ewingr

This is about to drive me crazy. I have an LS3 in a 61 Chevy, 4L65e. Started with the CRC-1000. Caused the pedal to go dead. Would have to pull the battery to get going. Originally used the blk speedo wire from the LS wiring harness to feed it.

So they said I should use the CRC-2000. Sent me the box, and changed it out. Said to use the control box for the DD Gauge setto feed 4K signal to the CRC-2000. Hook to Spd Snd. Then hook a 1K resistor between the SPD SND and the SPD + (5v output). Have the same problems.

Now they say the instructions were wrong that the resistor needs to go between the SPD SND and 12V red wire.

Real pita, as my gauge box is buried behind the dash.

Anyway, I'm hoping to hear from someone here who has had success with a CRC-2000, and if they have any feedback on the install to make it work.

I'll probably be pulling my dash tomorrow to redo the resistor if I don't hear from anyone first.

Michael Yount

iTrader: (1)

I've got the CRC 2000 working perfectly on mine -- new crate LS3. But they STRONGLY recommended using magnets on the driveshaft with one of their pickups for the speed signal rather than trying to use anything related to the VSS or ECU. So that's what I did. Worked perfectly the first time I tried it.

ewingr

Interesting. I asked then today of they had a different way, to avoid using any vss wires, such as magnets on driveshaft. They said no. Must have been a rep not completely in the know.

Any chance you can provide more details?

I will try to find info on their site.

ewingr

Was it using the SGI-5E?

[EDIT]
It doesn't say anything about using magnets. It converts signals

[EDIT2]
Only thing I can find on their site is CRS-3000-4165, which actually is another type of cruise control that works with magnets. Doesn't seem to need/interface with the CRC-2000.

Michael Yount

iTrader: (1)

Sure Roger -- I used two magnets on the driveshaft - 180 degrees apart. Call them again and talk to someone in sales. Tell them you want to buy their magnet/pickup kit for speed sensing on the driveshaft. Or you may find that by searching on their website. The pickup is a simple Hall effect pickup - 2 wires, blue and gray. I grounded the gray wire and connected the blue wire to the "speed sensor" wire from the control unit. With my tire size/rear gear the 2 magnet set up puts out a 5600 ppm signal. By the way -- Rostra down in Laurinburg, NC designs/builds the unit for Dakota Digital.

I found Dakota Digital's tech folks to be of the pizza/pancake variety. They feed them that because that's the only food they can slide under the door. You don't want those folks to actually come in contact with other humans....

And mine is definitely the CRC-2000 and THEY recommended the magnet/pickup approach for speed signal. They didn't think the control unit would like anything that tried to make use of a non-stock/fully integrated and completely stock ECU/VSS. Their quote was something like "For anything that is a swap, you may have problems getting a speed signal from the VSS."

Michael Yount

iTrader: (1)

I have no idea at all what "SGI-5E" is.

ewingr

I just finished reading on two threads you have, one was on the Volvo, and the other on the SS topic.

So, Rostra probably be best to talk to about this if I need further info, it sounds like.

Can't find anything on DD site, no matter the search term. I did find this on eBay. I suspect that is what you used, no?

Unless I misunderstand you, all I need to do is get a SEN-4165, and connect the wire from it to the wire on the CRC-2000 that wants VSS (purple wire), and I should be good to go.

Does that sound right? (The threads I read were more technical, and didn't get specific on the setup).

I really appreciate your help.

Michael Yount

iTrader: (1)

I had them send my CRC unit and the magnets/pickup kit all at the same time. Not sure of the part number - but if you CALL them and ask about those specific things, they can steer you to the right parts. Looks like the product in the ebay picture -- pretty sure it's a Rostra part as well. You may be able to find it at Rostra's website. There are TWO wires from the pickup (see the ebay pic you linked....). Ground one, hook the other to the purple wire.

Michael Yount

iTrader: (1)

Checked my 'stack of paper' -- confirmed, SEN-4165 was the Dakota Digital part.

jimmyg

Why can't you use the vss off of trans?

ewingr

Read my first post and it will tell you what happens. It's been a real pain in the butt.

ewingr

Thank you so much

One other question: I used a pickup like that a long time ago. The cruise was a bit erratic...would speed up, slow down...Maybe drive faster than it was set at.

I'm guessing today's cruise controls are better, even on the same magnet sensor. Yes?

Last question (for now:-) )...That comes with 4 magnets but I presume only 2 are used. Correct?

Michael Yount

iTrader: (1)

I've been using pickups with magnets on the driveshaft (or halfshaft on fwd/awd - only 1 magnet) on various cars for almost 40 years. Fully electronic aftermarket cruise devices (no vacuum) came out back in the late 70's/early 80's when most OEM's were still using vacuum driven devices. Not only did I never have a problem, they worked BETTER than the vacuum/OEM cruise units did. The first one I did was adding cruise to my then new 1980 VW Jetta -- a Sears cruise unit. It worked so well that a couple of years later, I converted a '77 Porsche 911 FROM factory cruise to the Sears electronic cruise using the factory switch (couldn't tell anything was different inside the cockpit) because it worked better. Several other applications over the years. Never had a problem with any of them ---

The CRC-2000 is looking for a cruise signal that's in the 4000 pulses per mile range. My car has 25.3" tall tires and 3.55 gears. 2 magnets results in about 5600 ppm IIRC. 1 would only be 2800 ppm. Not sure what tires/gear you're running in the bubble -- but it your tire height/gearing is similar - 2 is going to be your best bet also - 180 degrees apart, obviously. I'd do the math with your tires/gear to be sure.

