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That's a really clean truck 67 goat. Are you aware that Hooker has a set of engine mounting brackets that were developed to work with the Hooker trans crossmember you have and ensure that your LS/T56 install would be purely a bolt-in exercise without requiring any drilling? I don't know how well the holes in the crossmember feet will line up with the holes in your frame if you use it with any other type of mount...you may end up having to drill additional holes in your frame.
I am! And I've followed some of your product development threads...very nice work. I'm fine drilling some holes if needed. I'm sure your kit is well engineered, but I didn't like how your mounts move the engine forward 1.25". I'm running the dirty dingo slider mounts for adjustability. We'll see how it goes.
I am! And I've followed some of your product development threads...very nice work. I'm fine drilling some holes if needed. I'm sure your kit is well engineered, but I didn't like how your mounts move the engine forward 1.25". I'm running the dirty dingo slider mounts for adjustability. We'll see how it goes.
You may have read some erroneous information regarding the Hooker C10 engine brackets somewhere; they do not move the engine 1.25" forward. The brackets allow a user to drop an LS into a C10 of your vintage in front of a 700R4 while leaving the stock crossmember and driveshaft undisturbed.
You may have read some erroneous information regarding the Hooker C10 engine brackets somewhere; they do not move the engine 1.25" forward. The brackets allow a user to drop an LS into a C10 of your vintage in front of a 700R4 while leaving the stock crossmember and driveshaft undisturbed.
Both Jegs and Summit are very misleading then. You might want to correct their listings. From Jegs: "Engine Location: 1-1/4'' Forward, 1/2'' Up". Summit says something similar but about transmission location which is even more confusing.
Both Jegs and Summit are very misleading then. You might want to correct their listings. From Jegs: "Engine Location: 1-1/4'' Forward, 1/2'' Up". Summit says something similar but about transmission location which is even more confusing.
Thanks for the heads-up with those listings. I do send corrections out for such errors in listings through the sales department when I find them, but sometimes nothing becomes of them.
I made a call to the Holley tech who's red C10 appears in the Hooker C10 swap preview thread to confirm the fitment and I can add a few details for you...the truck was originally equipped with a 350/700R4 set-up and a 5.3/4L60 combo was swapped in using the 12621HKR Hooker engine brackets mentioned before I developed the Hooker crossmember, headers and exhaust systems were developed to work in conjunction with the engine brackets.
The stock driveshaft and crossmember were re-used at the time of the 5.3L/4L60 swap, but the crossmember did have to be re-located reward about 2" to accommodate the more rearward mount position of the 4L60. The 4L60 is slightly longer than a 700R4, so it's possible the engine/trans mating plane is nudged forward slightly from the stock SB location, but nowhere near the 1.25" stated on Summit's/Jeg's websites.
I'll be following along to see how successful you are using the DD mounts with the Hooker crossmember.
I should have access to everything I need to get an absolute fore/aft difference measurement tomorrow, if it's greater than what I anticipate I'll post up the findings so you'll have the info at hand should the DD engine brackets pose any issues for you.
I read most or all of that thread. Beautiful truck and clean install.
As as you probably noticed, I'm running a T56. Not many LS/T56 C10s out there. This should be good feedback for your crossmember with the T56 bracket. Looking forward to that part. Pedal swap is next in the list, which I'm dreading.
I've got detailed mounting dimension information info for you that may end up be helpful to you before your done installing your engine 67 goat.
I'll start with the dimensional differences between the SB and LS engines...
Length of SB engine block - 21-3/4"
Length of SB cylinder head- 19-5/8"
Length of LS engine block - 20-1/2"
Length of LS cylinder head- 19-1/2"
Distance from rear face of SB left side head to end of SB block- 2-3/16"
Distance from rear face of LS left side head to end of LS block- 1"
And for a comparative measurement of a couple of transmissions...
Overall length of 700R4 trans- 29-3/8"
Overall length of LS case 4L60 trans- 31-3/8"
Overall length of 4th-gen F-body T56 trans- 31-5/16"
Now to the dimensional mounting specs of the Hooker 12621HKR engine brackets....
The description on Summit's site is correct by stating that they move the transmission forward by 1-1/4"...this is by nature of the LS block being 1-1/4" shorter than a SB engine block. The front machined surface of the LS block and the cylinder heads remain in the same location as they were with the factory installation of the SB engine.
The 4L60 trans being 2" longer than the 700R4 overall explains why the Holley tech was able to reuse his original driveshaft when swapping from a 350/700R4 to a 5.3/4L60.
Two things for you to consider specifically will be the affect your engine placement has on your shifter location and bellhousing/firewall interference you may experience if you are using a 4th-gen F-body T56.
