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Turbo C3 76 Corvette, 4l80E, 4 link rear, street cruiser/strip fighter

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Turbo C3 76 Corvette, 4l80E, 4 link rear, street cruiser/strip fighter

 
Old 08-01-2018, 11:25 AM
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Modified an ebay surge tank to include a Wallbro 450 fuel pump. The stock fuel tank is notorious for picking up air under high acceleration and I didn't want to weld on one of those sump pickups into the tank itself cause I wanted to keep the in tank rubber liner. A low power helper pump keeps this surge tank full of fuel.

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Old 08-01-2018, 11:26 AM
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Installed Oil and transmission coolers. They are 10AN in/out type with a 7 inch fan. Since I have a single side exhaust, I had room under the seats for these.

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Old 08-01-2018, 01:16 PM
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Built a battery box in the rear. Trying to save space in the passenger area.



The box is bolted into the frame and can be dropped down for battery maintenance.
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Old 08-01-2018, 01:18 PM
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Some More pictures. I'll keep adding more as I have time.

QA1 Dual adjustable shocks.
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Old 08-01-2018, 08:33 PM
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Plate on the right is for roll cage. Anyone care to guess what the plate on the left is for?


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Old 08-01-2018, 11:36 PM
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Couldn't figure out where to run the fuel lines. Filter to the fuel rail is an 8AN. The return is a 6 AN. I decided to route these in the chassis.

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Old 08-01-2018, 11:49 PM
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Re-assembled the engine. This time it's the forged LQ4 6.0 instead of the stock 5.3.



Fuel is supplied to both fuel rails in parallel instead of one after the other to protect against pressure drops.

Since I upgraded the engine, I also upgraded the 4l80E. In addition to modifications I've done to the trans before (dual feed, remove accumulators, extra clutches, rollerize) I added a 300M input shaft and billet direct clutch hub. The hard parts are probably good for 1000hp. We'll see what breaks first.
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Old 08-02-2018, 12:19 AM
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Installed new brake lines.
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Old 08-02-2018, 12:31 AM
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I'm looking through my phone for more pictures to post and came across this one. It's not exactly about the corvette, but I had to post it. My older son is into the old Shelby Turbo Dodge scene (my turbo roots). He invited lots of our Turbo Dodge friends and we had a Turbo Dodge barbecue in the back yard. There were cars all over the yard. A bunch Shelby Chargers and a dodge neon in front and a ton of other cars in every nook and cranny of the yard. Including Daytonas, a spirit R/T, a turbo K car, a Shelby CSX, ONMI GLH, my sons sons daily driver 5 speed, 4cyl turbo Dodge Caravan as well as his other daily driver turbo, 4 cyl, 5 speed, 12 second Dodge Caravan. Yes, dodge made 5 speed on the floor, 2.5 liter, turbocharged minivans in 1989 an 90. And if you look carefully, there is even a vette in the garage.
I do miss my Shelby Charger (in the sig). Huge mistake when I sold it. Maybe one day we can have a corvette barbecue.
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Old 08-03-2018, 08:05 AM
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When I bought this project vette, it came with boxes and boxes of brand new parts, some of which I planned on using and others I've sold or will sell.

One of the things I was considering selling was a mostly complete A/C and heating kit from Corvette America because I could not figure out a way to fit the A/C compressor along with all the turbocharger stuff. No A/C wasn't going to be a big deal as this was planned as a track car and cruiser. Well ... my local drag strip, Englishtown, has closed all drag racing. A knife in the heart. So now if I want to go drag racing, I have to drive an hour and forty five minutes each way (without traffic). The vette just became more of a cruiser than a drag car. Air conditioning is back in the mix, but this presents a few problems. One problem is having to give up power steering to trade the space taken by the power steering pump.
This is the A/C kit.



And the compressor is a V belt, but my setup is serpentine: Sanden does not make a 6 tooth V belt setup for this compressor.
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Old 08-03-2018, 08:09 AM
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Took apart the A/C compressors clutch and pulley assembly. A friend had a 7 groove serpentine Power steering pulley from a Range Rover that he donated. I then machined off the V Belt part of the old pulley leaving a 1/4 of the v belt pulley and a flat for the rest of it. Then I machined a hole in the Range Rover pulley with a friction fit to the flat part where the rest of the 2 V belts used to be. And I machined off one of the 7 Range Rover grooves and joined the two together. So now the outside of the first groove is from the Vbelt and the rest of the six grooves are from the Range Rover. Then I gave it 4 tack welds (it was already very tight and might not have needed the welds) and it came out great.

