How do i correct steering wander in 1968 Camaro
03-13-2016, 01:13 PM
#1
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How do i correct steering wander in 1968 Camaro Hello folks,
I have a 1968 Camaro with an Ls6 swap, we've replaced and upgraded nearly everything, but the one thing from stopping me from enjoying it is the crazy steering, already replaced and upgraded the steering box, it just wanders all over the road, you find yourself constantly correcting the steering while driving or bump steer. Was considering switching to a rack and pinion for more stability, but have seen arguments both sides here too..... any input you can offer?
I have a 1968 Camaro with an Ls6 swap, we've replaced and upgraded nearly everything, but the one thing from stopping me from enjoying it is the crazy steering, already replaced and upgraded the steering box, it just wanders all over the road, you find yourself constantly correcting the steering while driving or bump steer. Was considering switching to a rack and pinion for more stability, but have seen arguments both sides here too..... any input you can offer?
03-13-2016, 01:37 PM
#2
Yes I do......if you are sure nothing is loose bent or broken find someone who knows how to set it up properly. You wouldn't believe how easy it is to get great handling IF you know where to set everything. I'd start with 0 to slightly neg camber 4-5 positive caster and 1/32 toe in WITH THE DRIVER IN THE CAR. If those settings don't make it handle great you have other problems. Also be sure to drive the car and recheck your settings, you should also be sure you move the car after setting the camber and caster before setting the toe.
The reason for this is to let everything set into place before the toe is set. I always set the toe after driving and on the ground with a tape measure and 2 straight edges etc or other measuring device.
A sure sign of TOE OUT is wandering.
The reason for this is to let everything set into place before the toe is set. I always set the toe after driving and on the ground with a tape measure and 2 straight edges etc or other measuring device.
A sure sign of TOE OUT is wandering.
Last edited by RockinWs6; 03-13-2016 at 01:44 PM.
03-13-2016, 05:26 PM
#4
This kit will correct the OEM backwards camber curve, and corrects the bump steer. And you can set the caster to 6-7*
http://scandc.com/new/node/44
Russ Kemp
http://scandc.com/new/node/44
Russ Kemp
03-13-2016, 07:22 PM
#6
This kit will correct the OEM backwards camber curve, and corrects the bump steer. And you can set the caster to 6-7*
http://scandc.com/new/node/44
Russ Kemp
http://scandc.com/new/node/44
Russ Kemp
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03-13-2016, 10:11 PM
#8
I'm aware of the Dick Guldstrand mod and the need for a taller spindle / longer balljoint options to remove the positive camber curve issue across many platforms.
Bump steer isn't fixed by upper a-arms and the price difference is more than enough to pick up outer TR ends of your choice. Comparing the parts that can be compared, the choice is easy.
Bump steer isn't fixed by upper a-arms and the price difference is more than enough to pick up outer TR ends of your choice. Comparing the parts that can be compared, the choice is easy.
03-14-2016, 09:36 PM
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My a-arms are hotchkiss, i don't know what shocks are in there but i can look better tomorrow, i am unaware of the alignment numbers i took to a well known place here in Arizona, i can tell you from looking at the front wheels just now they are leaning in at the top, cambered outward at the bottom.
03-15-2016, 02:37 AM
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My a-arms are hotchkiss, i don't know what shocks are in there but i can look better tomorrow, i am unaware of the alignment numbers i took to a well known place here in Arizona, i can tell you from looking at the front wheels just now they are leaning in at the top, cambered outward at the bottom.
What size wheels and tires are you running. What brand of tires
The Ridetech Tru Turn is an excellent solution, but you will need minimum 18" rims.
03-15-2016, 05:13 PM
#11
Did you get the alignment checked. Anything near -1* or more of camber might cause this. My Nova has POL with Hotchkis springs, etc. Due to the POL Arms, i can't get the camber below 1*. Makes for a very twitchy ride.
See if you can try difference setting closer to 0* camber.
See if you can try difference setting closer to 0* camber.
Last edited by bczee; 03-16-2016 at 10:16 AM.
