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Turbo C3 76 Corvette, 4l80E, 4 link rear, street cruiser/strip fighter

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Turbo C3 76 Corvette, 4l80E, 4 link rear, street cruiser/strip fighter

 
Old 08-26-2018, 08:39 PM
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Awesome progress...so when am i dropping my nova off for a simple AAW classic update install? Seems like a walk in the park for ya!
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Old 08-26-2018, 10:31 PM
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Nice build.....also, I had a Black and Gold 86 Carrol Shelby Dayton Turbo Z in High School. Was a fun car and opened my eyes to boost way back then. Used to pick fights with the 5.0's of the day...LOL. Sub'd
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Old 08-26-2018, 11:33 PM
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Originally Posted by WTF? View Post
Nice build.....also, I had a Black and Gold 86 Carrol Shelby Dayton Turbo Z in High School. Was a fun car and opened my eyes to boost way back then. Used to pick fights with the 5.0's of the day...LOL. Sub'd
My son is still picking on mustangs. In 89 and 90, chrysler in a moment of sheer brilliance, put that same shelby drivetrain..... a 2.5 liter, turbocharged four banger with a 5 speed on the floor manual trans in to the dodge caravan. They never knew what hit them.





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Old 08-26-2018, 11:43 PM
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Originally Posted by rkupon1 View Post
Awesome progress...so when am i dropping my nova off for a simple AAW classic update install? Seems like a walk in the park for ya!
We need to sit down and go over your killer Turbo Nova build wiring. Did you get the Holly harness and computer?
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Old 08-26-2018, 11:51 PM
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Wired in the fan controllers for both the oil and trans coolers.

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Old 08-28-2018, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by LSswap View Post
We need to sit down and go over your killer Turbo Nova build wiring. Did you get the Holly harness and computer?
yes, i have my holley dominator and new body wiring kit...but its been awhile, i ve since ditched my whole turbo ls2 set up...new build in the works for the nova NA LS7
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Old 08-29-2018, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by rkupon1 View Post
yes, i have my holley dominator and new body wiring kit...but its been awhile, i ve since ditched my whole turbo ls2 set up...new build in the works for the nova NA LS7
IDK... The NA LS7 setup will be alot cleaner in the engine bay, but you're not gonna get that 1000 whp. Well I guess you can always turbo it later.
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Old 08-29-2018, 09:24 PM
  #48  
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I've been doing more testing on the fan PWM controllers. I like them more and more. In fact, I've installed two more for my fuel pumps and they are working great.
The helper pump is just a plain pump that keeps the surge tank filled. It's a standard BMW fuel injection pump, but all it has to do is keep the surge tank filled at very low pressure. I think I will run that at about 60% since it's not doing much.

The primary pump is a wallbro 450. I want to insure that there are absolutely no losses to that pump, since under high boost, it will use lots of current. So in addition to the controller PWMing it, i've got a relay that backs up the PWM and turns on when PWM is at a high percentage (adjustable of course), lets say 95%. For testing, I ran the walbro 450 at 80 psi through the PWM controller, without the relay, and the controller did not get hot at all.

So the way it works now is when the ignition is first turned on, both pumps come on, the 450 is at full blast. If the engine isn't cranking, the helper pump stays on for 4 seconds and the 450 stays on for 2 seconds.
If the engine is cranking, both pumps are on and the 450 is at full blast. Once the engine starts, both pumps are PWMd based on boost level and RPM. Once the 450 pump gets up to 95% duty cycle, a 60 amp relay is turned on and the PWM controller is bypassed.


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Old 08-31-2018, 09:03 AM
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Awesome build! That transmission controller sounds wicked cool. Could you post more info on the linear actuators? I want to run something like that on my RS Camaro, but the $600 pricetag of the kits are a little steep for me.
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Old 08-31-2018, 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by ryeguy2006a View Post
Awesome build! That transmission controller sounds wicked cool. Could you post more info on the linear actuators? I want to run something like that on my RS Camaro, but the $600 pricetag of the kits are a little steep for me.
Here is a link to one. https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Inch-Line...0AAOSwXNNbatsa

They have an adjustable limit switch inside for maximum open and close length. if you apply 12V to one lead and ground the other, it will open (or close) and then stop by itself when it reaches the internal switch. If you reverse the polarity, it will go the other way and stop by itself.

I can draw you a little relay diagram on how to hook it up so it opens and closes if your headlights are on or off. all you need is a single relay, (and 2 diodes if you your low beams turn off when he high beams are on) nothing else.

They have different versions with different opening and closing speed versions. Usually the ones that claim they lift more weight are slower. The one is the link should be about 10 seconds for the full stroke.
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Old 08-31-2018, 09:10 PM
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Very cool and nice/ clean work. Keep it going
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Old 09-17-2018, 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by blueday View Post
Very cool and nice/ clean work. Keep it going
Thanks.