Tips for making it foolproof -- 1) make a template out of cardboard or heavy paper and mark exactly 180 degrees apart. Split the template and slip it around the driveshaft - use that to place/secure your magnets. Most folks try to eyeball it (rolls eyes) -- and that often causes problems because the signal gets wonky. 2) place the magnets/pickup as close to the transmission as you can. Remember, assuming you don't have IRS in the back, the driveshaft moves up/down/fore/aft/side-to-side as the car is moving. All of that alters the distance and the orientation between the pickup and the magnets . You minimize that by situating things as close the tranny as possible. The CRC2000 on my 35 year old car works every bit as seamlessly as the cruise on my '15 and '16 daily drivers.

Michael Yount

iTrader: (1)

Do the math -- for most vehicles, the VSS is generating a signal that's anywhere from 10x to 20x more pulses per mile than the CRC2000 wants to receive. For example - the OEM T56 VSS I use would read a 17-tooth reluctor in the tranny and with stock Z28 or Corvette gearing/tire size - generates 41,000-43,000 ppm. Those cars with automatics have a 40-tooth reluctor - I'll leave that ppm math to you. But both are MUCH higher than the CRC2000 was designed for. Most ECU's (or a speedo module) will convert that to something approaching 4000 ppm for a speedometer. I was never able to get a definitive answer out of Dakota as to why that converted signal wouldn't work. Suspect it's a 5V referenced signal and the CRC is looking for a 12V referenced signal. Yes -- adding the proper 12V connection through a 1000 ohm (I think) resistor should solve the problem (as it did for my oldskool tach). However, after repeatedly calling and asking and not getting a satisfying answer, I just did what they told me to do. And it worked. Hell, I've been married for almost 43 years --- you'd think I'd have learned that lesson.

Michael Yount

iTrader: (1)

Just read (ok - about every 3rd page looking at pictures) your build thread Roger. Impressive work and persistence. I had a similar check engine light issue on first start up -- air leaking in between the maf and the throttle body. Secured all the leak points and no more check engine light. My start up was uneventful - fired the first time I turned over the key and the CEL issue was resolved shortly thereafter. You'll get there. I bought all my components through PSI -- O2's, pedal, ECM, harness, maf because I wanted to be sure it was all compatible. No pesky auto tranny to deal with. We set mine up as if it was a "stock" 08 Corvette minus the rear O2's. Has worked flawlessly from the first start.

TomM

iTrader: (56)

I used the 2000...works perfect. Just connect the wire to the same terminal that you connect your speedo to on the DD box. Forget the speed out bullshit. I had the same questions and they could not give a definitive answer. So i just hooked it up and went for a drive, works perfect...

You would think DD would at least have some folks there that knew their ****, but I guess not...

T,

ewingr

What you did is exactly the first thing I did, which did, for me, cause the pedal to go dead. I don't know what's different between your setup and mine. Maybe earlier PCM or something? At any rate, it does not work for me.

Right now, I have my dash front off and ready to hook the resistor to a 12v source instead of 5 v. I guess as that I'm now close to that point, I'll give it a try.

But, at this time I am expecting it to fail, and I'll be ordering the magnet setup.

Michael, I appreciate so much your taking the time to explain and provide the tips. I would not have thought of the template for othe magnets.

One good thing on my setup: the '61 has a 2 piece driveshaft. The one from the tranny to the center point will not have any up/down motion at all. That will be in the back half.

On my build thread...yeah, it's long. Hope you got some enjoyment out of perusing it. I've had a lot of fun tracking the build. I got a lot of help from folks there.

I'll post back my success here.

Michael Yount

iTrader: (1)

61 Impala w/LS3 has 2 piece; 82 Volvo w/LS3 = REMOVE 2 piece and install 1 piece driveshaft. As evidenced by all of our different experiences with the HUGE variety of different ways to put these parts together - there is no one size fits all ESPECIALLY with the electronics.

Elec Engineer to Mech Engineer - look at cool stuff this black box does!

ME to EE - how does it do it?

EE to ME - look at cool stuff this black box does!

ewingr

LOL...

Ok. It failed again with the resistor on 12v instead of 5v. So, I will be ordering the magnet pickup.

I am a little concerned though. The cruise unit of course is still interfacing with the pedal. And it's interesting that TomM installed it and it works fine w/o the magnet setup. (At least that's what I presume from his post above).

So, I'm concerned that something from the box itself is causing my issue. But then, that issue has persisted through a 1000 and a 2000.

So, I'm certainly hoping that your success will translate to success for me,

I presume that the 'stall' discussed in your other threads is what I am experiencing.

Michael Yount

iTrader: (1)

My very early and occasional (maybe 3 times) stalls were totally unrelated to cruise....it wasn't installed until after I worked out my start up "stuff" - CEL, alt light, accurate tach.