03-15-2016, 10:08 PM
#12
if you can eyeball the camber, it might be a bit much for a street car. i go like -1* ish on my vehicles.
if you have power steering you can go up to 6 and 7* positive caster. manual steering it becomes hard to turn at low speeds since you're esentially jacking the car up. i like high pos caster, it makes for a nice stable tracking on the freeway.
i also toe 'em to 1/32, sometimes more on sloppy cars that toe out when you hit the brakes.
it took me several tries to find a place that would work with me and put in the numbers I wanted and give me print outs of actual data.
another possibility is the rear end thrust alignment. i've had cars dog-track due to messed up rear end stuff. feels just like a front end issue.
if you have power steering you can go up to 6 and 7* positive caster. manual steering it becomes hard to turn at low speeds since you're esentially jacking the car up. i like high pos caster, it makes for a nice stable tracking on the freeway.
i also toe 'em to 1/32, sometimes more on sloppy cars that toe out when you hit the brakes.
it took me several tries to find a place that would work with me and put in the numbers I wanted and give me print outs of actual data.
another possibility is the rear end thrust alignment. i've had cars dog-track due to messed up rear end stuff. feels just like a front end issue.
03-20-2016, 03:54 PM
#14
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First, be sure everything is up to par as far as tie rods, ball joints, rag joint, ETC.
Second, get it aligned to...
•Caster: 3 - 4 degrees positive (+) PS = more, manual steer less.
•Camber: 1/4 to 1/2 degrees negative (-)
•With upper a-arm relocation Camber: 0 degrees
•Toe-in: 0 - 1/8 inch
http://www.pozziracing.com/first_gen...gnment%20specs
Second, get it aligned to...
•Caster: 3 - 4 degrees positive (+) PS = more, manual steer less.
•Camber: 1/4 to 1/2 degrees negative (-)
•With upper a-arm relocation Camber: 0 degrees
•Toe-in: 0 - 1/8 inch
http://www.pozziracing.com/first_gen...gnment%20specs
Last edited by Doug G; 03-20-2016 at 04:02 PM.
03-20-2016, 05:42 PM
#15
10 Second Club
You can try this first 
yes there is an adjustment
on the top cover youll see a nut with a straight slot .
loosen the lock nut while holding the straight slotted adjuster still.
once locknut is loose turn the adjuster in 1/4 turn at a time then lock it down and check steering.
if that dont help its time to rebuild or get a new box.
once the race goes in them no adjustments will help.
Camaro manual steering gear adjustment paper. Here is the link to it: http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/wp-co...erev14no08.doc
The gear mesh inside the steering gear was designed with a slight interference right on-center. The gear teeth were also designed with a slight clearance from off-center to full lock. That is why you must make your pitman shaft adjuster screw adjustment with the gear exactly on center. The teeth on the pitman shaft were actually machined with a slight taper. So the adjuster screw actually moves the entire shaft up and down and can increase or decrease the clearance.
If you mistakenly try to adjust the pitman shaft so that you eliminate the off-center clearance, the gearset will be damaged (or at best very high friction and sticky) as the gear tries to return to center.
on the top cover youll see a nut with a straight slot .
loosen the lock nut while holding the straight slotted adjuster still.
once locknut is loose turn the adjuster in 1/4 turn at a time then lock it down and check steering.
if that dont help its time to rebuild or get a new box.
once the race goes in them no adjustments will help.
Camaro manual steering gear adjustment paper. Here is the link to it: http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/wp-co...erev14no08.doc
The gear mesh inside the steering gear was designed with a slight interference right on-center. The gear teeth were also designed with a slight clearance from off-center to full lock. That is why you must make your pitman shaft adjuster screw adjustment with the gear exactly on center. The teeth on the pitman shaft were actually machined with a slight taper. So the adjuster screw actually moves the entire shaft up and down and can increase or decrease the clearance.
If you mistakenly try to adjust the pitman shaft so that you eliminate the off-center clearance, the gearset will be damaged (or at best very high friction and sticky) as the gear tries to return to center.
03-28-2016, 04:31 PM
#16
years ago I had a 70 camaro that was similar and align was set but wandered and was wearing the OS(? memory fail) edge of the tires our align guy said it was all good. I had another tech look at it - and it was towed out so what ever way the road caught it, it went one way or the other, reset tow and what a difference! good luck
there are front end guys and then there are front end guys!
there are front end guys and then there are front end guys!