I took a break for a while to take a Caribbean vacation with my honey and after that, I was so motivated by Clinebarger and all the great info i got from him for my transmission build over the forum, that I started an electronics related DIY post to give back to the forum. I'm ready to get back to the vette.

Snorkeling in Honduras
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Old 10-24-2018, 08:01 PM
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The stock C3 corvette hood hinge location forces the nose of the hood to dive down into the engine compartment and take lots of space up front when it's open. I want some of that space back for the radiator and intercooler.

I fabricated a new hood hinge to pivot closer to the front of the car so that it doesn't dive as deep anymore. New and original hinge.


here's how it looks installed.




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Old 10-30-2018, 03:42 PM
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I'm doing alot of testing with the ignition on and engine not running. The O2 sensor heater is running constantly draining the battery.

So I installed a relay that keeps the heater power off until the RPM is over 300.
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Old 12-18-2018, 07:59 AM
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Just registered the vette. I looked at the pink slip and it turns out, it's not a 76. It's a 77.

I'm working on the nose. I didn't like the license plate area that looks sorta like this.




So I cut and started to re-glass it.



Here in NJ, we're required to have a front plate. I might hang it inside the hole on a hinge, so at speed, it will keep the air flowing.
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Old 12-18-2018, 08:02 AM
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I reinforced the fan shroud I built a long time ago, with two additional layers of fiberglass, and sealed up some of the gaps I left last time.

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Old 12-18-2018, 08:19 AM
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The radiator was sitting a little lower that I liked. Once I put the hood on, I noticed that I could raise it up about two inches,

So I raised it and angled it a little less. This also gave me an extra inch between the fan and the turbocharger. I also found that I could stand the Intercooler straight up now.

Here's the new look of the business end:











It all fits under a stock hood.
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Old 12-18-2018, 08:22 AM
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My alternator sits very close to the down pipe.





So I made a heat shield between them out of scrap aluminum. It mounts on the alternator screws. If it vibrates too much, I'll add two more mount tabs towards the front of the alternator.



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Old 12-18-2018, 08:23 AM
  #59  
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I'd like to add vents to the hood to get rid of some of the heat the turbo is going to make. It's going to have to be near the front of the hood. I've been looking around and haven't pulled the trigger on any yet. I even have one from a Shelby Charger, but it's kinda rectangular.

Any ideas would be appreciated.
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Old 12-18-2018, 08:48 AM
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Slight change of plans for the power steering. Instead of using the stock steering box with a electronic motor assist, I'm going with the Borgeson and an electric power steering pump. Four reasons...
(1) I ordered a replacement refurbished stock steering box and I had a huge amount of slop. Hello returns department.
(2) I like tighter lock to lock ratio on the Borgeson versus the stock replacement.
(3) the EPS (Hyundai) is going to be a pain to fit and find fittings for.
(3) I heard some of the EPS motors don't have good return to zero characteristics unless they are tied to a steering wheel angle sensor.

The pump I'm going with is from a Volvo. They are used on fairly heavy cars (C70 is 3800 lbs), so I like that better. It's a canbus controlled pump, but it has a default mode, so if there is no canbus, they turn on and run anyway after about 2 seconds. I'm guessing they don't run at full power in default mode.

At some later time, I'm going to try and figure out the canbus messages the pump is looking for and make it a speed sensitive power steering. My friend has access to a volvo scan tool that can exercise the power steering pump and I hope to eavesdrop on the messages in my daughters C70. I'm still amazed no one else has come up with the messages for any of the various canbus driven pumps and EPS units. Maybe they have and aren't sharing. Once I know the messages, it's cake to duplicate them based on my MPH.

This pump only needs 12v power/ground and a 12v signal to run in default mode The 12 volt power can go to a fuse and then directly to the battery. The 12 volt signal will be turned on only after the engine is running. I don't want an 80 amp load on the battery when the car isn't running yet or trying to start.

Bench test.



I was thinking about installing this in the back, but it would be a pain to check and fill the level. So instead, it's going under the master cylinder. The filler will be close to the washer fluid filler.





Got the fittings today. Bent up the tubing. Filled the Volvo PS pump with about 2 quarts of fluid. I now have power steering.
I can steer the front wheels by just twisting the rag joint by hand, although the wheels are still on a dolly. I can't budge the rag joint unless the pump is on.

I'll drop the front wheels onto the ground a little later and try it again.

The pump is 3 phase brushless.
The high pressure outlet is 16mm x 1.5, but its deep. The 16mm x 1.5 fitting that went to the Borgeson return was just a tad too short.
The return line is plastic barb that fit a 3/8" hose.
The ignition signal wire that turns the unit on only draws 2.2 milliamps, so almost any 12V signal can drive it. I tried it with 5V and that didn't work.
It definitely draws less amps when it's not turning.
I'm putting an 80 amp fuse on the supply lines direct to the battery.
The canbus wires are not connected at this time.

My controller will only turn it on after the engine is running. Hmm, is it worth letting it run for about 5 seconds after the engine stops, in case the engine stalls?
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