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Got my alternator bracket rebuilt. Went with steel this time, 1/2" stainless is a little hard to work with. Just need to order a longer bolt to relocate idler to where it's at in picture.
Ended up buying a harness also, I didn't want to have hours and hours of pulling apart an old one when I could buy one already done. Went with Larrys Electric. Really nice piece.
Got my alternator bracket and idler finished. Went with a piece of all thread I ran through the top bolt of the the truck bracket. Set spacing on idler, worked out pretty well, and I even got to use the stock belt that came with motor. On to wiring, trans cooling stuff, driveshaft, and fluids. Hoping to have a fire in her this weekend.
So I'm kind of troubled at the moment. I have the truck alternator, and it's a 3 wire. What would be best for this, harness I bought didn't come with wiring for alternator. I've read some stuff on a 1 wire. Any feedback is appreciated
Curious why you chose the forward mounting adapters from hooker? What's the firewall/ heater hose clearance at the PS valve cover like? About to swap a 5.3 in my 68.
Curious why you chose the forward mounting adapters from hooker? What's the firewall/ heater hose clearance at the PS valve cover like? About to swap a 5.3 in my 68.
hey sorry it took me so long to get back to you. I just read somewhere on here that the 1 1/4" were the brackets to get. They fit pretty well other than the fact that the space up front is a little more limited but still
manageable. I This is about the closest picture I have. But I will
Upload more when I get the chance.
So I got some more things finished. Just have to build a driveshaft, intake, and add fluids. I ordered the flex-a-lite fans for it. Super easy to wire. Hopefully starting it within the next month.
The circuit breaker broke before I took this picture, have to get a new one and the wiring is finished. All the wiring on the car is also finished.
So I got it running, but it seems to be running rich. It idles perfectly for about 5-10 seconds and backfires really bad only on the passenger side. I checked the O2's, MAF, no vacuum leaks, replaced the plugs, and all 8 plugs were getting spark. When it backfires I shut it off and checked a plug and it was soaked. Fuel rail is @58psi. The only thing I can really conclude is something isn't right in the tune. Also isn't throwing any codes. Any suggestions?
So I can't figure out what is going on with this. Acts like it is being starved of fuel, but keeps a steady 58-ish PSI. Only revs to roughly 2,000 rpm at most and falls on it face and chases itself for a good 5 seconds then goes back to a smooth idle. Any suggestions are appreciated, thanks.
This may not be your issues, and I commented a while back on your build. I just looked at all your pictures, and are you sure that your throttle cable is not binding? Those cables aren't really meant to be tied down like you have it on your intake. They should have one long, smooth curve to them. The inner sleeve is not very flexible and I see how the cable is pinched at the spots where you have it bolted to the intake...
I also see in the pictures that your fuel pump is mounted higher than the tank. This isn't good, because those pumps don't suck well. The pump needs to be lower than the tank center line (or lower) so that fuel syphons into the pump. Are you monitoring fuel pressure when driving or just at the rail when idling?
Also, again, probably not related to your driving issue (I think that is the fuel pump location), the steam went doesn't go to the thermostat housing. That needs to go to the upper hose or to the water pump, on the other side of the thermostat.
Andrew
Last edited by Project GatTagO; 07-01-2017 at 06:08 PM.
So I did take those clamps off so it is no longer clamped down. It seems to move freely without any issues. I also ran the car and gave it throttle and it seemed to stay pretty steady with the fuel pressure. I also tried that and unscrewed the pump and hoses and let it hang lower than the tank. Seems to have the same issue. The advice is appreciated!
That's probably best man. I would also consider getting a standalone wideband even if you are naturally aspirated. Do you have an OBII plug? If so check out the BAFX obdII bluetooth and if you have an android phone you can pull good information off it. I used it to see my timing, tach, volts, temp, iat's, etc
That's probably best man. I would also consider getting a standalone wideband even if you are naturally aspirated. Do you have an OBII plug? If so check out the BAFX obdII bluetooth and if you have an android phone you can pull good information off it. I used it to see my timing, tach, volts, temp, iat's, etc
Oh awesome! I planned on getting one, just gotta get some more funds! Thanks for the input too! Appreciate it!
Keep an eye on that small prefilter. I had cavitation issues using a similar one and burnt up my walbro 255. I upgraded to a larger canister style one and haven't had issues since.
Keep an eye on that small prefilter. I had cavitation issues using a similar one and burnt up my walbro 255. I upgraded to a larger canister style one and haven't had issues since.
When I first did my swap , my air filter was similar to yours. Power was way down when it got hot. Ended up pcm was pulling timing because of high air intake temps. Your swap will be a lot faster if you can let it breathe some cooler air. Air raid has a kit pretty cheap.
When I first did my swap , my air filter was similar to yours. Power was way down when it got hot. Ended up pcm was pulling timing because of high air intake temps. Your swap will be a lot faster if you can let it breathe some cooler air. Air raid has a kit pretty cheap.
Awesome! I'm going to build a custom intake eventually! Something is leading me to believe that it could possibly be in limp/abuse mode because there is no VSS signal? Maybe
09-03-2016, 08:41 AM
