1961 Impala 2 door hard top mild custom
02-22-2017, 04:41 AM
#103
My job has been crazy so I’ve been forced to slow my pace on the car. As such I’m still knee deep in a project I had hoped to have completed. Of course my day job is how I afford to feed my car habit so I really shouldn’t complain too much...
Anyway.
My goal is to cut out any major rust and replace the metal for the floors. The worst bit of rust for this segment is pictured in the following sequence of images. Hopefully you can understand the extent of the damage and my steps to repair it.
Here is the passenger side rear wheel well. Clearly visible are some of the rust holes helping aid the optional trunk ventilation system I’m working to eliminate.
Cut out the rusted section.
Quick paper template, notice my patch metal is too short. This was the longest piece of 20 gauge I had on hand so I extended the patch metal with another bit of scrap using the TIG without filler wire. I then hit the extension area panel with my DA and the weld almost disappears. From the outside this area will be undercoated in some way and the inside will be finished and painted at a future point.
There is a jog in the original panel, presumably for strength, that I will need to duplicate. I got creative with my sheet metal brake since I don’t have a bead roller – yet.
Now I created the curve in the panel that mimics the original. I held it in place with some sheet metal screws to check fitment and mark the panel for trimming.
Thanks a lot for following along.
Anyway.
My goal is to cut out any major rust and replace the metal for the floors. The worst bit of rust for this segment is pictured in the following sequence of images. Hopefully you can understand the extent of the damage and my steps to repair it.
Here is the passenger side rear wheel well. Clearly visible are some of the rust holes helping aid the optional trunk ventilation system I’m working to eliminate.
Cut out the rusted section.
Quick paper template, notice my patch metal is too short. This was the longest piece of 20 gauge I had on hand so I extended the patch metal with another bit of scrap using the TIG without filler wire. I then hit the extension area panel with my DA and the weld almost disappears. From the outside this area will be undercoated in some way and the inside will be finished and painted at a future point.
There is a jog in the original panel, presumably for strength, that I will need to duplicate. I got creative with my sheet metal brake since I don’t have a bead roller – yet.
Now I created the curve in the panel that mimics the original. I held it in place with some sheet metal screws to check fitment and mark the panel for trimming.
Thanks a lot for following along.
02-23-2017, 06:14 AM
#104
This session I decided to work on a slightly different area to keep the motivation going through variety. I took some measurements from the replacement panel and compared it to the piece I removed. Immediately obvious was a missing reinforcement at the leading edge of the panel.
Quick hit with the DA reveals low spots that are likely spot welds.
Spot welds drilled.
Here we have an additional hump in the replacement panel that doesn’t exist on the original. This area interferes with the bracket I removed from the original panel so it needs to be removed or the bracket needs to be modified to fit. I am choosing to modify the panel as my work will be hidden under the bracket.
As always, thanks for looking.
Quick hit with the DA reveals low spots that are likely spot welds.
Spot welds drilled.
Here we have an additional hump in the replacement panel that doesn’t exist on the original. This area interferes with the bracket I removed from the original panel so it needs to be removed or the bracket needs to be modified to fit. I am choosing to modify the panel as my work will be hidden under the bracket.
As always, thanks for looking.
02-23-2017, 11:17 AM
#106
Pretty damn good bro !!!
02-23-2017, 02:44 PM
#108
Passenger side patch panel installed and partially metal finished.
I removed most of the trunk floor to make working easier.
Driver side of same wheel area requires a smaller patch.
While I was here and it was easy to access I removed most of the remaining paint in the trunk with my DA.
I removed most of the trunk floor to make working easier.
Driver side of same wheel area requires a smaller patch.
While I was here and it was easy to access I removed most of the remaining paint in the trunk with my DA.
02-24-2017, 09:34 AM
#110
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Wow you really are a sheetmetal wizard! I have a 61 4dr hardtop and my trunk did the exact same deal yours did. I've been pulling my hair out to find out what the hell was going on, never thought about the pins. Thanks for all the info. I, for one, truly appreciate it.
02-25-2017, 04:11 PM
#111
Wow you really are a sheetmetal wizard! I have a 61 4dr hardtop and my trunk did the exact same deal yours did. I've been pulling my hair out to find out what the hell was going on, never thought about the pins. Thanks for all the info. I, for one, truly appreciate it.
I'm glad to be of help Cuttin up. I've had the problem get progressively worse for years and even witnessed a guy at a show with the same issue on a 64. It wasn't until I disassembled the entire trunk hinge mechanism I realsied the true root cause.
02-25-2017, 04:20 PM
#112
A quick session today netted a bit of patch fabrication for the driver’s side.
As a refresher, I started with this:
I forgot to take a bunch of pictures but you know the basic drill. Find rust and remove it. Make a template for the area removed, fab a patch and make it oversize, make the patch fit the contours, trim to fit, weld it in, dress the welds and make it disappear without filler.
After: The welds on the left need to be taken care of, but the work on the right is complete.
The patch was intentionally left oversize to be trimmed later just like the passenger's side.
As a refresher, I started with this:
I forgot to take a bunch of pictures but you know the basic drill. Find rust and remove it. Make a template for the area removed, fab a patch and make it oversize, make the patch fit the contours, trim to fit, weld it in, dress the welds and make it disappear without filler.
After: The welds on the left need to be taken care of, but the work on the right is complete.
The patch was intentionally left oversize to be trimmed later just like the passenger's side.
