1993 Mustang Coupe LS1 Tremec 3550
#161
Well Hurricane Harvey brought my progress to a stop. Was at the Fire Station for about 8 days straight, then once I got away from work I've been tied up helping friends with flooded houses, ripping out sheetrock and basically throwing everything they own out on the curb. We received approximately 50" of rain in about 4 days. Luckily my house was high and dry and the car is fine.
I did get some things done on the car before the storm got here, I just havent had any time to update.
I had to order a set of Maximum Motorsports rear disc brake hoses because the banjo fittings on the stock hoses were hitting on the 15x10 Racestars.
Bolted right in and cleared the wheel fine
I also decided to go ahead and grab ARP wheel studs for the front and rear. I picked up a 39/64" drill bit to drill out the front hubs for the ARP studs which are .625". The rears work without drilling. I also went ahead and picked up the Lisle wheel stud install tool which works awesome! It basically has a bearing so as you pull it in with a lug nut it cuts the friction and makes it much easier than just using a lug nut.
Rear studs installed (wheel stud tool pictured)
Front caliper adapter bracket and studs installed
Front rotors and calipers installed
Kevlar brake lines and adapters for front calipers
The 17x4.5 Racestars clear no problem
Here are a few more pictures of the calipers
So that's about where it was when I left for the storm. It was still up on the jack stands just in case lol. Luckily that wasn't the case. Still need to get my front tires ordered.
I did get some things done on the car before the storm got here, I just havent had any time to update.
I had to order a set of Maximum Motorsports rear disc brake hoses because the banjo fittings on the stock hoses were hitting on the 15x10 Racestars.
Bolted right in and cleared the wheel fine
I also decided to go ahead and grab ARP wheel studs for the front and rear. I picked up a 39/64" drill bit to drill out the front hubs for the ARP studs which are .625". The rears work without drilling. I also went ahead and picked up the Lisle wheel stud install tool which works awesome! It basically has a bearing so as you pull it in with a lug nut it cuts the friction and makes it much easier than just using a lug nut.
Rear studs installed (wheel stud tool pictured)
Front caliper adapter bracket and studs installed
Front rotors and calipers installed
Kevlar brake lines and adapters for front calipers
The 17x4.5 Racestars clear no problem
Here are a few more pictures of the calipers
So that's about where it was when I left for the storm. It was still up on the jack stands just in case lol. Luckily that wasn't the case. Still need to get my front tires ordered.
#162
Finally found a little time to work on the car.
I ordered a set of Mickey Thompson Sportsman SR 26x6x17 tires for the front.
255/60/15 M/T drag radials for the rear
Got everything mounted and balanced, and put them on the car. I'm VERY happy with how they turned out!
I also ordered my rod for my battery disconnect.
Installed (trim panels only removed for install)
I have an extra taillight lens that I drilled to allow the rod to pass through. I'll put that one on for track trips. For normal daily driving I'll pull the rod out and stick the stock taillight lens on.
Finished buttoning the exhaust back up and took it for a ride!
I ordered a set of Mickey Thompson Sportsman SR 26x6x17 tires for the front.
255/60/15 M/T drag radials for the rear
Got everything mounted and balanced, and put them on the car. I'm VERY happy with how they turned out!
I also ordered my rod for my battery disconnect.
Installed (trim panels only removed for install)
I have an extra taillight lens that I drilled to allow the rod to pass through. I'll put that one on for track trips. For normal daily driving I'll pull the rod out and stick the stock taillight lens on.
Finished buttoning the exhaust back up and took it for a ride!
#167
Um, not sure how to say this, but freaking stop!!!! Each time I look at your build makes me want another fox. Can't wait to see this, been really thinking about the lsa.
Stampede.
Stampede.
#170
Swapping out to CTS-V front accessories instead of the F-body accessories I have. Will have a ZL1 lid instead of the CTS-V lid. I'll be running the Olson Kustom Works adapters to bolt the square port blower to my cathedral port heads.
#171
DAM i love the wheels! great look..man it looks bad-A..i have a quick ? for you on your ac...what temp does the motor run with the ac on? i'm struggling with some temps after i added the stock fox body condensor. i'm not alarmed yet but i havent hooked up the rest of it....man you are changing stuff all the time!!
#172
DAM i love the wheels! great look..man it looks bad-A..i have a quick ? for you on your ac...what temp does the motor run with the ac on? i'm struggling with some temps after i added the stock fox body condensor. i'm not alarmed yet but i havent hooked up the rest of it....man you are changing stuff all the time!!
