1961 Impala 2 door hard top mild custom - Page 7 - LS1TECH - Camaro and Firebird Forum Discussion



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1961 Impala 2 door hard top mild custom

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Old 03-03-2017, 07:25 PM   #121
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Who's your driveshaft shop?
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North Manufacturing. I'll PM you his number as these guys sometimes get weird talking about non-sponsors.
Count me in, too, on that local go-pole shop. My old guy in Oceanside, Ca is a long way off now that I'm back in a free state. I'll need one done when this starts coming together.
Thanks!
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Old 03-03-2017, 09:53 PM   #122
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Thanks for the number. I actually saw one of they're trucks on the highway on my way home from work the other day, I hadn't heard of them before. I'll have to swing by and see about getting my shaft shortened. My driveshaft I mean....
Hey man, whatever makes you and your lady happy! Haha!!!



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Count me in, too, on that local go-pole shop. My old guy in Oceanside, Ca is a long way off now that I'm back in a free state. I'll need one done when this starts coming together.
Thanks!
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Old 03-06-2017, 06:11 AM   #123
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Work is more insane than trying to teach monkeys and chickens to hula hoop and line dance in unison. As such, Iím not getting to the shop each day like I normally do.

Some of what Iím doing I will need a bead roller and I have always wanted one but donít know if Iíll use it enough to warrant a nice unit. I didnít want to spend a ton of money on a specialty tool and have it collect dust so I bought a junk tool store cheapie. I rarely buy junk tools becauseÖ well most of them are junk, but I like their blue nitrile gloves for messy work. Initially $139, now closeout at $99, but the only four in the city were all open boxes at $79 minus my 20% coupon plus The Uncleís cutÖ

Reading reviews on this thing tell you people must be bead rolling something slightly more stout than aluminum cans or itís a giant POS with no middle ground. After one small scrap of 20 gauge mild steel I knew reinforcing the thing was my only viable plan. Initially the unit was flexible like a swimming noodle so I whipped up some scrap 1x1 box tubing and made a frame like a letter c, cleaned the paint from the back side and welded it all together. Itís better, but still has a bit of flex by hand so Iíll add an additional strengthening rib. Most important, now it is at least functional for my needs.


Quick video of the flex Iím trying to eliminate.




A few photos of the progressÖ
















First couple practice beads after the modification.





I hope to have some more pictures soon. Iíve been working, but due to time restrictions I havenít taken a lot of images.
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Old 03-13-2017, 01:16 AM   #124
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In this installment I decided to flatten the area of the trunk floor that interferes with a brace that goes behind the seat. The reproduction panel is made slightly different than my original and I opted to modify the piece you canít see instead of the bracket that is partially visible. Honestly I could modify either part as neither is very visible from any point I just felt this was the stronger way to do it.


Here you can see the hump I need to remove and the difference in height to the surrounding ribs.




Cut out the top with relief cuts to help fold the panel flat.






Cleaned the area.



Filled the hole, welded everything solid and ground flush. I really needed to remember this will never be seen by anyone after I install the additional brace that goes on top of this. Oh well, it helps my OCD I guess.



Finished result. Now the front edge of the panel is the same height on all the ribs.



Back side.





Next task is removing the remaining rust and creating a patch in the passenger side inner wheel well.

Area to be repaired.



Rough patch panel before shaping and trimming.



Basic shape with 90į bend to duplicate factory spot welding flange.



Getting close to the finished shape but I broke my last blade in my air saw. Iíll have to buy more and finish trimming this panel and the car to match.




Hope you enjoy. Thanks for looking.
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Old 03-16-2017, 04:03 PM   #125
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Really nice work. You sir, are a tin bender!
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Old 03-16-2017, 06:21 PM   #126
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i'm gonna snag one of them bead rollers and do that!

you should post that in the tools and fab section !
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Old 03-16-2017, 10:46 PM   #127
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You should. If you saw the video, you can see how pathetically flimsy it was.


That is a thought, however it wasn't my idea and it's all over the internet. I simply did it.
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Old 03-16-2017, 10:54 PM   #128
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Today is a perfect example of why just one lonely little hour can make a large dent in progress on your project. On my last session I broke an air saw blade and wasnít able to finish trimming the patch panel and car to fit together with a minimal gap. It was getting late and I needed to work the next day so I called it an evening.

Tonight, Iíve had a long week at work and needed a mental break from a fast paced, high stress environment called my day job. Armed with new blades I trimmed the patch panel and wheel well for a tight fit. I clamped everything while confirming the fit and started tack welding the two panels together. Of course I could easily save a lot of drama by flanging one of the panels, overlapping the two and plug welding them together but that is lame in my book. I want a fully metal finished panel with minimal filler and no visible seams on either side.

For this area I used the MIG welder as it is much simpler in awkward positions than the TIG with a foot pedal. The process I use is fairly time consuming: fit panel, tack, cool, move clamp, adjust fit, tack about an inch away, cool, move clamp, adjust fit... and so on. All while trying to get enough heat for full penetration, but not enough to warp the panel or burn through and create additional work.

Tonightís result:




Remember, according to my time clock app I only spent just one hour this evening Ė 20:52 to 21:54.


