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Turbo C3 76 Corvette, 4l80E, 4 link rear, street cruiser/strip fighter

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Turbo C3 76 Corvette, 4l80E, 4 link rear, street cruiser/strip fighter

Old 12-29-2018, 11:01 AM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by JayinMI View Post
Yeah, I saw that. I seem to remember someone building a Shadow/Sundance with a 2.4L bottom end and 2.5L head some time ago.
Jay
Other way around but yes. Mine was a hybrid--- 89 2.5 block with a 87 2.2 crank and a 98 2.4 N/A head. Before there were SRT4s.

Originally Posted by JayinMI View Post
Ever heard of Matt Tripp?
Jay
Yeah, we were both on the all time fastest neons list.
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Old 12-29-2018, 09:52 PM
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Matt was good people, I think some stock parts from his car ended up on my first ACR.
What screen name were you using back then? (When you built the hybrid Neon)

Jay
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Old 12-30-2018, 12:20 AM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by JayinMI View Post
Matt was good people, I think some stock parts from his car ended up on my first ACR.
What screen name were you using back then? (When you built the hybrid Neon)

Jay
DblTrbl... picked that name because I started off with a twin turbo build in 2001. Would have kept the name on this board, but it was taken.
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Old 12-31-2018, 09:17 AM
  #84  
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Here's drag mode.



Upshifts are by RPM and only go to 3rd gear. No lockup. Downshifts are normal.
Two step is automatically turned on at launch time and automatically turned off when the brake pressure is reduced past a set point. I might implement a "Sloppy Brake" when the two step is on.
Drag mode is locked out unless shifter is in 3rd.
Boost targets are different for each gear and two step.
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Old 12-31-2018, 09:30 AM
  #85  
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I've also added a dyno mode.



Dyno mode shifts by touchscreen or paddles.
Shifter must be in 3rd.
It graphs AFR, RPM and Boost.
3rd gear can have lockup engaged before a pull
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Old 12-31-2018, 09:44 AM
  #86  
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All operating parameters can be changed without having to reprogram the Arduino.
Just pick one of the 150+ parameters, change the value and commit.

Here is boost target per gear in cruise and sport mode for example:


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Old 01-06-2019, 07:47 PM
  #87  
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Been productive since new years.

The body and chassis came together and will stay that way, hopefully for a long time. Installed poly body mounts.

The original shifter in the Vette was a three speed and was mangled anyway. I adapted an OD shifter from an 85-92 Camaro.Firebird with a 700R4. It took some persuading, but now it shifts the 4l80E in the Vette.

When I bought the Vette project, it came with tons of brand new replacement parts but didn't include a center console. So I'm probably going to make something eventually. I can't stand the cigarette lighter and ashtray anyway, so I'm probably going to replace it with USB charging ports and I'm going to install and inverter and outlet to power a laptop. Funny, it came with a brand new gauge panel, but I'm not going to use that.

Made mount for the slightly modified truck accelerator pedal assembly so it bolts into the original pedal mounting holes in the vette bulkhead.

Installed a line lock.

Installed a Willwood proportioning valve.

Got the brake lines plumbed in.

Fixed the slop in the steering wheel. It's a tilt and telescopic one. For the telescopic part, there is a key that slides in a groove and keyway. That's where the slop was. I didn't see any wear on the keyway and groove, but the key was too narrow somehow. So I welded some more material to the key and ground it flat again. Now it has no play.

The interior of the car was red. It's going to be black now. So I'll re-paint the steering column black before it goes back in.

I started to look at combining my wiring and all of the existing wiring. Took some time to label all the existing wires and relays and connectors so I can figure out what gets trashed and what gets left. Willcox had a reasonable schematic of the 77 wiring.
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Old 01-09-2019, 10:39 PM
  #88  
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I was warned that the MAXI fuseholders can't carry any descent current, so I cut one of my maxi fuse holders apart. Looks like I got lucky. The ones I got are different from Andrew's. It's got a two part housing, softer black plastic on the outside and a harder white one on the inside.

The terminal on mine was not crimped at all. Instead it was soldered. I would have preferred crimped and soldered, but I'm satisfied enough to use them in my car. The terminal has a very tight fit onto the fuse as well.


I got mine on Ebay. Since you can't see inside when you buy them, it's a crap-shoot . You might get ones like mine or some like Andrew's, They are cheap enough where you can buy extra ones and cut one apart. Andrew, Thanks for bringing it to the attention of the community.
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Old 01-10-2019, 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by LSswap View Post
I was warned that the MAXI fuseholders can't carry any descent current, so I cut one of my maxi fuse holders apart. Looks like I got lucky. The ones I got are different from Andrew's. It's got a two part housing, softer black plastic on the outside and a harder white one on the inside.

The terminal on mine was not crimped at all. Instead it was soldered. I would have preferred crimped and soldered, but I'm satisfied enough to use them in my car. The terminal has a very tight fit onto the fuse as well.


