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Wow, I agree wiring sucks! I have been working on it for a month now but persistence and hundreds of hours on the internet has paid off, today I fired it up and it sounds sweet! Keep pushing you will be rewarded when all the work is completed! I tried to attach a video but I don't think it worked.
Well I had to do some maintenance on the bike since that's been getting me to work lately so not a lot done on the truck. I don't know what size belt I need but I did figure out that a 96" belt is too short. It is fun when you go to the parts store and say you need a belt and they're like what vehicle is it for...well it's a 6.2L LS3 in a 1991 C1500 What your computer doesn't have that?
I did get my driveshaft back and installed last weekend finally, still looks a little long to me but they're saying it right by the measurements I gave them but it was basically the same numbers I gave them at first and it was way too long when I got it first time. They had me measure with the flange bolted to the back of the tranny this time since I had the driveshaft here and somehow they can't just subtract the 1 1/2" for the flange
Been a while but If been slowly working on it still. Put power to everything yesterday and surprised to see how much worked. For those following, I did a dash and interior swap as well and windows and locks work, turn signals, hazards, wipers all work, not sure about the fuel gauge but the volt meter was right on, but there a couple minor things like brake lights and headlights not quite working
For the engine the fuel pump got pressure to the fuel rail, TB cycles as it should and I turned the key for a second and it turned over (not ready to start it yet) so I'll be trying to have it make noise either today or this week when I've got a couple days off for the holidays.
My son has been helping me and I was all excited by everything that worked with the completely new wiring from 5 different vehicles and all he could focus on was what didn't work. So that's where I'm at, need this thing running but lucky I'm in Florida so riding the motorcycle in the winter isn't too much of an issue.
So I was feeling froggy today so I turned the key and the engine roared to life...for 2 seconds and died. So I tried again, same thing and again and again. Contacted the guy that supposedly tuned out the VATS and he said there are 3 settings they can use to turn off the security settings and I'll have to send it back to try another one. Nothing like having to send off the computer right before Christmas I am encouraged that it fired up so I'm getting somewhat closer to getting it on the road. It is loud as hell in the garage with straight headers got the neighbors attention for sure.
Oil pressure gauge is pegged but it does move some when I turn the key on and when I primed it so not sure what's going with it, don't think the 1998 gauges like the stock LS3 sensor.
OK, so I got the computer back and plugged it all back in and it's doing the same thing. It runs for 2-3 seconds and dies, is there anything I could be missing here?
I thought just getting the VATS and rear O2s deleted would be enough to get me running so didn't think it'd be a problem going the mail order route but now I'm starting to question that decision. I can't afford to buy HP tuners or anything like that right now but not sure what the chances sending it off a 3rd time will be the charm.
Well I've got to give a shout out to LSX Power Tuning, took a few tries but the motor finally fired up the other day . Excellent customer service, patience and response to my questions, got it to them just before Christmas (3rd time was a charm) and they turned it around and had it back to me within a few days before New Years. I put everything all back together and plugged in, turned the key and she barked to life loud as hell with open headers inside the garage.
Still have issues to work out but she pulled out of the garage and the backed back in under her own power today First time in months she's seen the sun.
I did try to put the intake tube and filter on and when I plugged in the MAF it wouldn't start so I said a few bad words but unplugged it and it fired right back up but went full throttle so I think the computer didn't like that. Got it shut down and started it back up another couple times and it never did it again. Got a new MAF coming in so we'll hopefully get that fixed tomorrow.
One issue that happened a couple times that I can't figure out is one of the fans stayed on after I turned the key off. It shut back off when I just turned the key back to run without restarting the engine. I didn't really have time to look into it, anyone experience that before?
It's amazing how sweet that sound was on the first fire, can't wait to get it on the road but little things like brake lights still holding me back
Rock
Last edited by rockusaf; 01-16-2017 at 01:27 PM.
Reason: correction
Cool truck. My first was a 92 that I wish I hadnt sold. Looks like you bout got it whipped.
Thanks, felt so good to not have to push it out and back but still have a bit of a list to get it on the road. This is my first truck, dealership screwed me over on a promise to find me an end of year leftover so to make it right they ordered this truck for me from the factory, picked it up with .2 miles on it in Nov 1990 so I think it's a keeper.
OK did a bit more work on the truck today and have a few more questions I need your help with. I picked up an overflow tank from Craigslist for a mid 2000's Silverado because I didn't have one plumbed in and noticed the upper and lower radiator hoses got really hard when I ran it. Looking to pick up the hose that goes with it, 3/4" Y fitting comes out of the water pump to the tank with a 1" hose and 3/4" to the heater core, that's the easy part. The tank has a 1/2" port at the top that goes to the radiator on the Silverado but I don't have a place to run that. I see 2 options so looking for recommendations on tesr or any other suggestions. 1. tee off the 5/8" hose that goes from the water pump to the heater core with a 5/8 to 1/2 reducer. 2. Run a 1/2" hose to the drivers side of the radiator to where the old oil cooler was plumped (not sure what size that is off the top of my head). Here's a pic I put together of what I'm looking at for reference.
So problem 2 is the backup lamps aren't lighting up. I connected to pin 8 on connector X1 at the computer and it's putting out 12v all the time and drops to 0v when I put the tranny in reverse. I put 12v to the wire on the truck for the backup lamp and the lights kick on so it seems like I maybe need a different switch on the tranny that will put out 12v only when it's in reverse, anyone have any idea of what might work?
