Furball

Gearing up to swap an ls into my 72 Nova and my goals are reliability, fuel economy, and performance, in that order. I know that 500hp is easy but I don't really need that. I want to be able to roadtrip the car and still have decent power.

I'm thinking dropout swap and a remap of the ECU and that's about it. Are there certain engines I should avoid? VVT, AFM, etc.
I initially thought the 6.0 was the way to go but have heard/read conflicting views.

jetlag

iTrader: (32)

I had a similar thread recently but for a Volvo.

I decided to just spend the extra money and go for the 6.0. Sure, I could get the 5.3 and add a cam or maybe some other mods but how much will that cost and what is the price difference between the 5.3 and 6.0?

So, I decided a stock 6.0 LQ9 would be perfect for me because it will make more than enough horsepower for my little Volvo, still have stock reliability but also be able to make a lot of horsepower if thats the way the wind turns in the future.

hookemdevils22

iTrader: (12)

A 5.3L is a good option if you find one for a steal, but the 6.0 opens up a world of possibilities for cheap power. LQ4's are incredibly inexpensive, and a great budget build. There are really no engines you should avoid, per se, though I'd steer clear of the iron-head 1999-2000 LQ4 (which I did not do when I bought mine).

Make sure you get the full harness, plus pedal and TAC if it's drive-by-wire and you wish to keep it that way.

sierravmax

iTrader: (1)

If you want a 6.0 the best bang for the buck would be a LQ4 as they came in a lot of vehicles. The LQ9 would be more desirable as it has a better compression ratio to work with. Only problem is there were not as many made and people usually charge a great deal more for them. Now you could raise the compression of the LQ4 by milling the stock heads, swapping to different heads, or swapping out to flat top pistons, or just run it as is. They still make great power stock. LS2, LY6, and L96 are other choices, but you will normally have to pay more for them.

5.3's are a dime a dozen. That is the one motor that GM threw in everything. They are everywhere and you can normally pick them up for cheap. Don't expect to get to close to 500rwhp with these unless you do something radical like bore and stroke it out or add FI or nitrous.

76larkman

is kind of compromise. Go a L33 5.3 from 04-06 Silverado. Gives you all aluminum block & heads, 799 heads. Flat top pistons 10-1 compression 310 factory reliable horsepower. I went with one 42k miles all dressed but tranny $2300 delivered to shop door. Engine itself without bolt ons weighed 350lbs. The L33 is a vin code B on 04-06 & gen 3 engine.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

Given your goals, I think a 5.3L makes sense. In my opinion, the best 5.3L is the LH8. It is a Gen IV engine, aluminum block, no VVT or AFM, and good 799 heads.

Also don't over look the 4.8L (L20). This is the Gen IV 4.8L and has VVT. If you plan to do a full swap and keep it stock, the VVT is a nice torque booster. The ones from the Silverados were rated at 302hp:

https://archives.media.gm.com/us/pow..._Silverado.pdf

Andrew

ahawes

What are your HP goals? I am doing a swap into a 73 Monte Carlo and initially wanted to go the 6.0 route as well but ended up finding a 5.3 with 102k miles on it locally for $500 with all accessories and harness. The savings over what I would have had to pay for a 6.0 will pay for a cam swap and LS6 intake/rails/TB.

All of these motors will be reliable as long as they're not cobbled together so they're on an equal playing field there, the 5.3 will inherently be at least just a bit more economical just due to the smaller displacement. What it really comes down to is what you want to be making HP-wise, the 5.3 can do just fine with bolt on mods and a 6.0 can also become a beast.


I would say if you're not in any rush then wait for the right deal to pop up locally, be it 6.0 or 5.3. I was very close to paying $2k+ for an engine when mine popped up on craigslist, I am very happy it worked out the way it did for me.

Furball

Initially I want to stuff it in, remap the ECU, and go. I know mods later are fairly simple to make big hp but I'm not aiming for huge hp. Fun drivability is what I really want. I'll never get 500hp to hook in this car so it's kind of a waste. Not a racer.

Did a 4L60 ever come behind a 6.0?

hookemdevils22

iTrader: (12)

The 4L60e will bolt right up to a post-2000 6.0L. Early 6.0s have a flange at the back of the crank, but I believe that makes them easier to bolt to an earlier trans (TH350/TH400).

Alwhite00

iTrader: (1)

I went with a 6.0 just because it was available. Ported heads, LS6 cam, LS2 intake, shorty headers, magnaflow exhaust. I'm hoping for 400hp & 20+mpg Haven't drove it yet but it sure sounds awesome. I'm running a 4L60 in a 67 chevelle, probably 3,500 lbs so I feel it will be OK.

dewchugr

I originally wanted a 6.0, but haven't had luck finding one locally at a price I like so I bought a 06 5.3 60k that had a lifter go bad and eat the cam. I bought it for $300 and started to collect accessories. Then a few weeks ago my son spotted a Rainier with an aluminum 5.3 at the junkyard. They said it ran when they got it but it made noise so they were selling it as a core, ie $250. Complete, heads, pan, manifolds, maf, tb, intake, injectors, fuel rails, O2s, plugs, wires, etc. I thought I'd chance it since I could part it if it was bad and get that back. Good news is it looks like a single DOD lifter failure. Since I was going to replace them and the cam I essentially got a running LH6. I'm putting this in a Cutlass convertible and for a fun street car it will be good. Unless you're going to be racing I think any of them would be fun.

CattleAc

iTrader: (7)

This is exactly what I did...I also wanted to go the 6.0 route...but decided to do the 5.3 thing for the cost and availability...

I put this...




In this...






I upgraded to the "LS6/ZO6" cam, and "blue" valve springs...I wound up driving this thing a lot.


It runs pretty good for a "truck motor", it's not a 500HP tire fryer...but, it's plenty of fun.



I can knock down 23 MPG at 70 MPH all day long...I love this combo and would do it again in a heart beat.




I think some of the cargo vans came with this combo.

sierravmax

iTrader: (1)

From what I know off my head 4L80E, 4L65E, and 4L70E came behind Gen 3 6.0's. 4L65E is basically a beefed up 4L60E. And 4L70E is beefed up even more. 4L80E is a totally different trans, but even stronger.

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

I've got both, a 6.0LQ9 in a 68 vette, and 5.3 L59 in a 72 Olds.
The 5.3 is great as a DD and that sounds like what you want. Reliability, fuel economy, more than enough power.
And the price of iron block 5.3s (ie LM7) is a fraction of aluminum or 6.0s.
Get it with the trans (4L60) if you go auto, and pick a good rear end ratio for your needs.

Furball

Is a 4L60 strong enough to be behind a stock 6.0?
I don't think a 4L80 will fit without cutting the trans tunnel.
Geez, I've read so many different things I can't remember what is what.

jetlag

iTrader: (32)

Well, I know not as fast as some, but after many 1.4x-1.5x 60ft times on a stock 4l60e in my old 2002 Z28, I think a stock 4L60e will be able to handle a daily driven stock LQ9.

At least that's what I'm telling myself for my Volvo.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

Matt,

It's a shame that I don't live in Memphis anymore. Would have enjoyed seeing your Volvo swap!

Andrew

jetlag

iTrader: (32)

Haven't started on it yet. Just collecting all the parts! I'd rather have most everything ready to go so it isn't sitting as long.