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I'm totally confused -- how many ti's do you have? Is the silver one the one that had the broken engine/awaiting new engine from TX in a bit? Or a different one? If different, what power plant in it?
I'm totally confused -- how many ti's do you have? Is the silver one the one that had the broken engine/awaiting new engine from TX in a bit? Or a different one? If different, what power plant in it?
My Silver Ti is #CircaNov1996 (military car sales purchase in S Spain) - THAT CAR has led an amazing life. A car with a story to the Nth degree.
my BLK Ti shared in this thread was/is derived from the culmination of my experiences with my Silver Ti. Since the Blk Ti, is Dubbed - MUL8NO1, it could/should be shared that the Silver car is dubbed, MSENTME - which harkens back to latter ‘90’s BMW M division And James Bond reference (if anyone gets that, they win a cookie)!!!
ive shared my daughters Wht Ti, My V8 Blk Ti, and now my Silver Ti... which is not all of the Ti’s under my ownership. It’s been interesting watching bmw hatch owners across US come in to their own and display their efforts on 318ti.org and other... I just watch and smile!!!
MSENTME is fully built and ready to rock with 20 pistons of brakes, multiple master cylinders, tubular cont arms, multi-adjustable shocks, 5.5 engines now, sways, diff, cage, steering, trans, blah
This car has sat for 18mo due to horrible vibration spawning at track out at COTA IN Nov ‘16. Once V8 cracked on MUL8NO1 car, I decided to fix MSENTME car. Vibration finding was broken drive strap on stock-type M pressure plate. A new Clutch Masters Clutch assy paired with my JBR flywheel, new fluids throughout vehicle, all fresh fuel lines and dual pumps and new wiring ;and more, this silver car is absolutely no slouch - I added new carpet back in it, two seats/belts/harness/center console etc and the new purpose of this car will become my autox trainer used to test this and that for my V8’s use. It easy took FTD with horrible 1/2” of toe out (yeah), blown dead rear shock (now fixed), cold road race tires at autox, etc... I’ll have all issues fixed by this weekends autox to increase my FTD time distance
Street drive needs cup holders - must add provision S52 making S54-type rwhp Had to replace plugs that clearly were caked with additive-rich fuel from sitting too much Great new pass fun-seat provisions All proper hardware, locations, angles etc... 4” square plate under... So many memories
I appreciate the lengthy post - but am even more confused now.... What engine in silver car?
i cryptically stated the base-engine for MSENTME...
recap = S52!!!
With all the ‘stuff’ you’d need to allow the S52 to do its best.
way back in 2005, then a street car, MSENTME ran a 12.5@109 at local straight line joint - with road race springs shocks heavy nto1s 3.73’s forcing 1-2 shift at tree and... well, it’s more healthy in every way from back in those days...
Bringing the ‘trainer Ti’ back to life Road race tires = horrible autox tires - must fix (just takes money) This clutch combo is proving to be great My silver car with 250-275rwhp at 2600lbs and all the brakes, suspension, diff, etc recently reminded me that this car is “plenty”...
The MUL8NO1 car with all similar running gear but 550-600rwhp will largely go wasted - but it’s “Built, Not Bought”... and that’s invaluable to us. Clean, Inspect, clean, install... use.
Now I have go look up what an S52 is....you’re a little too familiar with your own/BMW stuff. LOL. Is that a twin cam Bimmer V8? Displacement?
1998 BMW S52, 3.2l I-6, single t/b, iron block, aluminum head... this power plant is looong, tall, and canted. That said, one S52 head weighs what both LS heads weigh combined!
the all-aluminum LS V-8 takes up less real estate in all dimensions, makes twice the power for 1/2 cost, and weight diff is ~28-35lbs
So that’s the 240 horse six that came in US M3’s/E36’s? We owned one E30 and 3 E36’s including a Ti (technically is that an E36?). But as their cars got bigger, heavier, more tech/gadget filled, we walked away from BMW. They’ve lost their way. You’ve got the last of the good stuff in my opinion.
I also did some scale work when I swapped the alum head 5.0L out of mine. Simlarly equipped - induction/efi/ignition systems in place, water pumps, balancers, same material exhaust manifolds (tube steel shorties), but no flywheel - the LS3 weighed 382, the cast iron block 5.0L weighed 411.
Is the LS lighter than the S52 or heavier?
Last edited by Michael Yount; 04-02-2018 at 09:30 AM.
So that’s the 240 horse six that came in US M3’s/E36’s? We owned one E30 and 3 E36’s including a Ti (technically is that an E36?). But as their cars got bigger, heavier, more tech/gadget filled, we walked away from BMW. They’ve lost their way. You’ve got the last of the good stuff in my opinion.
my S52 has head port work, spring/retainers, cams, obd1, larger this and that etc. it’s entertaining to see the overall combo upset people with ‘more’ of a car but are less quick.
BMW E36/5 Compact 1995-1999 (318ti in US)
(identical wheel base in length and width as other E36’s)
i concur with your opinion as stated - it is a common theme around World... fo sho - !!!
ive had E21’s, E30’s, E36’s, E46’s, E39’s, E82, E90, F80
blah... I think I passed 25 bmw Mark with thus blk V8 car.
No turbos - does speed limit on street just fine Again, no need for turbos here - track car used to ‘go fast’ - the M Sport 128i is way ‘more’ of a pkg than most give it credit for Attention to detail - abounds Lettin’ It all hang loose... like an OG
Last edited by MUL8NO1; 04-12-2018 at 02:23 PM.