The original kit's compressor brackets were for an SBC and on the passenger side. I modified them to fit on the LS and on the drivers side.



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Old 08-03-2018, 10:52 AM
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Oil cooler lines are -10AN.




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Old 08-03-2018, 10:55 AM
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There is a common problem in LS swaps where the water pump heater hose outlets are too close to the upper control arm.. I cut the two steel coolant outlet bungs and re-welded them shorter and angled toward the back of the car. It was better, but I still wanted more clearance. I don't have a good before pic, but this will give a general idea of the problem area hidden behind the down pipe.


I then modified the rear of the upper control arm to make it stick out less and that was better, but the alignment shims still stuck out pretty close to the heater hose outlets.

I got lucky and scored a set of SPC upper control arms that my C3 road course car buddy is no longer using, for a great price.

With these arms, the alignment adjustment are no longer near the heater outlets and there is way more clearance.
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Old 08-03-2018, 11:08 AM
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This car has 6 of fans and 2 fuel pumps..... 2 intercooler, 2 radiator, oil cooler, transmission cooler, wallbro 450 fuel pump and a helper pump.

I don't want the fans on when the engine is cranking.

I don't want the fans going on at full blast when the temps a barely over a limit, It's noisy and takes a huge number of amps. So relays are a no-go.

Not only do I want better control of the fans and fuel pumps, but I want different characteristics depending on what kind of driving I'm doing.... cruising, sport mode, at the track or the dyno where I will want different temperature settings.
For example at the track, I definitely want cooler trans temps. I may also want to pre-cool the intercooler.

I don't want the fuel pumps going full blast when at idle or cruising, overpowering the fuel pressure regulator.
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Old 08-04-2018, 07:32 PM
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Do a PWM for your fans. Cool build. Looks like all you need is finishing it up.
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Old 08-05-2018, 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by EastTnZ28 View Post
Do a PWM for your fans. Cool build. Looks like all you need is finishing it up.
That's exactly what I'm doing.

Just so happens my arduino DIY 4l80E transmission controller knows all about the various temperatures and fuel pressures in the car and it knows what type of driving i'm doing.

I added code to have is send out a PWM signal, actually 8 different PWMs (not including the transmissions line pressure and convertor lockup PWMs) based on settings that the controller remembers when powered down and and I can easily change and store through the new touch screen interface. So for example, lets say I want the transmission fluid at 154 degrees in a cruise mode, I can have a low and high setting for the trans cooler fan. At 145 degree, the fan will come on at 10% power and at 155 degrees it's at 100% power. At the track, the limits might be 130 degrees for the low end and 140 degrees for the high end. Also when I'm not if boost, I don't want the 450 fuel pump running at full blast and overpowering my Fuel pressure regulator. I'll see how this strategy works. If I don't like it I may convert to a PID strategy (especially for the fuel pressure) that may keep a tighter temperature or fuel pressure range. I already use a PID strategy for the Boost Control, so adding a few more PIDs for fans and fuel pumps shouldn't be an issue.


No matter what feedback strategy I use, the arduino's PWM signals can't handle anything near the power of a fan or fuel pump.

Instead, arduino PWMs go to two power units that I'm designing now. One in the back of the car and one in the front. The back one handles the oil cooler, trans cooler, the primary 450 fuel pump and the helper pump. The front one takes care of the primary and secondary radiator fans and the two intercooler fans. I've had less than stellar results (puffs of magic smoke) with my first design for the power units, but I have a new design that I've tested that appears to be more robust.
I'm willing to share with anyone interested and willing to make the effort to experiment. Any discussion in this area is welcome.

I'll put some photos up of the power units.

I can post a video of some testing if anyone is interested.

I can also post schematics or some code if people show interest. This is my hobby, not my business, so I share.
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Old 08-05-2018, 04:44 PM
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This is the front fan driver unit that control the two radiator fans and and the two Intercooler fans.


It's probably much bigger than it needs to be, but it seems to work great in testing, so I'm not going to change it at this point.
I found some newer mosfets that can drastically reduce the parts count, but I already had this built.
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Old 08-06-2018, 12:21 PM
  #38  
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The engine management in the vette is an AEM Infinity. It has lots of inputs for sensors and it has lots of wizards defined so it knows all about that sensors characteristics. For example it already knows about the resistance table in the GM temperature sensor and how to convert that into degrees. It also has a CANBUS output that AEM uses to supply data to many of their Dashboard displays. They call it AEMNET. AEM, unlike some other aftermarket engine management companies, publish the details of their CANBUS interface so anyone can use it. The Infinity spills it's guts over AEMNET every 20 milliseconds. So instead of having to tap into all the sensors with the arduino board and write code to decipher it, I attached a CANBUS module to the arduino and read all the sensor info from the AEM CANBUS. Makes my life a lot simpler.