I got mine on Ebay. Since you can't see inside when you buy them, it's a crap-shoot . You might get ones like mine or some like Andrew's, They are cheap enough where you can buy extra ones and cut one apart. Andrew, Thanks for bringing it to the attention of the community.
I am glad that yours was fine. I would encourage anyone that uses these inexpensive, buy in bulk, maxi fuse holders to sacrifice one and see exactly how they were put together. The one I installed had one terminal that was literally holding on by a few wire threads.

I still prefer the Delphi OEM solution for maxi fuses. There are numerous modules that can be had at the junk yard in mid 90s GM vehicles. The have an integral bus bar that distributes power to several fuses and the terminals for the other side can be sourced from various vendors. They use Metripac 800 series terminals.

Andrew
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Old Today, 11:10 AM
  #90  
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I dropped the body to the frame for hopefully the last time, all my soldering will be under the dashboard which I don't look forward to. Gotta tie all my stuff the the original Vette wiring and install the heat/AC.



Built an adapter plate so now my truck, electronic gas pedal mounts to the original gas pedal mounting holes.
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Old Today, 11:19 AM
  #91  
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Now that the body and chassis are together, I hope they will stay that way for a long time. Installed the body with those red poly body mounts.

The original shifter in the Vette was a three speed and was mangled anyway. I adapted an OD shifter from an 85-92 Camaro/Firebird with a 700R4. It took some persuading, but now it shifts the 4l80E in the Vette. The original 3 speed shifter was off to the left, the new shifter is more centered on the console. I had to **** to Ebrake lever a little to the left to make the cable clear the bigger 1350 driveshaft joint.

When I bought the Vette project, it came with tons of brand new replacement parts but didn't include a center console. So I'm probably going to make something eventually. I can't stand the cigarette lighter and ashtray anyway, so I'm probably going to replace it with USB charging ports and I'm going to install and inverter with A/C outlet to power a laptop where the gauges used to be. Funny, there is a brand new gauge panel in the parts boxes, that I'm not going to use.

Installed a line lock.

Installed a Willwood proportioning valve.

Got the all brake lines plumbed in.

Fixed the slop in the steering column. It's a tilt and telescopic one. For the telescopic part, there is a key that slides in a groove and keyway. That's where the slop was. I didn't see any wear on the keyway and groove, but the key was too narrow somehow. So I welded some more material to the key and ground it flat again. Now it has no play.

The interior of the car was red. It's going to be black now. So I'll re-paint the steering column black before it goes back in.

I started to look at combining my wiring and all of the existing wiring. Took some time to label all the existing wires and relays and connectors so I can figure out what gets trashed and what gets left. Willcox had a reasonable schematic of the 77 wiring.
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Old Today, 11:30 AM
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I wasted alot of time trying to figure out what each wire did while the fusebox and interior harness were in the car. Finally I pulled out all the wiring in passenger area along with steering column so I could actually trace each wire and see where it went. I'm eliminating any unnecessary parts. I dragged the whole thing onto a workbench and started testing, tagging and cutting.



The schematic 1977 schematics helped somewhat, but nothing lets you know how stuff works better than testing it.
I used a battery and some lights to let me know exactly what's connected to what and what happens when I turn the ignition key, etc.

I'm going to re-purpose some of the thru firewall wires for whatever I need. Most won't get re-used. I'll reuse some for line lock, underhood courtesy light.....

I got rid of all the instrument lighting ( I no longer have a speedo, tach or any gauges), key warning, seat belt warning and a bunch of other stuff I don't need.

I'll tap the key start wire to supply power to the 4l80e neutral safety switch, then to the starter solenoid.
I'll tap the ignition on wire to let the AEM know the ignition is on.
I'll tie my chassis ground wire to the few black ground wires that are left.
I'll tie my 12V battery wire to the cluster of red battery power wires.
I'll tie the backup light wire and the brake light wire to something, I have a few choices.
I'll tap the accessory wire from the ignition switch for the new radio.
I'm planning on adding remote door locks.
The rest of the lighting circuits will be unchanged. Turn signal lights, overhead courtesy light, exterior lights close to original.
I'm adding a 400 watt A/C inverter with USB ports so I can run a laptop in the car and power the phone chargers. I think I'll power that from the accessory wire. The ashtray and cigarette lighter are gone.
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Old Today, 11:32 AM
  #93  
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Ran across a problem with the fusebox. I'm really happy I pulled it out or it would have bitten me in the *** later. Turns out some of the contacts for the fuses have some grayish corrosion and the fuse and the terminals don't make contact, even though they look tight. I hate the location of the fusebox anyway so I'm replacing the old fusebox with something a little more modern and relocate it near where the gauges used to be.

I'm going to incorporate the horn relay inside the new fusebox and some other relays I'm adding.



I would have really pulled out what little hair I had left if I hadn't caught this fusebox problem.

Back to some more wiring
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Old Today, 11:35 AM
  #94  
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new fuse box. I managed to get the hazard and turn signal flashers to fit along with the new horn relay. Have room for 2 more relays.

I only had to make a few wires longer in order to get the fusebox out of the black hole it was in, so now I can get to the fuses in the center console area.


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