Hopefully I can throw down a couple hours tomorrow.
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Old 03-17-2017, 07:39 AM   #129
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fantastic work as always!

have you ever tried a trigger on your tig torch? I use a slider type at work that really great and have a simple on-off on my AHP at home. really useful for fitting up parts on the car.
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Old 03-18-2017, 12:26 AM   #130
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Thanks a lot Doug.

No, I haven't. Coincidentally I thought about adding a trigger switch to the TIG torch while I was working in the trunk. It's something I really should do but I haven't looked into it.

That would also require me to actually adjust the amperage to the proper number instead of leaving it where it's set and controlling it with my foot. Hahaha. I know this isn't the best technique, but it's a habit I've gotten into for some odd reason.
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Old 03-18-2017, 07:45 AM   #131
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so I have been without the trigger on some screwy repair jobs out on the coast, and just placed the pedal between my legs ( i was lying on my side)

I got the idea from watching a pedal steel guitar player, they use foot pedals and several knee levers to raise and lower the string tension.

What kind of machine do you have? I have a extra ck slide trigger wired for a lincoln i'm trying to get rid of
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Old 03-18-2017, 08:14 AM   #132
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Very interesting and creative. I've seen pedal steel players and I wouldn't have thought of doing that with the TIG foot pedal. Of course if I'm laying on my side I can usually MIG what I'm working on.

The machine I use is a well used Thermal Arc 300GTSW on semi-permanent loan from a friend. He moved and doesn't have a shop so he is storing it here. Our agreement is I can use it as much as I need (obviously I buy my own consumables) and he gets free storage.

The problem is I'm screwed when he decides he has space again and needs it back because I'll have to buy a replacement. It's been here long enough that it feels like it's mine.
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Old 03-18-2017, 09:12 AM   #133
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yeah wow thats a very nice machine.

I like my AHP but it's beginning to frustrate me since I havent found an easy way to hook up a cooler and do a lot of aluminum
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Old 03-19-2017, 10:53 PM   #134
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It is a nice machine - far nicer than my skills!

I bought some aluminum scrap so I can play with betting better on it before I need to weld something I need to look nice.
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Old 03-19-2017, 11:24 PM   #135
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I made some more photo worthy progress last night. I filled in a patch on the driverís side inner wheel well that wasnít covered in my original piece.

A few clamps to hold everything in place for plug welds.







Plug welded, but now the edge needs to be rolled and trimmed to match the factory piece.






Finished result looks like I wasnít there. Iím leaving the slight imperfections as every one of these cars Iíve seen has someÖ unless my OCD takes over at bodywork time.






The biggest happy moment of the evening, the final upper trunk pan fitting. In these pictures it is held in with 40 or more sheet metal screws and hasnít been welded.











Until next time.
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Old 03-20-2017, 07:20 AM   #136
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The biggest happy moment of the evening, the final upper trunk pan fitting. In these pictures it is held in with 40 or more sheet metal screws and hasn’t been welded.
I'm guessing it's because sheet metal screws are cheap and fast but curious if you've ever used clecos?

Tipsy
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Old 03-20-2017, 10:03 AM   #137
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Dude...you make this stuff look easy. Awesome work.
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Old 03-20-2017, 11:59 PM   #138
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I'm guessing it's because sheet metal screws are cheap and fast but curious if you've ever used clecos[/URL]?

Tipsy
I have not used clecos personally and when I started doing this stuff almost 30 years ago no one I knew used them. I also didn't know where to get them which wouldn't have mattered since I didn't have the money to buy more than a handful which isn't enough to finish a project. I know they need exact sized holes and they can't be the cheap ones or you have fitment and clamping problems.

Since I have used hex head self tapping screws for so long I really don't see a ton of benefit unless you are doing several fit ups like hand making a quarter panel or fender. With self tapping screws you can get over aggressive with the drill and strip the hole. For replacement floors and such I like screws because I hit it once with the drill and it's done. I can also use them and some hammer work to pull panels together slightly before welding. For things where I butt weld my panels I use the screws to hold the panels so I can make a cut through both at the same time or scribe a line on one panel and trim it for the best fit. I realize clecos are perfect for that task.

Now that I'm older and have a bit more disposable income (especially for tools and car parts) I may invest in some one day - especially since Eastwood sells a pack of 30 for $30 and a starter 10 pack with the release tool for about the same.



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Dude...you make this stuff look easy. Awesome work.
Thanks a lot. It's a lot of time consuming hard work, but it's also relaxing in a demented sort of way.
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Old 03-21-2017, 07:59 AM   #139
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Now that I'm older and have a bit more disposable income (especially for tools and car parts) I may invest in some one day - especially since Eastwood sells a pack of 30 for $30 and a starter 10 pack with the release tool for about the same.
Anyplace that sells tools for kit/home built aircraft is a good source as well, like Aircraft Spruce.

Tipsy
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Old 03-22-2017, 07:35 PM   #140
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Anyplace that sells tools for kit/home built aircraft is a good source as well, like Aircraft Spruce.

Tipsy
True, and I have an aircraft place locally. I still don't see much benefit (beyond owning more cool tools, no stripping and higher re-usability factor) for employing them over sheet metal screws. Still something to ponder.
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