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Finished up the hydroboost lines. I also drilled the manual headlight bracket on the driver side to give a lazy eye setting to get some air to the area where the air intake and hydroboost cooler sit.
Finished up the wiring. That's it for the install on the top side, except for installing the strut bar, hood and header panel obviously.
Next up is exhaust. Nothing too elegant planned there, I've got a Y pipe in hand and I'm waiting on a few other pieces to make the connection from the headers to the existing Lindsey Racing 3 inch single system. This will be the "get it running" setup, it only has a Pypes M-80 muffler which doesn't muffle much. It was fine on the stock turbo engine since the turbo did much of the muffling.
Thanks for the tip Michael! Even if it's only a 5.3? Lindsey Racing also offers a 4 inch 944 system off the shelf, I'm sure there's a market solution for 3.5 inch from someone as well. Not sure on the cam specs, whatever turn key engine supply installed as part of the engine build (they rate at 350hp/350tq).
Thanks, appreciate that. Heading to a friends place this afternoon to have him weld up a few exhaust pieces for me. That'll let me get the exhaust system on then I'll fill with fluids and see if I can get it running. Wiring is not my strong suit so I don't expect it to go smoothly, get ready for a flood of questions! The long freezing winter is looming here, so I don't really feel too rushed, I'd like to get it running in the garage over the winter so I can trouble shoot any leaks or other issues before hitting the road in the spring.
OK, pieced together an exhaust system that will let me attempt to start this thing up in the garage over the winter. Headers into magnaflow Y into flex pipe with wideband sensor fitted into existing 3” Lindsey Racing exhaust out through Pypes M-80 muffler.
OK, after a few failed attempts and some minor changes to wiring connections I figured it out and got it started!
Idles at 2 bar oil pressure (30ish psi) on the stock dash gauge through the stock 944 pressure sender attached with an adapter to the LS block. There seems to be some top end tapping noise? Any ideas from the LS gurus?
My rev counter says idle is around 2000rpm, but the engine definitely sounds like a typical 1000rpm idle. I’m guessing the MEFI computer puts out an 8 cylinder signal unlike a stock LS computer that outputs a 4 cylinder signal for rpm. What’s the simplest method for scaling an 8 cylinder signal down to 4? One of those Dakota Digital boxes?
Some good news though, the only dash light that is a problem is the stock Japanese market exhaust temperature warning light, I need to disable that, the sensor hasn’t been in the exhaust for years but now it’s flashing with the stock 944 computer gone. Voltage gauge and temperature gauge working well, no other warning lights. Fans didn’t trigger but the temperature gauge never got high enough that I would expect them to trigger.
Thanks for all the help so far gentlemen, really appreciate it.
LS computer doesnt put out any "cylinder" tacho signal...it simply outputs a signal that the relevant tacho expects.
You've fitted an 8cyl setup to a 4cyl tacho, so isnt unreasonable that it should read double.
At least 2 relatively easy fixes. Buy a pulse adjuster type device...or delve into the tacho itself and some may have a trim pot to allow you to adjust the reading. Or failing that, get access to the 2 wires that go to the actual coil of the swing needle and install a 1k trim pot and this will allow you to reduce the voltage going to the coil and as such reduce the reading.
Both cheap fixes, the latter a little more work, but almost free.
The former, Jaycar's speedo corrector would do the job.
Thanks for that Stevie! So, it’s not like the old days where there’s an actual 8 cylinder signal that can be converted to 4 cylinder? So this wouldn’t work:
The JayCar box makes sense to me (I think). It allows you to “turn down” the signal coming in, whatever it is, by a percentage. So cut my current signal by 50% and that should do it.
I’d like to avoid monkeying with the gauge itself, I know my strengths and delicate wiring isn’t one of them.
Thanks for that Stevie! So, it’s not like the old days where there’s an actual 8 cylinder signal that can be converted to 4 cylinder? So this wouldn’t work:
The JayCar box makes sense to me (I think). It allows you to “turn down” the signal coming in, whatever it is, by a percentage. So cut my current signal by 50% and that should do it.
I’d like to avoid monkeying with the gauge itself, I know my strengths and delicate wiring isn’t one of them.
It probably will work fine, but the jaycar unit is adjustable and easily half the price. But if the Dakota is easier for you ( and US sourced ) then no reason not to use it.
It's not so much of an 8 cylinder signal...it's just twice as many pulses for any given time period.
Jaycar allows you adjust +/- 100% from input signal, so is quite a versatile unit.
09-21-2017, 08:00 PM