So problem 2 is the backup lamps aren't lighting up. I connected to pin 8 on connector X1 at the computer and it's putting out 12v all the time and drops to 0v when I put the tranny in reverse. I put 12v to the wire on the truck for the backup lamp and the lights kick on so it seems like I maybe need a different switch on the tranny that will put out 12v only when it's in reverse, anyone have any idea of what might work?
If the PCM puts 12v out with key on, run that to one side of the rev. lights. Run a ground through the switch on the side of the TR6060. It should be NC, and open when the rev. shift rail hits it. You could check the switch for continuity in/out of Rev., but they're not a high fail rate part.
So I've got more work done and getting really close to getting it out on the road. But of course, 1 step forward 2 steps back. So I got the oil pressure working, drilled out and tapped the autometer adapter to 1/2NPT and with the old sender mounted and wired up I've got a working gauge.
Ran the truck for a while on Saturday so I know the temp gauge works too but the water pump was making a sad grinding sort of noise and the lower hose stayed cold the whole time. I ordered up a new pump from Rockauto, just didn't like the noise and don't want to take a chance and the level at the radiator was down a bit when I checked this morning so there must have been some air in there.
So the step back was I could smell gas and checked the lines and one of the lines at the filter/regulator was leaking, put a bit more tension on it and pretty sure i stripped it. Now the real dilemma, and where I need some advise, when I pulled the fuel line it was leaking, as I expected but not just leaking, pouring out fuel really. It's the middle line so that's return correct? I had pulled the harness off the top of the tank but also pulled the negative off the battery. I tried again with a gas can instead of a pan and pulled about 1 1/2 gallons out without stopping or even slowing down. I can't figure out how the fuel is going up to the top of the tank and down the fuel line. I've got a new fitting coming so I've got a little bit of time to figure it out but I'm stumped, anyone have any suggestions?
I also have to admit after pulling it out of the garage to run it a while I thougth it wouldn't go back into reverse to put it back so me and my son pushed it back. Struggled to figure that one out for a few minutes then I realized reverse was all the way over and up not down Went back after taking a break and grabbing something to eat, started it up, actually shifted into reverse and it backed up
Rock
Last edited by rockusaf; 03-26-2017 at 07:40 PM.
Reason: clarification
Well apparently all you need to do is wait and the gas magically stops, I pulled the line today and only a little gas dribbled out so I swapped the fitting out an it's all dry.
Pretty sure the water pump isn't doing anything because when I ran it today neither hose got even remotely warm until after I shut it down, looks like that new water pump is going in and I'll see if that fixes the problem. I was still getting air out of the system so I'll have to start that process all over again.
On a positive note I found reverse this time and backed the truck back into the garage on its own power. This thing will be on the road soon.
Got the water pump swapped out, so nice to have all this room to work, I feel for you guys shoe horning these motors into tiny cars.
The old pump made a helluva racket when i spun it after I pulled it out so it was definitely on it's last let, surprising for a ~60K mile engine. Ran it and the heater works, thermostat opens so upper and lower hoses get hot and I can see the coolant circulating in the expansion tank. Now I just have to figure out why both fans run all the time, from initial startup and never shut off. I had to unplug them to allow it to heat up enough to get the thermostat to open.
On to the next thing but the list is getting pretty short before it's back on the road. Should get the exhaust taken care of in the next week or so.
Rock
Last edited by rockusaf; 04-02-2017 at 02:25 PM.
Reason: edit
Well she's a driver. I've got an appointment to get the exhaust done on Friday so I took it out for a trip around the neighborhood to make sure it'd make it the few miles to the shop. I'm sure I made lots of friends, my wife said she could tell where I was because she could hear me roaring around. It ran fine but i didn't take it out too long because this thing is LOUD. Still have a few things to work out but it'll be back to my daily driver real soon.
So I got the exhaust done and it came out real nice, 3" all the way with 2 high flow cats (with bungs in case I decide to put the rear o2 sensors in later on), x-pipe and 2 Magnaflow mufflers with turndowns before the rear axle. Rear tires broke loose pretty easy when I pulled out of the parking lot so this thing is gonna be fun.
Took a pic and couldn't help but notice the sticker on the driveshaft just happened to line up perfectly. Not an advertisement for The Driveshaft Shop but they were outstanding to deal with and excellent customer service.
Took it out a bit and the brakes were a little soft, been sitting for 11 months and I had to mess with the brake booster so I went ahead and bled the brakes. Rear went fine so moved to the front and snapped the bleeder on the passenger side, then snapped the extractor when I was trying to pull what was left in the caliper. Not leaking but don't trust it since I did drill down into the middle of the bleeder, so I've got a pair of calipers on the way, the other side bleeder is rusted solid as well and with my luck will probably snap off if I only plan replace the one.
Thanks, I've been driving it this week and get a little thrill every time I start it and it fires up and has that very satisfying rumble.
I did figure out that the pressure switch in the SSBC proportioning valve I've got is leaking brake fluid so I think that may be part of the squishy brakes. Gonna get that swapped and see how much that helps.
Oh man, gotta seem a lot different than that old 4.3 v6 you had in there. Way to stick with it. Now some smoky burnouts are your reward.
I figure I doubled the torque and HP from the old motor so yeah it's a completely different truck. I did find out in the rain the other day that getting sideways is pretty easy even in 3rd with all this power . Had to get the brakes figured out before I tried any burnouts. Got the new calipers installed and a new switch in the proportioning valve today so the brakes are much improved. Thinking hydroboost is in the not too distant future but it'll do for now.
09-24-2016, 03:02 PM
What your computer doesn't have that?
I am encouraged that it fired up so I'm getting somewhat closer to getting it on the road. It is loud as hell in the garage with straight headers 
got the neighbors attention for sure.
First time in months she's seen the sun.
