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Forgot to take pic of tranny mount but I just used to Ford cross member and made a mount. Anyway put the new wheels on and set the clip on it to see how it would sit.
I was seriously second guessing my wiring skills and just bit the bullet and bought a painless harness. Next swap I'll try doing the wiring on my own. I really liked the painless harness except for the lack of Ac and fan relays...my fault for just assuming It came with it though lol.
The computer fit really nice between top of dash and glove box.
Wiring almost done. For the fans we mounted the stock radiator-fan assembly. I cut the 3 fan relays from the stock fuse box and we worked the 3 orange wires to a fuse hot and red wires to a separate fused hot. Green to fan relay 1 on pcm and nothing to the blue wires yet. Still a bit confused on that, pretty sure to fan relay 2. They come on when it warms up though.
Here you can see where I mounted the fan relays. And found the CAI part number 9900 at advanced auto. It worked great and only had to make a couple small brackets.
Sorry if I seem a bit vague or forgot some photos, I'm on the road and waiting on a washout ATM. Figured I'd finally make a build thread and forgot my laptop at home.
What would you guys recommend doing for the AC wiring? I'm using all the stock components and the pick has dealer installed air. I've been researching how others have done it but still not too sure. Also and input on my fan relays would be great also.
Thanks for looking!
Last edited by Jameslt1TA; 04-14-2016 at 07:14 PM.
Cool truck! Looks to be in great shape too. I'll be following along.
As for the A/C, it would probably be easier to just run it as a stand alone system. I would get you a Sanden compressor since the F body one is a variable unit and probably won't play well with your dealer installed under dash unit. Then put in a trinary switch and tie it into the fan relay.
As for the fan relays, you need all three hooked up for it to work as designed, they both come on at low speed by running them in series, then when high is needed, it switches them to parallel. Here's a diagram that should help.
Found some more pics on my phone. Here's the fuel system, I used the speedway motors kit. Just pulling from the stock behind the seat tank for now.
Ran the 20+ year old seat cover through the wash and it looks pretty good.
The original seat wasn't too terrible.
Installed the sway bar and shocks yesterday.
Finally got to drive to old pickup on Friday. I was busy and Tim got the Dakota digital dash put in...still need to get pics. Found a vaccum leak and fixed and it runs great. I cant believe how well it handles with the new front end. It even hooks pretty good, I removed one leaf but left the overload springs and I think that helps with wheel hop(doesn't hop at all.)
On weight, I ran it across the scale at the local elevator before I did any work on in and it was 4400 lbs with some misc junk in back(100-200lbs maybe). Ran it across Friday and it came in at 3800 lbs. Pretty happy with that weight. It doesn't drive like a pickup at all.
I've noticed one main problem and that is the fuel pump is really noisey and changed pitches often. The c10 guys have had similar problems using behind the seat tank, fuel pump doesn't like pulling it up. I could put at pickup on the bottom of the tank, but then I still have a noisy fuel pump. I still have the tank from the ta so I might try to make an intake pump work. Dynomat the tank also of course.
Last edited by Jameslt1TA; 04-24-2016 at 11:50 AM.
If you think your under cab fuel pump is noisy, then you'll hate an in tank in cab pump! Your best bet is going to be either relocating the tank to the rear of the truck, or putting a feed line in the bottom of the tank. I put a small sump in the in cab tank on my rusty green truck and it works perfectly. I can run the tank just about dry with no starvation problems and the pump is fairly quiet since its just pushing the fuel rather than trying to pull it up and out of the tank. There are pics in my build thread in my sig if you want to see how I did it.
If you think your under cab fuel pump is noisy, then you'll hate an in tank in cab pump! Your best bet is going to be either relocating the tank to the rear of the truck, or putting a feed line in the bottom of the tank. I put a small sump in the in cab tank on my rusty green truck and it works perfectly. I can run the tank just about dry with no starvation problems and the pump is fairly quiet since its just pushing the fuel rather than trying to pull it up and out of the tank. There are pics in my build thread in my sig if you want to see how I did it.
I may have to look into doing it that way. I found a thread on a c 10 forum where he put one in the tank and completely covered the tank in dynomat and he said he couldn't here it. Here's the link
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=593796
It's good to know that it will be quite pulling from the bottom. We built a little plastic box with foam in it and put it around the pump and it helped a bit. Maybe if I did that it wouldn't be noticeable.
killer truck! my uncle had that same color combo for his fishing & hunting rig.
yeah you gotta move that tank from out of the cab. I moved mine to behind the rear axle, in tank pump and can still hear it at idle when the tank is under 1/4 full
killer truck! my uncle had that same color combo for his fishing & hunting rig.
yeah you gotta move that tank from out of the cab. I moved mine to behind the rear axle, in tank pump and can still hear it at idle when the tank is under 1/4 full
Right on man, we got it from my great aunt and uncle when I was a kid. It still had to camper top and was chocked completely full of fishing gear.
And yea that would be best to move it back there. I just really wanted to keep it stock looking. Guess I could just leave the filler neck in there.
You could always just use the tank under the bed on the drivers side, I see a fuel filler in the bedside....
I just went and looked at that tank and it runs right where my exhaust goes on the inside of the frame rail. Not like a Chevy. I'd have to move exhaust to make a tank work between the frame rails too. I didn't plan on this fuel issue but oh well.
First, really cool project! I love it. I've got the granddaddy to your truck ('51 F1) with an LS swap, too.
Three thoughts on the fuel pump:
1. mount the pump on isolators.
I use double studded rubber isolators (rubber isolator is in the center and studs are co-linear facing outwards) from mcmaster.com to mount my external fuel pump (can you see them between the stacked pumps and the bracket?) Once mounted on isolators it is not perceptible with my throaty exhaust. (2 1/2" out, Turbo mufflers).
2....
If the problem is the pump not keeping up with fuel demand (they do make more noise when laboring over a clogged filter or perhaps too much head to work against):
you could do something like a swirl pot (without the corner pickups). http://atlinc.com/atl-swirl-pot-st540.html with a simple low pressure feed pump to draw fuel from your tank. If you plumb it right, it'd be self bleeding. You could fab it in the garage or find a cheap one.
3.
Switch pumps.
In my case, I use an external fuel pump from an early 90s V-8 Mercedes and a 32 gallon fuel cell mounted between the rails, which draws up and over just like your tank. The pump is very similar to the venerable Bosch 044 pump (the second pump in the picture is just a spare as I only run one, though the OEM plumbs them in series for redundancy), but is very cheap used and also very high quality.
I could look up the part number if you need it. Mine came from 1992 500E - even re-used the dual pump mounting bracket.
Hey James,
Glad to help.
When you have a cold beer handy you could sift through these: https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0855Z2WMGOKzTn
I'm most proud of the triangulated 4-link I designed and built. It made a tremendous difference in ride quality and the truck hooking up.
04-14-2016, 06:30 PM
72 F-250 ls1 and 4l60e 
