seanb128

iTrader: (3)

I recently got a 5.3 for my First gen. Anyone send Me some links to a complete walk through or the most helpful thread? Thanks.

LS1 pwrd NOVA

iTrader: (2)

Buy the hooker swap kit, makes it a lot easier.

Greg.H

Easier, but less exciting and much more expensive.


Give us some details; transmission, mechanical or electric fan, price range


I'm doing a 5.3 swap in a 69 bird right now, and I'd be more than willing to give away some "top secret" hints and tips. I'll be able to give more as I'll be putting it all together within the next month or two.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

"Exciting" is not what it's cracked up to be. I would much rather pay a little more and get a system that was actually engineered to work together and give you a trouble free swap!

Andrew

LS1 pwrd NOVA

iTrader: (2)

I went through all the cheap routes trying an Fbody pan as they are cheap now a days.
I should have tried a V pan when I had one but I spent too much time on the Fbody pan.
When hooker came out with this kit, I said F it. Life was easier.
Also I only bought the plates & pan for an easy swap engine wise.

Toddoky

I don"t see how ending up with a completed vehicle that has better ground and component clearances and U-joint operational angles wouldn't be more "exciting" than driving a swap vehicle that was put together with a collection of universal parts that were not designed in collaboration with one another to acheive any particular end result. The "expensive" description applied to Hooker components by some also perplexes me as you buy them once, install them quickly and move on to other tasks in the project; the majority of swaps I still see being carried out with universal parts go on for months with lots of components (especially headers) being purchased multiple times due to poor clearances or discoveries of non-combatibility, or being ground on or beat on to get them to fit. I think some guys enjoy working through it like a puzzle and solving issues as they come to them and I can't fault them for it if they like to partake in that adventure...but the end results are not cheaper or better if the car is judged by it's performance, functionality and reliability.

Aston Tibs

iTrader: (3)

Admittedly high dollar, but an aftermarket sub made my swap very easy.

Greg.H

Yes, I'm one of those guys. Not saying that it's 'wrong' to buy pre-made stuff for the swap, but I prefer to make things myself.


I made the adapter plates myself (I'll admit that I did have access to a milling machine) and I have to say I enjoyed it a lot. They were the 1" setback plates made from 1/4" steel. I will add that they put the passenger side cylinder head no more than 1/4" from the firewall. Had I used the hooker swap plates that put the engine further back I may have had problems, and would have been out $85. IMO any closer to the firewall would be too close for comfort.


I'll also be making my own tank baffle/bucket for the fuel pump; I just can't justify buying it when I know that I have the resources to do it myself. But to each his own; if you've got the money, but no time or tools then you might be better off buying what you need. Not sure if I agree with homemade stuff not performing as well though.

Toddoky

The Hooker components I was referencing for comparison are the newer 1st-gen mounts that are based on the use of GM clamshell mounts, not the long existing swap plates. If you use swap plates in your swap, then the better end result of using the Hooker mounting components can be easily described...the Hooker engine brackets are designed to work in conjunction with the Holley 302-2 oil pan to place the engine lower in the subframe than is possible using any type of swap plate; the lower installed height translates to optimized U-joint operating angles, a lower vehicle center of gravity and the ability to install every transmission covered in the application without having to cut the floor open. I understand the satisfaction that comes with making your own parts and wish you good luck in your project.

LS1 pwrd NOVA

iTrader: (2)

Greg, on your fuel pump setup.
What exactly are you going to do?

Greg.H

I will be using my existing tank, with the addition of a fuel bucket made myself, and a door cut into the top of the tank for easy installation.


I'm using a bosch 044 pump in conjunction with the fuel filter/sock for in-tank setup. It was pricey, but it was the only pump that I couldn't find anything bad on. Bosch makes an 040 pump that is designed for in-tank use, but from what I've read, it doesn't perform as well as the 044.

seanb128

iTrader: (3)

Hey sorry it took so long to reply, but I ultimately want to do a T56, but right now the TH400 will have to do. College and cars don't go too well together. This is going to be a turbo build as well. I bought the 5.3 for 800 bucks, I don't know what I need to run for a fuel pump. My dad has a procharged 68 Bird, and he runs an Aeromotive. Couldn't tell you the numbers, but it seems to do well so I might go down the same route. I will have to run an electric fan, just for the sake of having as much room as I can under the hood. Any tips help. I put the small block and it seemed to run and do well, just want more power and the LS has always been a dream that is finally coming to life. If anyone could give me some guidelines that would be awesome. I know I need a pump, fans, and motor/tranny mounts. Thanks

Greg.H

Agreed, I am in the same boat you are.


I also plan on doing a mild turbo setup someday (n/a for now) and many people say that the bosch 044 can support a healthy 600hp.
You could probably modify your existing crossmember for the th400, depending on where the engine sits. How far back/forward will it be compared to stock?


These may be applicable to your turbo build, check 'em out:
http://www.speed-engineering.com/fea...2-ls3-ls6.html
I have a set of their ls1 longtubes (VERY nice for the $$) that should fit in my '69 with some small modifications.


For motor mounts, I am using the Energy suspension 3.1114g motor mounts and some standard SBC frame mounts, they work great.
Depending on what type of adapter plate/mounting you use, you may need to lengthen your driveshaft. I put the engine in the stock location with 1" setback plates to avoid things like this and the crossmember.

LS1 pwrd NOVA

iTrader: (2)

Greg what oil pan are you using?
How far is the pass head from the firewall?
Have you mocked those long tube headers up from speed engineering?
I was thinking of getting them also but I've heard you have to make me fit but they work.
Are these the ones you have?
http://www.speed-engineering.com/lsx...6-engines.html

Greg.H

Passenger side head is about 1/4" from the firewall. I am using the f-body oil pan from superchevyperformance.com. It's very nice for the $200 I paid. My bird has the longer pitman and idler arms for the quick ratio steering, so I should be able to use that pan without cutting it up. I'll report back once I get everything all fit up.


I have not mocked up the headers yet. I will be doing it all next week. I did not buy their LSX swap headers; I got the 1 3/4" ones meant for the 98-02 Camaro/firebird because I am using the mechanical clutch linkage and that last tube on the driver's side isn't going to let it happen with the engine pushed so far back. It's all a big puzzle and there's only one way to make it fit .

ryeguy2006a

iTrader: (27)

I am one of the guys who tried to make the headers/mounts/pan work on my second gen before Holley came out with the swap kits. I really wished I would have spent the extra money and just bought a kit that worked. Something to be said about bolting on a kit for a swap that isn't very "bolt in" friendly.

Todd, I have searched on and off for a while but do you have any installation pictures on where to drill the holes for the new clamshell mounts on the 1st gen frames? Or if there is a good thread where someone has taken detailed pictures of the installation?

Toddoky

They don't require any drilling to install, you just have to use the adapter plates that are included with the engine brackets and they will provide attachment of the clamshells to the subframe. Look up the 1st-gen engine bracket on the Holley website and you will find the instructions there that depict how it's done.

seanb128

iTrader: (3)

So finally got my motor. 5.3L LM7. 100k+ miles. Not bad for what it is, and the price was right. $800. LS6 cam, 706 heads.

Busted67

iTrader: (1)

In the middle of my build.67 camaro 5.3/t56 with twin 60mm Borg s300's. Twin Bosch 044 pumps.

seanb128

iTrader: (3)

That's way cool! Do you have a build thread?