02-28-2017, 11:18 AM
#113
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Sorry to get off course from the sheet metal work, but what are your plans for a driveshaft now that it's super charged? I'm assuming the stock shaft with a slip added to the rear section and the HD carrier bearing isn't wise, I may try it anyway though. The pre-made shafts are pretty pricey from the digging around I have done, besides, the x frame makes a great DS hoop 
02-28-2017, 06:43 PM
#114
Not a problem.
Need for driveshaft strength is directly proportionate to power output, traction and the abusiveness of your right foot. I make decent power, but I have zero traction and I'm gentle on this setup. However I can bake one tire (open differential) from a 30 roll until the car starts to turn due to the mismatched tire speed.
Having said that, I'm replacing the factory 2.5" two piece driveshaft with a 3" steel two piece driveshaft, solid carrier bearing and slip yoke at the axle this summer. I am changing the rear axle to a limited slip with discs and once I change the axle I'll change the driveshaft and modify the rear floor section to clear. Since my car is lowered the driveshaft used to rub slightly on the floor under the rear seat if the car was loaded and I hit a large bump. It hasn't done this since I replaced the floor, but I pushed the offending area up a bit, added the convertible body mounts and replaced all four springs. I'll likely need to raise the floor slightly in that area for good measure with the larger diameter shaft.
That setup is fine if you have your angles right and the driveshaft is properly balanced. My car can go any speed up to 100 MPH (fastest I've gone with the setup) without vibration. Box trucks rarely have driveshaft failures using carrier bearings, multiple shafts and slip yokes while hauling heavy loads all day long.
I live in a big city and there is a small shop local to me that will make driveshafts to any spec I choose. I tell him what I need on each end and how long to make it. Less than 24 hours later I'm getting a phone call saying it's finished. Driveshafts from him are always right, always on time and I have never had or heard of anyone with a vibration or failure.
Need for driveshaft strength is directly proportionate to power output, traction and the abusiveness of your right foot. I make decent power, but I have zero traction and I'm gentle on this setup. However I can bake one tire (open differential) from a 30 roll until the car starts to turn due to the mismatched tire speed.
Having said that, I'm replacing the factory 2.5" two piece driveshaft with a 3" steel two piece driveshaft, solid carrier bearing and slip yoke at the axle this summer. I am changing the rear axle to a limited slip with discs and once I change the axle I'll change the driveshaft and modify the rear floor section to clear. Since my car is lowered the driveshaft used to rub slightly on the floor under the rear seat if the car was loaded and I hit a large bump. It hasn't done this since I replaced the floor, but I pushed the offending area up a bit, added the convertible body mounts and replaced all four springs. I'll likely need to raise the floor slightly in that area for good measure with the larger diameter shaft.
That setup is fine if you have your angles right and the driveshaft is properly balanced. My car can go any speed up to 100 MPH (fastest I've gone with the setup) without vibration. Box trucks rarely have driveshaft failures using carrier bearings, multiple shafts and slip yokes while hauling heavy loads all day long.
I live in a big city and there is a small shop local to me that will make driveshafts to any spec I choose. I tell him what I need on each end and how long to make it. Less than 24 hours later I'm getting a phone call saying it's finished. Driveshafts from him are always right, always on time and I have never had or heard of anyone with a vibration or failure.
02-28-2017, 09:11 PM
#115
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That seems to be the cure all for these x frames, did you go 1350 joints or still 1310? I'm planning on leaning on lack of traction to help keep my junk in one piece too haha! I talked to a sales guy from Inland Empire driveline today, just shy of $800 for a 1350 shaft just like you are describing with 3" tube and all, I'm not sure I can justify that.. I may just hill billy hot mod the factory shaft for now. I build a lot of shafts in my garage for my 4x4 toys without issue, so I may build my own for this to get it rolling and revisit if I have a failure or vibration. Anyway, I'll let you get back to learning us more about sheet metal work than I thought possible! 
02-28-2017, 09:58 PM
#117
I live in a big city and there is a small shop local to me that will make driveshafts to any spec I choose. I tell him what I need on each end and how long to make it. Less than 24 hours later I'm getting a phone call saying it's finished. Driveshafts from him are always right, always on time and I have never had or heard of anyone with a vibration or failure.
03-03-2017, 12:04 AM
#119
That seems to be the cure all for these x frames, did you go 1350 joints or still 1310? I'm planning on leaning on lack of traction to help keep my junk in one piece too haha! I talked to a sales guy from Inland Empire driveline today, just shy of $800 for a 1350 shaft just like you are describing with 3" tube and all, I'm not sure I can justify that.. I may just hill billy hot mod the factory shaft for now. I build a lot of shafts in my garage for my 4x4 toys without issue, so I may build my own for this to get it rolling and revisit if I have a failure or vibration. Anyway, I'll let you get back to learning us more about sheet metal work than I thought possible!
I haven't done it yet because I haven't swapped differentials and can't get an accurate measurement until that task is complete. His turnaround has always been a day or two and usually less, I see no reason to rush just to have parts sitting on the shelf.
I'll use whatever u-joints he suggests. I think I typically end up with 1350's but I can't remember. Sometimes I have different u-joints on each end depending on what I'm working with.
The guys at Inland Empire are smoking some good stuff. Their prices are always high. I have never paid anywhere near that for a custom driveshaft.
I know this one will be expensive: three u-joints, transmission yoke, carrier bearing yoke, billet carrier bearing (already have), slip yoke in the rear and two tubes. Even still, I can't imagine my guy would be anywhere near $800 for a steel setup.
Thanks for the compliment. Actually, I'm an amateur compared to the old timers who showed me!