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Just picked up a LQ9 and need some advice on a cam. It's going to be N/A and have either a 4l60 Or 4l80 behind it. Going with a LS6 intake and would like to get some feedback on what camshafts work best for power and drivability.
Also, would swapping out the 317 heads for 243s be worthwhile?
I'm still trying to learn all the LS stuff after being a Big block Chevy and Sbc guy.
Last edited by 461rat; 11-13-2018 at 04:27 PM.
Reason: update
TR224 is a pretty common off the shelf (ie cheap) cam that is/ was popular. I had one and liked the sound.
I wouldn't mess with 243 when you could get L92 heads, and an LS3 intake is generally cheaper than an ls6 intake since so many people take them off when adding superchargers.
What about a transmission? Does a 4l80 fit without cutting the trans tunnel?
The amount of work required to fit a particular transmission is directly related to the specific engine brackets and transmission crossmember you use to mount your powertrain. The Hooker 1st-gen F-body eng/trans mounting components enable installation of all covered transmissions without cutting the tunnel, including the 4L80.
The amount of work required to fit a particular transmission is directly related to the specific engine brackets and transmission crossmember you use to mount your powertrain. The Hooker 1st-gen F-body eng/trans mounting components enable installation of all covered transmissions without cutting the tunnel, including the 4L80.
I've followed your posts on the brackets and your work to make the LS swaps is very helpful.
Whether you are on a budget or not, you may not need to swap to rectangular heads. PM one of the more popular cam vendors here if you want a custom spec cam, or grab something popular off the shelf. I like the TSP Torquer V2 myself and it plays nice with your current setup and higher compression.
I've followed your posts on the brackets and your work to make the LS swaps is very helpful.
I just realized that I mistook your application as being a 1st-gen F-body...my apologies. The same installation constraints/ outcome applies to the A- body application as far as transmission fitment is concerned; using the Hooker forward bias engine brackets will allow installation of a 4L80 without cutting the tunnel.
It's probably safe to say there are other brands that will work as well.
Are you wanting to keep your ac compression down low or do you care to move it up top?
It's probably safe to say there are other brands that will work as well.
Are you wanting to keep your ac compression down low or do you care to move it up top?
That is true chuckd, one could use the same typical mounts that guys have been using on this swap for years and arrive at the same non-optimized functional geometry and steering component clearances in most cases. The market has evolved to the point that many guys want to use parts that are designed to fix the major issue associated with this swap, which is achieving suitable tie rod to oil pan clearance and optimized U-joint working angles without cutting the trans tunnel open. That goal is fairly easily accomplished with the legacy GM automatic transmissions, but requires a different game plan when one wants to install a 4L60-4L70, 4L80 or T56 transmission. Hooker offers specific engine brackets to do just that in a bolt-on fashion. They also permit the use of a low-mount A/C compressor, which is a huge bonus to many users.
Don't be afraid to use factory components to make your swap work. Fbody oil pans will clear tie rods and there are pulley solutions for steering box interference. And a low mount AC compressor will fit an abody with out much hassle. Dig around a few build threads and get a feel for you like and level of modification you are comfortable with. Good luck!!
That is true chuckd, one could use the same typical mounts that guys have been using on this swap for years and arrive at the same non-optimized functional geometry and steering component clearances in most cases.
I'm sure they could. And not to discredit your useful posts in any way but at some point if you only mention the one brand it starts to become less about the options available and more about advertising. Maybe you guys are site sponsors, I don't know, but if someone is new and might be unaware you work for Holley (and unless I'm missing it there is no indication of that in your sig or posts) then there is sort of a lack of transparency.
That said if you guys have mounts that will put a T56 in an A body without cutting it I'd be more than willing to buy them.
I'm sure they could. And not to discredit your useful posts in any way but at some point if you only mention the one brand it starts to become less about the options available and more about advertising. Maybe you guys are site sponsors, I don't know, but if someone is new and might be unaware you work for Holley (and unless I'm missing it there is no indication of that in your sig or posts) then there is sort of a lack of transparency.
That said if you guys have mounts that will put a T56 in an A body without cutting it I'd be more than willing to buy them.
I understand your side and see the shortcomings in the data both ways...if a user only hears about the way things have been done thus far and not about new products that address issues /limitations with using previous methods then he may needlessly fall victim to the same issues. Most guys here are well aware of my employment at Holley and I make no effort to conceal that fact; I also provide lots of assistance to users through my inbox here on my free time (nights and weekends included) that is usually quite appreciated. Use of the Hooker forward bias A-body engine brackets and transmission crossmember will allow you to install a T56 by cutting/modifying the tunnel directly surrounding the shifter housing/reverse lockout solenoid only. If you attempt the same install with any type of engine mounts the does not move the trans bellhousing mating plane forward by the same amount (1.25"), you will have to cut out and rebuild the entire tunnel over the transmission and the interface of it with the bottom of the firewall as well. This assumes you are wanting to acheive optimized U-joint working angles as we know you can dangle the rear of the trans down to enable bolting in any transmission at a non-optimized inclination angle. For anyone wondering, the stock F-body pan will not allow installation of the engine in this location.
461 Rat, save yourself a lot of time and headache trying to sort out what components from various manufacturers will work well together and go with the Holley A-Body LS install kit (302-2 oil pan, forward frame mounts, blackheart headers and trans crossmember). I'm in the process of doing a LS1 stroker, 4L80e swap in a Pontiac 69 Custom S Vert. The 4L80e fits with no tunnel mods, I have good drive line angles, I have no tire rod interference and the header fit is excellent. They slide in an out from underneath like butter.
I plan on using the Holley set up to install the engine. What do you reccommend for harnesses? I have the factory LQ9 Escalade harness. I'm comfortable modifying a harness, but not sure if that's the best route with electric fans, pump, and wanting to keep it clean and functional with the relays and fuses
Got deployed, so that set me back a good bit, but getting ready to rip the old engine out, went on the 2018 Power Tour, and now I’m ready to rip it apart! Cam installed, (Tony Mamo spec cam for the AFR heads. )
New front and rear covers and gaskets along with Melling 10295 oil pump and LS2 timing chain
Found out my block was not a 2005.... so those ARP headbolts I’ve had for a year wouldn’t work. Ordered up the correct ones for a 2004 and earlier block
Got the banjo fittings in to allow for easier install of the transmission lines. And ordered a Circle D 3600 10 1/4inch stall. Almost time to drop it in
04-23-2016, 07:34 AM
68 Chevelle build thread...updated, engine installed 
