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I'll get a few more pics tomorrow. If you look closely at the top of the baffles there's small **** sticking up that go into small appropriately sized slots on the top so I can plug weld the top of the baffles. The wonders of laser cutting and Solidworks.
What gauge SS are you working with? I'm making a stainless tank now and was going with 18 gauge since 16 gauge is so hard to bend and cut cleanly with nice fit up. Yours looks much thicker and heavier. Also, are you just using pulse and melting, or are you adding rod? Love to know how you vent yours as I have to figure this out too.
What gauge SS are you working with? I'm making a stainless tank now and was going with 18 gauge since 16 gauge is so hard to bend and cut cleanly with nice fit up. Yours looks much thicker and heavier. Also, are you just using pulse and melting, or are you adding rod? Love to know how you vent yours as I have to figure this out too.
Mine is 11 gauge but that was used by mistake. Should've been 16 ga. It's a little heavy but my car is gonna need some traction as it is. I add filler. If it were 16 ga I'd try no filler but as you probably already know fit-up is critical. I'll vent mine out the top with a roll over vent mounted higher than the fill. I do use pulse.
The reason big power guys dont use the OEM bucket is because you can suck that thing dry with 2 450's and when the tank gets below a certain level the bucket cannot fill back up fast enough because of sloshing.
Here is the custom tank i made for my fox. I ended up adding more baffles than in my CAD design but so far its working great. I'm using the stock filler neck location as well except with a gates 2" fuel safe hose to connect the tank to the filler. FWIW if i had to do it again i would prob try and find an OTS tank to start with cause it was a pretty big project doing it from scratch.
I'll vent mine out the top with a roll over vent mounted higher than the fill. I do use pulse.
Is the vent from your fuel pump connection sufficient to allow the gas to go into the tank, or do you need something add'l for the fuel inlet? I know older tanks always have something on the filler neck down to the tank. Just wondered if that is needed as well as the vent that is available via the fuel pump. Hope this ? makes sense.
I understand the question but honestly not sure. This is new territory for me. Maybe others with experience will chime in. All I plan to use at this point is the roll over vent that comes out of the center of the tank where the fuel injection module is and mount the actual vent up above the fill.
Jeeps have a interesting twist in their fuel tanks, the inlet pipe goes in to the tank and drops down about 2"-3" that way when the fuel gets to the end of the pipe it causes the fuel to resist filling and stops the nozzle. They also have a vent pipe that goes from the tank at the same level as the filler tube to the filler pipe at the upper end on the top, so it fills good,, up until the filler tube and vent tube hit the fuel.
Its a cheap trick to pull the pipe out on a stock jeep and shorten it because they left 5 gallons of space above the high fuel mark to get a 15 gallon tank. so pull the tube and its a 20 gallon.. or 19 fish anyway because you do leave enough drop to keep a little air space above the fuel. Down side is the tanks are plastic and shrink over time until the suction screen mashes shut against the bottom of the tank..
BMW has a tank that straddles the drive line, so the right hand side has the same Venturi gadget as in the pics above to push fuel to the left side. Some racers replace the Venturi with a low pressure high volume pump to make sure the left side never runs dry.. They will pump the tank down to about 2 quarts in the bottom before the car stops..
02-21-2017, 07:02 PM
