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I've been battling with a clutch issue for the last 4-5 months. I swapped an ls6 with t56 into a 73 c10 as a combination. the clutch, master cylinder and slave cylinder were never removed and worked the day before they came out of the donor vehicle, which I was the owner of. my issue is, that my pedal is rock hard with no travel what so ever. out of pure frustration I have changed the slave cylinder, clutch master and have also gotten rid of the quick disconnect for just a stainless braided line. I get the same outcome every time. my bleeding procedure has been as follows: bench bled the MC, gravity bled with hydraulic line installed, then gravity bled after connecting to line to the slave. I have also tried bleeding with a mity vac and with no success. could my clutch pedal geometry be causing my concern? and if so how to I go about correcting it? I can provide more information or pictures if need be.
A rock hard pedal is typically the fault of the quick disconnect line not being fully seated. Since you've changed that, what size is your master cylinder and is the geometry from the pedal correct?
I guess my real question is just in regards to the pedal geometry. how exactly do i achieve good geometry? ive made sure the pedal has a straight line of travel in relation to the rod on the master cylinder. I just replaced the OEM mc with a tilton that i got from jegs since it was budget friendly.
these pictures are of the current set up before i installed it in the vehicle. Ill be in the garage within and hour or two and snap pics of it installed.
EDIT: yes i made the end myself by welding some nuts and washers together. only for the sake of getting the issue figured out. its is not the final piece being used
so the third picture is of the clutch pedal its self and the area you see grinded down was from my original attempt at making the attachment for the MC to attach to. i had welded on a piece of round rod for MC to slip on to and then secured it with a pin. that set up wont work with the new MC i have purchased so im basically starting over from scratch on the pedal assembly. any advice or suggestions? more pictures can be taken if needed.
If your clutch pivot point was all the way down by the pedal where the flat piece is located, then you're definitely not getting much leverage for actuating the master cylinder, and the pedal would likely bottom out only after an inch of travel. The clutch pushrod pivot point needs to be higher up on the pedal. Your master will also need to be raised on the firewall, to a point just about even with the brake master.
Also, I can't tell from the pics, but is that a 7/8 bore Tilton master? That's a fairly typical choice for a swap and is a well proven piece.
thanks for the response. yes it is the 7/8 bore MC and the braided line is a 3/16. i'm only seeing maybe 3/8 to 1/2 an inch of travel at the most before its just rock hard. ill relocate it higher and see how that plays out. thanks
so i have re-positioned the master cylinder a little higher than i had previously and i am still experiencing the same outcome. the pedal is rock hard and i get no travel on the master cylinder.
so now the MC rod is attached to lowest bolt hole on the pedal its self. i explored the option of bolting the MC higher near the brake master but that would put me at a point higher then the actual pivot point of the pedal. any other comments or suggestions would be helpful
Where the rod eyelet is bolted to the pedal, is that nut and bolt tightened down? It needs to use a stud with a "e" clip or something similar, maybe a longer bolt with 2 nuts locked to each other for movement at that point, the eyelet needs to be able to pivot on the bolt or stud with the "e" clip.
the actual nut is not tightened down in that picture. it was just their as a mock up . its was pivoting on the bolt its self. I'm going to drill and tap a piece of rod steel to tighten on to the bolt and use as a sleeve for the eye lit to pivot on. I didn't feel like making it a finished piece until I knew if it was going to work and so far I am still in the same boat
02-19-2016, 02:36 PM
ls6 w/t56 in a c10 clutch issues 
