trims went crazy high (58%) and stayed the same when revved to 2500 RPM, which from my internetting tells me it's a fuel delivery problem not a vacuum leak.

Dropping the pump in on Monday and hopefully doing sweet gnarly burnouts