Crispix396

1962 Lincoln Continental, 5.3 swap. Shop that did it gave it back and when you start the car, the starter stays engaged for a second or two longer than it should. When i asked the shop about it, they said that on the other car they did, they used all new gauges and switches etc, but that on my car, i wanted to use the original keys etc and that there was just something about the wiring on a lincoln that would make it hang.

this does not make sense to me, but then again, i don't know exactly how the starter knows when the engine has fully started. I took it to a local shop here, they said "we need to shim it"... called the original shop they said "if they think about shimming the starter, you need to get it out of there"... local shop did call me back and say shimming did not help it.

Also, because it is important, i replaced the starter 'just in case' and same issue on new starter too.

slocaddy

I wonder if the key switch in the Lincoln does not disengage fast enough or is just wore out?? Just spit balling, but it does sound like an issue with the Lincoln's starting circut.
I imagine the Lincoln has a dash mounted key switch?

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

Are you using a Ford fender mounted starter solenoid? My wagon used to do the same thing, so I bypassed the Ford solenoid and wired it like a GM and it hasn't done it since.

Crispix396

thanks both..

Yes, dash mounted key. If i twist the key all the way to the right the starter clicks. I have to just twist it a little to the right (not all the way). But i can twist and immediately let it go, it just seems to hang.

It is a whole LS swap, I do not think there is still a lincoln/ford starter solenoid, then wired to the LS starter solenoid... but i can double check.


There is a chance that there is some sort of wiring/key issue.. Do you think there is a way that i could voltmeter the ignition key and see if somehow it is outputting more volt than just what i twist? or could I try to start/shutoff quick and see if the starter still tries to over engage?

idk, also just spitting ideas.

lizeec

iTrader: (57)

Do you think there is a way that i could voltmeter the ignition key and see if somehow it is outputting more volt than just what i twist?

^^^^^Not sure what the heck you are trying to say here?^^^^^

You need to check what ls1nova71 said, he is on the right track, if you are using the ford/lincoln solenoid that is probably your problem, some have problems with that type of start circuit and some don't. It has something to do with the LS g.m. starter being a "permanent magnet" starter.

Crispix396

ok, so i did research, found where the solenoid is (whether or not it is hooked up, i dont know, but based on this thread, i'll assume it is)

So when tomorrow comes, and I climb under there and look, how do I bypass the ford starter solenoid and "wire it like GM"? Assuming there is a wire coming from the ignition going to the starter solenoid, do I just bypass the solenoid?

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

Yes, there should be a wire on the Ford solenoid that comes from the ignition switch and is only hot when the key is turned to the crank position. Unhook it from the Ford solenoid and run it straight to the starter, you'll need to lengthen it of course. Then on your starter there will be a small jumper wire from the battery lug to the small lug that you will need to remove and thats what youll be hooking the start wire to.Once that is done, you will need to either put a new battery cable on it from the battery to the starter, or just hook the two shorter cables from the battery to the solenoid and solenoid to the starter together, you can just put them both on one lug on the Ford solenoid.

Crispix396

great, thank you. Lets hope this fixes it. I appreciate the help.