truckdoug

iTrader: (25)

like a glove!

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

An entire inch? Geez, that's like two miles on my Thunderbird. My hood clearance on that car was under half an inch with the Corvette intake. Hahaha!

Glad to see you making progress.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

Hopefully part of the plan includes some more modern brakes. Stopping is kind of important...just saying...

Andrew

broke_as_a_joke

Yeah I'm pretty satisfied with it!

Thanks! It is 3/8" off the cross member in places but especially with solid mounts that's fine, if I decide to go poly I would expect that to still be okay.

No collapsible steering shaft, X frame, no seat belts, single pot master with 4 wheel drums ( with the rears cranked way down for burnouts of course) and 500hp... When I die, I will die like a man.

I'm joking. (about the brakes part lol) I'm debating between the speedway motors 2" drop spindle and disc set up, or the scare bird brackets on factory spindles. I'm really not sure I want to lower it 2", I've also read horror stories of loosing a significant amount of turning radius and other issues. Any input is welcome! I am still thinking I'm going to put a ford 8.8 in the rear with the shafts and rotor redrilled to chevy pattern, or perhaps my budget may limit me to running the stock rear and drums for a little while at least (until it explodes).

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

That is funny!

I'm running CPP 2" drop spindles and 13.5" brakes. Turning radius is about the same as before. They sell the same kit (or a variety of others) without the 2" drop. Look at my build thread for details on my brake setup.

broke_as_a_joke

I did the finish welding on the motor mounts, sprayed them, put them on, and dropped the motor in for hopefully the last time for a while, then I moved on to a trans mount, I figured with the motor on solid mounts the trans mount wouldn't have to be anything special so I grabbed one from the stock application for the trans, (1997 G 2500 van) and bolted it up. I decided to just shorten the factory trans cross member, I just clamped it in the chop saw and cut a few inches out of each side and welded it back together. I got the frame side mounts mocked up on the driver side, I am also going to cut a piece of material to fit across the top of the tabs off the frame to create a box like the factory ones were.

broke_as_a_joke

Sorry for the lack of updates! I got the trans cross member buttoned up, the wiring harness is getting there, I was too wrapped up in it (no pun intended ) to take any pictures. I also got the turbo hung yesterday, it came out alright for a first go around. I'm going to modify the merge a bit to lay the turbo down closer to the inner fender, so that I can mount the waste gate between the turbo and the belt tensioner. Then I will finish the harness. I sort of got to a point with the harness where I didn't have the o2s in, didn't have a 2 Bar map yet, my ev1 pigtails hadn't shown up yet, so I just called it quits and moved on. The map showed up from on3, injector pigtails should be here any day now. Then I'll have a better idea of where everything lives and can loom up the harness and mount the PCM. A fuel system and HP tuners is all that's holding me back from firing it it think. I was thinking about using an AEM 380, can I make it draw through a factory 3/8 sender? Or do I absolutely need to sump the tank? Those tanks ready made for an in tank pump are too expensive for me.

4EyedTurd1

iTrader: (1)

I planned on running the stock tank as well in my 64 with an inline pump but I've got no experience and hadn't figured out how or where I'd put a return yet. So I'm interested in what you find out

broke_as_a_joke

Well I ended up calling AEM and they said I'd be totally fine making the pump draw through the factory sender, but after a conversation with a buddy that has built a few turbo LS rigs and talked me into sumping the factory tank.






Making progress still! Slowly but surely. Hoping to have a buddy tig up the sump to my tank soon, and planning to button up the wiring harness in the next week or so. HP tuners has arrived (I don't know wtf to do with it ) but I'll work on figuring that out too.

4EyedTurd1

iTrader: (1)

Looks good so far, what's your fuel setup gonna be?

Motown 454

iTrader: (15)

I just read this from the beginning, nice project. I love the body style on the 61's I'll be watching for more progress.

broke_as_a_joke

I bought a new factory tank, a weld on sump, and a new factory sender. I couldn't talk myself into dropping the coin on an EFI intank pump and I hate fuel cells. I am going to run an AEM 380. The plan is a -10 AN from the sump to the pump, and immediately convert the -6 AN from the pump to hardline, with a factory thread on fuel filter, and I have a long length of the factory lines from the fuel rail to about the middle of the truck I'll flare and put a union to my hardline from the filter. I'm going to cut the pickup off the factory sender, and use it as the return line.

Me too! Thanks!

socal57chevy

iTrader: (1)

Man I love these cars! My old man used to race a '61 2DHT w/409 in the early 60s. (among other things)
Great build and on the same type of budget as me. Can't believe this is the first time I've seen this thread. Looking forward to seeing it burn gas!

A_Pinstriper

iTrader: (1)

Seeing this thread gives me a bit of relief on swapping the 4L80 in my '61 Nomad wagon and not having to cut up the brand new floor pans I welded in it. Haha.

I am about to get the front clip bolted back on my car to figure out where I want the turbos (going with 2 BW s366 knockoffs from VS) to mount.

broke_as_a_joke

Cool! I just read through you're thread! Nice work!!! My 80e is touching my tunnel in one spot, on the very top of the trans, right in front of the tail housing. I opted to just let it be as I'm confident that with fresh body mounts it will clear. If it squeaks or something I'll spray it with some Fluid Film haha!

4EyedTurd1

iTrader: (1)

Whaaaat?! I've been missing your updates on dfwmustangs, I didn't know you had a thread on here.

A_Pinstriper

iTrader: (1)

Thanks man, I haven't updated that thread in foreverrrrr. I have some new additions in the form of twin 66's that will be added very shortly so I will get back to updating the thread soon.

I am running solid engine mounts and I'll flatten the body pinch weld/seam if I have to for trans clearance.

Man, it's been a long *** time since I've updated my thread here or on DFWM but I'm getting back to work on it so I'll be updating shortly. ;-)

-Aaron

broke_as_a_joke

Despite the lack of updates I have been making good progress! I'm getting very close to trying to fire it! I rolled it out of the garage to do some maintenance on the daily drivers, I snapped a few pics while it was outside!






Since these were taken I got the wiring harness just about done, mounted a trans cooler where the front license plate belongs (don't have front plates in Michigan) and I dropped the tank off to a welder to burn the sump onto it.

Maybe some guys that have done this before can give me some advice, I am thinking I will put a brake switch for a square body chev with cruise, if I'm correct it will save me from adding a relay as explained on LT1 swap.com for the TCC wire to the PCM. I am also pretty sure that I don't have a wire from the ignition switch that remains hot while cranking, so any input on that would be appreciated!

Jimbo1367

Andrew,
LOL. I really like your posts. They're very well thought out (to me, LOL) and hulpful. Funny sometimes too.

broke_as_a_joke

FINALLY got this uploaded to photobucket. You can see the PCM mount, the fuse block, and I bolted the factory battery junction to its original location. I plan to mount a battery in the trunk and run wire up to the junction. Unfortunately some idiot (me) cut the wire from the junction to the starter so I have to make one of those too.