The shifter housing is at the extreme rear of the trans on the 4th-gen F-body units, which can be improved by moving the trans forward, using an offset shifter, or by using a T56 Magnum with its more forward positioned shifter housing.
Bellhousing/firewall interference, if present, can be mitigated by using a Quicktime steel bellhousing. This can greatly reduce the amount of floor patching you may end up needing to do.
Lastly, here's two reference photos that show the proximity of the LS cylinder heads to the firewall when using the Hooker 12621HKR engine brackets...they may come in handy for making a comparative judgement later on. Good luck.
That all makes sense. Dimensional differences of an LS and SB really throw a wrench in all the motor location claims by any LS swap engine mount manufacturer. Y'all should say from what surface it's referenced from. Personally, I think the bellhousing/block interface should be the common reference for all, but that's probably wishful thinking.
After reading all that, I'm glad I have some adjustability. I have a GTO T56, which has the rear most shifter location of any T56 (worst spot for a C10), but I plan on either using an offset (forward) shifter, or the front position as you mentioned regarding the Magnum (all T56s have this by the way, just need to buy a kit and make some modifications to the shifter rail to add a shifter cup).
I'm not afraid to cut up the floor as needed to fit the T56. I'd be surprised if I didn't have to actually. I cut the floor of my GTO for the TKO-600......not a huge deal in my opinion. I have most fabrication and machine tools any home mechanic could ever want. The skills to run them on the other hand?....debatable.
No problem, I'm glad the install geometry of the Hooker engine brackets is clearer now.
I'm not sure there is a perfect reference point to provide users as the signifigance of the location of the LS engine/trans mating plane varies between vehicle applications, depending on the transmission wanting to be used, the accessory drive wanting to be used and whether of not someone is trying to maintain the use of the stock A/C evaporator case in a GM car.
In general, engine brackets that maintain the engine/trans mating plane in the stock location are best suited to someone trying to retain the use of an existing Powerglide, TH350, 700R4, 2004R or TH400 transmission with existing driveshaft, or trying to use a specific accessory drive set-up.
For anyone wanting to use a 4L80, 4L60 or T56 transmission, placing the front of the LS engine in the original location of a removed SB Chevy and bringing the transmission forward to meet the engine will always provide more optimized U-joint operating angles with less, or no cutting of the tunnel required. The forward transmission position also provides better compatibility with low mount A/C compressors.
Fortunately, you are working on the swap application that has the most freedom of movement of any of the 10 vehicles I've developed swap components for to date, so you just may end up with something very workable.
Halfway thru the pedal swap. Automatic pedal bracket is out. The brake/clutch pedal assembly will go in as soon as I replace the bushings and drill the holes for the clutch master cylinder.
Motor is in. Now the hard work begins. Mostly the trans install....will definitely need some floor modifications for it to fit....but not a big deal. I put the bench seat back in and fit the trans to the motor......I definitely need the front shift kit also. I was hoping to avoid that (and save $400) but the shifter comes up right under the front of the bench seat. Plus the front shift kit ends up right where a factory 4 spd shifter would come thru and it just looks right.
CTS-V oil pan is perfect! Like it was made specifically for these trucks. I've read some people using the truck pan and it doesn't hang too low.....no idea how that is even possible. Love this pan.
I bought the factory 99-06 Silverado coolant hoses after looking at my C10 radiator. I figured the inlet and outlet were about the same locations as a newer LQ4 equipped truck. They fit pretty darn good....cross that one off the list. Upper hose.....gates 22436. Lower hose....gates 22437.
I know the upper hose is kinda goofy and takes a weird route. Oh well, function over form....it fits nice and leaves plenty of room for the intake tubing.
Previous owner installed an auxiliary trans cooler with the 383/TH350. Don't need that anymore! Completely functional and solid, but not the cleanest looking install.
Looking good! Scarey how stock stuff still fits after 30 years. I've swapped 3 of the 88-99 trucks and the LQ4/9 mechanical fan fits right into the 88-99 fan shroud.
Bought a new tank for an '87 from RockAuto for $80. It's baffled and painted. Money well spent.
I also bought a new sending unit with the metric threaded O-ring fittings and used adapters to get them to -8an and -6an.
I'm using an aeromotive 340 pump and modified the wiring to work with the factory sending unit plugs. I was amazed to find the correct wire terminals at my local auto parts store.
This picture is upside down and I have no idea why.
I actually stole this pic from the internet because I forgot to take a picture of the assembled sending unit and pump.
What are you going to do about the shifter? I'm installing a 2014 6.2, L99 and I went with auto instead of the 6 speed as I didn't want to have to fab the linkage. I looked on the net for a set up but didn't find one. If there is one out there, LS3 with 6 speed is going in!
12-19-2016, 06:29 PM
