Mustang t56 swap, master cylinder pictures please!
#1
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Mustang t56 swap, master cylinder pictures please!
I had a master cylinder setup from American Powertrain but it won't fit with how far back my motor is (can't move it forward either as the pan then hits the team z k member.
I really don't want to use the Mcleod setup and I am looking for a parts list and some pictures/ write ups on making something else work.
Thank you in advance
I really don't want to use the Mcleod setup and I am looking for a parts list and some pictures/ write ups on making something else work.
Thank you in advance
#3
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Here is a couple of builds with pictures I've found in doing research for my own car:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...5-3-t56-3.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...onversion.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...5-3-t56-3.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...onversion.html
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#9
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I am running a manual brake setup from jegs that uses a strange master, well that's what I have sitting in the box. I am thinking of doing a setup similar to yours but with a wildwood 3/4" master
#12
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How far out are you from driving it? That's not bad at all if it works out, on the one wilwood that guy used I wonder if the reservoir is large enough. I sent him a PM but have not heard anything.
#13
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Power brakes are overrated and take up room…lol, get a UPR adaptor block, use a `93 Cobra M/C 15/16" bore and be done with it, the smaller bore M/C will make the pedal feel right as the 1-1/16 makes the pedal feel too hard and more difficult to stop. As far as the clutch m/c, you can use about any type, I used Pontiac Fiero V6 from a local parts store and it worked out perfect, it uses a 12x1.0 banjo bolt, you can use a 12X1.0 pre made line as well. This my set up before fininshing the the brake line plumbing to the line lock
#14
Here is a link to what I used.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HYDRAULIC-CLUTCH-KIT-79-04-MUSTANG-w-98-02-GM-LS1-LS7-DRIVETRAIN-CONVERSION-/121130157411?nma=true&si=YzOehTq4jym%252FXZyw4enwppAcxvI%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557
I used a stock GM slave cylinder for the trans. Make sure to install a speed bleeder. Makes bleeding the clutch a one man job.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HYDRAULIC-CLUTCH-KIT-79-04-MUSTANG-w-98-02-GM-LS1-LS7-DRIVETRAIN-CONVERSION-/121130157411?nma=true&si=YzOehTq4jym%252FXZyw4enwppAcxvI%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557
I used a stock GM slave cylinder for the trans. Make sure to install a speed bleeder. Makes bleeding the clutch a one man job.
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Power brakes are overrated and take up room…lol, get a UPR adaptor block, use a `93 Cobra M/C 15/16" bore and be done with it, the smaller bore M/C will make the pedal feel right as the 1-1/16 makes the pedal feel too hard and more difficult to stop. As far as the clutch m/c, you can use about any type, I used Pontiac Fiero V6 from a local parts store and it worked out perfect, it uses a 12x1.0 banjo bolt, you can use a 12X1.0 pre made line as well. This my set up before fininshing the the brake line plumbing to the line lock
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I don't like the pull style on the mcleod, have read of guys having issues with it and also it's way more expensive than some of these other options for something that may/may not work. The setup I have is really nice just unfortunately not going to work for me.
#19
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Remove pedal assy. Pull out the "axle" and rotate it downwards so that it pushes a pedal rod towards the firewall vs. pulling a cable up over the top as it did in stock form. Reinstall the pedal assembly, make a clutch pedal "up" stop as well as a "down" stop. The Fiero clutch master came with a good push rod for the job but I did cut it in half, threaded the 2 halves (7mmx1.0) and added an aluminum 1/2 round stock piece to the middle so i could lengthen and shorten the rod to perfect length. Oh yeah, this is really much easier when the dash is out, just saying