This not only makes it easier to implement, but it makes things easier to test. Lets say I want to test the logic in the transmission controller at 100 MPH and 12 lbs of boost. If I had to test it on the road, it would be dangerous. So instead, I can just send the same exact CANBUS message that the AEM infinity would send at 100MPH and 12 psi of boost to the transmission controller and see what it does.

I put together an AEMNET simulator. It's about $15 in parts. The simulator is universal. It can simulate virtually any CANBUS, if you know what each of the messages should contain.

Here is the CANBUS simulator while I'm testing the transmission controller's display.

The 3 big pots are Boost, MPH and RPM. The small pots are oil temp, oil pressure, coolant temp, charge temp, transmission temp, fuel pressure, line pressure, battery voltage, air fuel ratio, E85 content. Above that is the arduino mega board (https://www.ebay.com/itm/ATmega2560-...from=R40&rt=nc) and above that is a MCP2515 CAN Bus Module (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Arduino-MCP...nbus.TRS0.TSS0.)

The display is a 7" touchscreen intelligent display from Nextion.

I can provide a copy of the code for the simulator to anyone interested.
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Old 08-07-2018, 10:51 AM
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Since I got rid of the power steering pump to make room for the A/C compressor, I'm going EPS.

Scored a Hyundai EPS for free.




The Hyundai unit seems pretty beefy and has a brushless AC motor. I don't know what car it came off of. It's powered through an 80A fuse so it will need some honking wires to the battery terminal. Not sure if I should put some relays in for the 12V power or if it takes no power when it's off.

It came with a controller box that drives the AC motor and sensors. Apparently, all it takes to get these to work is 12V and ground for the power side and a ignition on signal. I tested it and was surprised to see how well it works. Fingertip force on the input shaft and no way to stop the output shaft.



Next i need to figure out what coupling to get between the EPS and the vette manual steering box and then from the EPS to the steering wheel.
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Old 08-24-2018, 12:54 AM
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While I'm waiting for parts for my own PWM controller for my fuel pump, I bought a cheap fan control module from Ebay (US seller) for $14.24. These are used in Mazda and Mitsubishi cars to control two fans.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1355A-Cooli...MAAOSwPRxbNEG6



I had to open it to see what it's got inside. I've been doing that since 5th grade.

I was surprised it had it's own processor. It's got a pair of mosfets and a decent size heat sink.

So I started testing it and so far, it's killer. I plan to use at least 4 of these for my fans. (2 Intercooler, 2 Radiator, 1 Oil Cooler, 1 transmission cooler). I went to the Pick and Pull and scored 4 Sets of connectors for $10. They were easy to find in a pile of wrecked radiators along with lots of used versions of these modules.

Based on my testing, here's my guess on how the fan module works.
The big black wire (far left) is the Ground. The middle (small) blue wire is the signal. The big blue wire is 12V (should be switched with a relay and a fused). The red wire is the + out to the fan and the white wire is the - out to the fan. Don't ground the white wire. The connector on the far right is for the second fan and appears to be in paralell. Some of the connectors I found that fit this module had different wire colors. I'm only referring to the colors in the picture above. Since it has it's own processor, the module controls the PWM frequency to the fans and that's always 20000 hz so the fans run very quietly. The input can be either a voltage from 0 to 5 volts or it can be a PWM at any frequency over 50HZ. (I've tested down to 25HZ, but it was a little jumpy). No matter what the PWM frequency to the signal wire, the output PWM is always at 20,000HZ.

The processor translates the input signal in to one of about 15 speeds output to the fans. The slowest speed is at about 1.2V or 24 percent duty cycle. Full speed is at 5 volts or 100 percent duty cycle.

There is an internal pullup to +5 volts on the signal wire. If you don't connect the signal wire or leave it floating, the pullup will make the fans will go to full speed. If you're connecting it to a PWM source, I would put a 680 ohm resister to ground across the PWM output to keep the fans turned off when the ECM, body module or Arduino, starts up or are turned off.

If you want to manually control the speed of the fans, you could just connect the signal wire to center lead of a 5k potentiometer connected to 5 volts and ground. I didn't test the signal wire over 5 volts.


I've seem some people buy Corvette fan control modules and connectors for way more than the roughly $16 for this module and connectors.

Anybody use these? Had any problems?
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