#173
hmmm, i had a stock fbody rad and it would go over 200 when temps were in the 80's, i changed to a 2 core alum and added the condensor..now i see 195 -200 cruising with 65-70 degree temps? thats at 3k 60mph..when i let it idle it goes right down to 180 and the fans shut off. i also have the holley yea the fan controller works nice!!
#174
hmmm, i had a stock fbody rad and it would go over 200 when temps were in the 80's, i changed to a 2 core alum and added the condensor..now i see 195 -200 cruising with 65-70 degree temps? thats at 3k 60mph..when i let it idle it goes right down to 180 and the fans shut off. i also have the holley yea the fan controller works nice!!
#175
yes that is what i'm using to control the fans . i have the twin f-body fans in their own shroud..they seem to move alot of air. i'm wondering if i went backward by changing to the 2 core alum. i used one of these on an f-body before and it never went above 190? my mustang seems to run hottest at cruise which is what is throwing me off..with stock f-body rad. it ran hottest at idle not cruise. why cant things just be simple !! lol
#176
Its going to take me some time to gather parts for the LSA swap, but I did go ahead and make some changes in preparation for the swap. I had a Texas Speed MS3 cam which was not going to be ideal for the blower setup. So I wanted to go ahead and get that changed out, along with changing to CTS-V front accessories instead of the F-body accessories I had.
So I grabbed some parts:
CTS-V water pump and Cometic gaskets
CTS-V front accessories
LSA balancer
Texas Speed Cam
Texas Speed valve springs
GM Performance oil pump
LS2 timing chain
Comp Cams Trunnion upgrade
I also grabbed a crank pin kit and ARP balancer bolt
I ordered the CTS-V power steering fitting/reducer from TurnOne to adapt to the 6an fitting. Its made specifically for the CTS-V pump in order to clear the pulley and to reduce the pressure to be compatible with the Mustang steering rack.
I went ahead ordered the ICT Billet alternator bracket that allows you to run a truck alternator (or almost any other LS Alternator) instead of the CTS-V alternator, which is the only thing that will work with the stock CTS-V alternator bracket. I picked up a 145amp truck alternator for it.
Also had to cruise the hose racks at Oreilly's to come up with new radiator hoses to work with the CTS-V pump.
Got everything buttoned back up. The only thing I'm lacking is the AC which I'm going to have to make some changes too. But I'm able to drive it again while I gather parts for the LSA blower install.
So I grabbed some parts:
CTS-V water pump and Cometic gaskets
CTS-V front accessories
LSA balancer
Texas Speed Cam
Texas Speed valve springs
GM Performance oil pump
LS2 timing chain
Comp Cams Trunnion upgrade
I also grabbed a crank pin kit and ARP balancer bolt
I ordered the CTS-V power steering fitting/reducer from TurnOne to adapt to the 6an fitting. Its made specifically for the CTS-V pump in order to clear the pulley and to reduce the pressure to be compatible with the Mustang steering rack.
I went ahead ordered the ICT Billet alternator bracket that allows you to run a truck alternator (or almost any other LS Alternator) instead of the CTS-V alternator, which is the only thing that will work with the stock CTS-V alternator bracket. I picked up a 145amp truck alternator for it.
Also had to cruise the hose racks at Oreilly's to come up with new radiator hoses to work with the CTS-V pump.
Got everything buttoned back up. The only thing I'm lacking is the AC which I'm going to have to make some changes too. But I'm able to drive it again while I gather parts for the LSA blower install.
#178
CTS-V is the same spacing as a Corvette as far as accessories. I'm not sure if its the same pump or not. I bought this one with the accessories.
The CTS-V pump has the bolt holes for the the blower belt pulleys bracket. I would assume the vette pump doesnt have those holes.
The CTS-V pump has the bolt holes for the the blower belt pulleys bracket. I would assume the vette pump doesnt have those holes.
#179
CTS-V is the same spacing as a Corvette as far as accessories. I'm not sure if its the same pump or not. I bought this one with the accessories.
The CTS-V pump has the bolt holes for the the blower belt pulleys bracket. I would assume the vette pump doesnt have those holes.
The CTS-V pump has the bolt holes for the the blower belt pulleys bracket. I would assume the vette pump doesnt have those holes.
This is the bracket I'm talking about for the idler pulleys for the blower belt. It bolts to the water pump