1956 Ford F100 LS1 swap running hot while driving, idle is fine.
12-17-2015, 07:48 PM
#1
Staging Lane
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1956 Ford F100 LS1 swap running hot while driving, idle is fine. Hey guys, so I've been driving my restored truck a little here lately. It's got a brand new rebuilt motor and trans with less than 100 miles. I just started to notice that it's getting warm while I'm cruising and have a load on the motor. Doing 40-50 the truck will jump from 195 to 220+ within a matter of a 1/2 mile or so. Everything is all new on the truck. New aluminum 3 core radiator with fan, camaro water pump, 170 therm, and for now the fan is wired on the ignition switch so it stays on. I can pull over and let the truck idle for 5 mins and it will go back to 190 or so. I have a bleeder valve on the top radiator hose, that my front steam port runs to. I have bleed the system about 10 times when it is hot and the temp seems to drop quickly when I do that. I just crack the valve open and coolant will seep out, I don't hear any air though. What's the best way to get air out of the system? I think there may be air pockets in the system somehow. Does anyone else have any tips? Checked the oil too, it seems fine. No milky oil, no coolant leaks.
Cliffs:
I can let the truck idle all day and it will stay around 195.(not all day, but I've had it idling for almost a hour and it stayed under 195) Once in motion it starts heating up.
Cliffs:
I can let the truck idle all day and it will stay around 195.(not all day, but I've had it idling for almost a hour and it stayed under 195) Once in motion it starts heating up.
Last edited by 91frppgt; 12-17-2015 at 07:53 PM.
12-19-2015, 07:53 PM
#3
Staging Lane
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Are you sure the fan is moving air across the radiator in the correct direction. Might sound stupid, but I knew somebody it happened to and it caused this same behavior. His car had a plug on the fan that could get plugged in opposite of the proper direction, so the fan was pushing air to the front of the car.
12-24-2015, 01:24 PM
#4
Rev the motor and see if the water pump suction is collapsing the lower radiator hose. There should be some type of spring inside the hose to prevent that.
If that is good it is probably an air flow issue through the radiator. At speed you shouldn't need the radiator fan, car motion should generate enough airflow. Make sure air coming in the grill is routed through and not around the radiator. Might need to seal some openings to make sure that happens. Just as important the air needs some way of getting out of the engine compartment as well. Can't imagine you have a crowded engine bay. Sometimes driving with the hood unlatched can help diagnose this.
On certain vehicles turbulence under the car can prevent air flow through the radiator.
If that is good it is probably an air flow issue through the radiator. At speed you shouldn't need the radiator fan, car motion should generate enough airflow. Make sure air coming in the grill is routed through and not around the radiator. Might need to seal some openings to make sure that happens. Just as important the air needs some way of getting out of the engine compartment as well. Can't imagine you have a crowded engine bay. Sometimes driving with the hood unlatched can help diagnose this.
On certain vehicles turbulence under the car can prevent air flow through the radiator.
01-05-2016, 01:30 PM
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Teching In
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Sorry to go off topic, Im building a 55 F100 with a LS1 / T56 combo. Wondering if your running a mustang II front end. and what headers your running and if you had issues with the steering shaft. Any pics?
