1st Gen S10 2wd....Looking for Shorter Length Pitman/Idler Arms.....
03-29-2016, 05:45 PM
#1
Launching!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 228
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1st Gen S10 2wd....Looking for Shorter Length Pitman/Idler Arms..... I'm doing a LS swap on my 92 s10 so I had to cut and notch my frame for the F-Body Oil Pan to clear....
Regardless, when I pulled my 4.3l out, the pass side inner tie rod end was rubbing the bottom of the Oil Pan..............figured since the OEM Motor Mount were shot that was the issue....
Carry on and putt all new Moog steering parts on it (Outters, Inners, Sleeves, and new Center Link)
My Inner Tie Rods are so close to the Frame isn't not even funny.....Cant even turn right with out the Pass Side Inner catching on the frame where I notched it......
I am looking for either a different Center Link to bring the Center Link and Inner Tie Rod Ends closer to the front of the truck and away from the Frame Cross Member OR Shorter Pitman and Idler Arms than stock.......I believe the 2wd length on those is about 6.75 from center to center hole.......the 4wd stuff is totally different at least I know the Idler Arm is.....I never pulled a 4x4 s10 Pitman at the Parts Store yet
Regardless, when I pulled my 4.3l out, the pass side inner tie rod end was rubbing the bottom of the Oil Pan..............figured since the OEM Motor Mount were shot that was the issue....
Carry on and putt all new Moog steering parts on it (Outters, Inners, Sleeves, and new Center Link)
My Inner Tie Rods are so close to the Frame isn't not even funny.....Cant even turn right with out the Pass Side Inner catching on the frame where I notched it......
I am looking for either a different Center Link to bring the Center Link and Inner Tie Rod Ends closer to the front of the truck and away from the Frame Cross Member OR Shorter Pitman and Idler Arms than stock.......I believe the 2wd length on those is about 6.75 from center to center hole.......the 4wd stuff is totally different at least I know the Idler Arm is.....I never pulled a 4x4 s10 Pitman at the Parts Store yet
03-29-2016, 06:52 PM
#2
Teching In
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Don't know if this will help or not but... The mini truck guys have a lot of aftermarket suspension parts for s-10'trucks. Only reason I know is I have a s-10 clip in a car and that's all I know. Thor bros and err..well I know there are several more. I had a shop build me control arms for mine so I think they could at least stear you in the right direction ? I thought for some reason the drag link was on the front of the crossmember right? How is that getting in the notch? It's in the back of the crossmember right. Anyway hope you get it all figured out. I have to do the same thing as you soon so I'll be watching. Good luck
03-30-2016, 03:58 AM
#4
I'm doing a LS swap on my 92 s10 so I had to cut and notch my frame for the F-Body Oil Pan to clear....
Regardless, when I pulled my 4.3l out, the pass side inner tie rod end was rubbing the bottom of the Oil Pan..............figured since the OEM Motor Mount were shot that was the issue....
Carry on and putt all new Moog steering parts on it (Outters, Inners, Sleeves, and new Center Link)
My Inner Tie Rods are so close to the Frame isn't not even funny.....Cant even turn right with out the Pass Side Inner catching on the frame where I notched it......
I am looking for either a different Center Link to bring the Center Link and Inner Tie Rod Ends closer to the front of the truck and away from the Frame Cross Member OR Shorter Pitman and Idler Arms than stock.......I believe the 2wd length on those is about 6.75 from center to center hole.......the 4wd stuff is totally different at least I know the Idler Arm is.....I never pulled a 4x4 s10 Pitman at the Parts Store yet
Regardless, when I pulled my 4.3l out, the pass side inner tie rod end was rubbing the bottom of the Oil Pan..............figured since the OEM Motor Mount were shot that was the issue....
Carry on and putt all new Moog steering parts on it (Outters, Inners, Sleeves, and new Center Link)
My Inner Tie Rods are so close to the Frame isn't not even funny.....Cant even turn right with out the Pass Side Inner catching on the frame where I notched it......
I am looking for either a different Center Link to bring the Center Link and Inner Tie Rod Ends closer to the front of the truck and away from the Frame Cross Member OR Shorter Pitman and Idler Arms than stock.......I believe the 2wd length on those is about 6.75 from center to center hole.......the 4wd stuff is totally different at least I know the Idler Arm is.....I never pulled a 4x4 s10 Pitman at the Parts Store yet
Anyway check out "The Little Shop of Horror" LSOH no notch tie rods. The bagged and the body dropped guys use those. Also u can try using 'heim joints' for the inner and outer tie rods also.
Something doesn't sound right with your steering set up cause u should have plenty of room between the frame and inner tie rods.
Trending Topics
04-01-2016, 04:17 PM
#8
04-02-2016, 08:25 AM
#11
Teching In
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Here's mine , it's a 2000 s-10 clip in a shoebox ford. I cut it off at the junkyard can't remember any details about the truck. It has been brutalized for bags. It looks closer than it is I think because the bags are flat (leak somewhere) and the skid plate is sitting on the ground but it's a s-10 for reference it shouldn't be rubbing any where though as there is about two fingers of room even like it is flat on the ground. Hope this is helpful.
04-02-2016, 11:01 AM
#12
What ever you do, don't do this. You will be throwing the geometry of the front end off and will likely cause some crazy driving characteristics (bump steer). I work on these all the time at work, not actual S10's, but the same frame, and they are close to the frame, but shouldn't ever hit it. Like the other poster said, you either have something bent, or you have the wrong parts. Are you sure you have the correct inner tie rod ends? They have the grease fitting on the end and not the opposite side of the bolt like the outers.
04-04-2016, 11:55 AM
#13
04-06-2016, 04:01 PM
#15
Launching!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 228
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yeah I can take a look. My email:
Jayyk31@gmail.com
I see u started a thread over on s10 forum too. Some of those guys should b able to help u out a lot too.
Jayyk31@gmail.com
I see u started a thread over on s10 forum too. Some of those guys should b able to help u out a lot too.
04-08-2016, 04:42 PM
#19
Launching!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 228
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
What ever you do, don't do this. You will be throwing the geometry of the front end off and will likely cause some crazy driving characteristics (bump steer). I work on these all the time at work, not actual S10's, but the same frame, and they are close to the frame, but shouldn't ever hit it. Like the other poster said, you either have something bent, or you have the wrong parts. Are you sure you have the correct inner tie rod ends? They have the grease fitting on the end and not the opposite side of the bolt like the outers.
04-08-2016, 09:33 PM
#20
I have the right parts, as for the bump steer I've never dealt w a bump steering issue before but all the points of connection would still be the same, and the inner tie rod end would actually be at less of an angle and have equal pivot travel from lock to lock left to right......
