Seeking Input: International King Kab build project - toy hauler
#1
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
Seeking Input: International King Kab build project - toy hauler
Hi,
I've been jonesing for a new project, kind of a toy hauler, work / Home Depot truck, but also want to stay within a very modest budget <$5k.
I don't have a powerful tow vehicle / hauler. My wife's Land Cruiser (V8) weighs 6500 lbs with 250 horse and 330 ft lbs and a 4 speed Auto. It is a beast, and very comfortable, but not enough beans to tow a 5000 lb wakeboard boat and trailer for long distances, especially with our mountainous terrain out West. It slows dramatically on the hills and does a lot of shifting.
The '51 Ford is my signature is too nice and too small for my family of 4 to haul the boat.
Recently, I started looking for a high mile Diesel pickup (say >2000 and up Ford or Chevy) 3/4 or 1 ton. I've found some about @ $5k.
But came across this thing:
Now, it has a 6 speed manual, which sucks for ease of use, especially getting a boat out of the water (for friends or wife to use) and a 2000 turbo 7.3 power stroke.
The seller says he's open to keeping the drivetrain and reducing the price. Now, it runs and drives, but doesn't start cold without ether. He says the fuel injection system has some bad seal(s) that bleeds down diesel pressure. Makes sense, but isn't immediately obvious to me how to fix that.
For my 1951 Ford F1 build, I installed a L92 and 6L80, which I love, but I don't think that will have the torque I want for this monster and would likely cost at least $5k for a complete drivetrain, the swap parts, etc. I'm budget sensitive here.
Seller is asking $6k as is with details to finish. I'm thinking of offering $4k as is. Or maybe $2k without the drivetrain.
Any general thoughts?
What would it be worth if done nicely?
What may I do for a drivetrain if I leave the drivetrain with the seller?
Will it ride and drive like ****? He says it has air bags in the rear to resolve poor initial ride quality / bucking in the rear.
How do I protect my budget?
Thank you,
Doug
I've been jonesing for a new project, kind of a toy hauler, work / Home Depot truck, but also want to stay within a very modest budget <$5k.
I don't have a powerful tow vehicle / hauler. My wife's Land Cruiser (V8) weighs 6500 lbs with 250 horse and 330 ft lbs and a 4 speed Auto. It is a beast, and very comfortable, but not enough beans to tow a 5000 lb wakeboard boat and trailer for long distances, especially with our mountainous terrain out West. It slows dramatically on the hills and does a lot of shifting.
The '51 Ford is my signature is too nice and too small for my family of 4 to haul the boat.
Recently, I started looking for a high mile Diesel pickup (say >2000 and up Ford or Chevy) 3/4 or 1 ton. I've found some about @ $5k.
But came across this thing:
Now, it has a 6 speed manual, which sucks for ease of use, especially getting a boat out of the water (for friends or wife to use) and a 2000 turbo 7.3 power stroke.
The seller says he's open to keeping the drivetrain and reducing the price. Now, it runs and drives, but doesn't start cold without ether. He says the fuel injection system has some bad seal(s) that bleeds down diesel pressure. Makes sense, but isn't immediately obvious to me how to fix that.
For my 1951 Ford F1 build, I installed a L92 and 6L80, which I love, but I don't think that will have the torque I want for this monster and would likely cost at least $5k for a complete drivetrain, the swap parts, etc. I'm budget sensitive here.
Seller is asking $6k as is with details to finish. I'm thinking of offering $4k as is. Or maybe $2k without the drivetrain.
Any general thoughts?
What would it be worth if done nicely?
What may I do for a drivetrain if I leave the drivetrain with the seller?
Will it ride and drive like ****? He says it has air bags in the rear to resolve poor initial ride quality / bucking in the rear.
How do I protect my budget?
Thank you,
Doug
#3
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
Thank you. I picture it with a speed-tattered American Flag wrap on it.
I saw on my local Craigslist an 8.1 with 4L80 with 28k miles from an '03 for $3450 with BO. I could probably get it for $3k. Still, for that, it seems like it needs Diesel for economy and just the nature of what it is.
Thanks for your input.
Doug
I saw on my local Craigslist an 8.1 with 4L80 with 28k miles from an '03 for $3450 with BO. I could probably get it for $3k. Still, for that, it seems like it needs Diesel for economy and just the nature of what it is.
Thanks for your input.
Doug
#5
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
I'm naive on Diesels but had assume any semi-recent (>2000 and newer), diesel engine / trans package from a 3/4 ton and up would give decent performance, especially mildly massaged / tuned.
A cheap way to go would be to just swap the 6 speed manual and drop in a 4R100 Autobox, even one gone through by a trans shop.
Which Cummins would you suggest? Does this fit my modest budget?
Doug
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#8
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
What would be realistic in terms of mileage? I have a 40k lb bus RV with a 6V92 Turbo and Supercharged with Allison 5 speed and that gets 6. Economy isn't the priority, but had thought I might be around 13 to 15 on the freeway at least if I kept speeds reasonable (below 70 mph).
Thanks again,
Doug
#9
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (8)
Thank you for the input. I've been thinking this way, too.
What would be realistic in terms of mileage? I have a 40k lb bus RV with a 6V92 Turbo and Supercharged with Allison 5 speed and that gets 6. Economy isn't the priority, but had thought I might be around 13 to 15 on the freeway at least if I kept speeds reasonable (below 70 mph).
Thanks again,
Doug
What would be realistic in terms of mileage? I have a 40k lb bus RV with a 6V92 Turbo and Supercharged with Allison 5 speed and that gets 6. Economy isn't the priority, but had thought I might be around 13 to 15 on the freeway at least if I kept speeds reasonable (below 70 mph).
Thanks again,
Doug
#10
Launching!
iTrader: (4)
2000 is the last year Ford used forged rods in the 7.3. I'd fix whatever issue it has and MAYBE swap a 4R with the biggest trans cooler you can find. The 7.3 can get some pretty decent power with few mods that don't break the bank. I wouldn't drive a medium-duty sized truck that was gas powered if I had to pay for my own fuel.
#13
TECH Senior Member
The 7.3 is a great engine. If that's what is in there look nowhere else. It is what came in it originally, as it is an IH engine. If it's tired get a reman long block and be done. Any engine swapping here is wasting money, to be quite blunt.