Reason: Uhh typo
Oh - I meant to bite before -- but I'll bite now. Give me the code for how "MSENTME" relates to the car and Bond. I mean - I can see an "M" connection - but am lost after that. And I thought my personalized tag was obscure....
Oh - I meant to bite before -- but I'll bite now. Give me the code for how "MSENTME" relates to the car and Bond. I mean - I can see an "M" connection - but am lost after that. And I thought my personalized tag was obscure....
MUL8NO1 = emulate no one = blk V8 Ti
MSENTME = M Sent Me, two meanings:
1. M division car in fact sent me.
2a. M related to James Bond... M is the ‘call sign’ for the Female Head of Operations for Double-OO SECRET OPS matters, Eg: 007
2b. M sends James Bond out to ‘get the bad guys through any means necessary for the greater good’.
Sooooo, I created M-Sent-Me.
Then.... a few years later (circa late 90’s), a new James Bond came out - a scene occurs where Bond enters a room with a damsel in distress. She asks, “who send you”?
Bonds responded in fact with “M sent me”....
“Well No Sh:t...” “I’ll be damned”... “Yippie Skiipy” - and other, was my elated responses when I heard that!!!
MSENTME... ha - probably was only great for exactly one person - me!!!
but it was neat at the time!!! That’s been the registered tag on car since it came back to US from Spain/Germany in 1998
most people guessed “missing time”
uh..... 😳🤮
Last edited by MUL8NO1; 04-02-2018 at 02:22 PM.
Reason: Typo
Like others (I'd bet), I didn't read yours 'literally' -- I assumed there were missing letters and tried to put it together to mean a variety of things other than M Sent Me.
As for MUL8NO1 -- I thought that was a tongue in cheek reference to the 80's/90's -- read it as Mullet Number One. (seriously)
Which means I'm not the only one that comes up with tags that are difficult to ferret out. Got so many comments about mine being a sleeper that I had RPVNWNKL for a while - anyone over 50 got that one immediately; the youngsters who probably never have to read the classics any more, didn't have a clue. But decided a nod to my alma mater was over due, and only had 4 characters to work with on one of the university tags.
... just a few short block pics and completed head pics. Currently, TSP and I are on standby while Pat G reviews my build detail and provides a few cam options/considerations!!! If this motor needs something other than my FiTech intake / tb / injector sizes / anything, then I’ll have to move in the necessary direction.
This is new motor build is not going to be parts nor machine quality limited... I can’t let a little old money get in the way of this new money bringing the awesome!!!
821 Oe heads now fully CNC PRC sorted Nano-peeded Springs... and more K1 Tech Forged 427 crank already has keyway for my ATI damper, so no need to drill and pin etc, fancy hardening, oiling, balancing, blah TSP ARP everything... because ARP TSP Forged H-beam Rods 6.125” for the 4” stroke and 4.125” bore... and inside the Darton Sleeves Future statement, “yeah it’s just a 5.3l” After cam determination, TSP will create it, then Johnson lifters, MLS gasket, heads, pushrods, yada yada on up.
the LS2/3 set up is the dead motor - due to that blue o-ring apparently ...
the new motor shall be in route route to my house beginning this coming Monday.
the new 7.0l is as built and complete as it can get - work performed by best machines in industry coupled with technicians using great tools and testing equipment.
this next motor ought to get the job done - update along the way...
before i I start it, I’ll have to run my own solution for Oil Temp monitoring and Oil pressure monitoring... I’ve got no plan to execute yet on that front - I’ll have to be fielding questions and best practices etc
Priming oil system key - they (builders or us) can coach you. I used my Motive brake bleeder and pushed 6 qts into the journal passage through plug behind the low mount alternator. That o-ring - so easy to mis-size or pinch. $1 part kills LOTS of engines for first timers. I had oil press and temp monitors - ‘course, temp takes a while to build. Track = you’ll need big cooler and maybe Accusump?
No clarity of thought or a clear path fwd = disjointing responses!
Originally Posted by douglee25
MUL8N01 - Your responses are so disjointed that I have a really hard time understanding WTF you're trying to convey??
More details please :-)
Ill preface my response by Thanking anyone will to take their most valuable personal asset (their time) and use it to engage with me and this car build!!!
I presume my Oil Monitoring Plan as described above, or not, isn’t a good one... but I need a good one... So ———>
Recap: I killed my first motor in just a few minutes of on-time due to torn oil pump o-ring disallowing oil/pressure/enuf to keep motor lubticared - APPARENTLY I could have done something to remedy the oil pressure issue if I had been monitoring any Oil details... pressure or temp (more pressure than temp)!
So, in an effort to not Kill my brand new custom fully built to hilt motor, I BETTER MONITOR MY OIL!!!
I lulled myself to sleep with my thoughts that I took enough time to do it all right with my first motor... but I didn’t do it all right - and paid the price.
Im now washing my LS2 valley cover and removing the stock Oil Pressure Sensor (I didn’t know what that was even for because the FiTech doesn’t hook up to that)... and so I didn’t hook up to that!
I’ve watched a few videos of guys using an NPT 1/8th adapter to plumb a new mechanical oil pressure switch to a oil gauge inside the vehicle - I better do that (unless others have a best-practice that I know nothing about)!
As for oil temp, I did buy an oil temp sensor last year and installed it in my Lingenfelter Oil Cooler adapter - but didn’t run wires nor use it in any way (dumb dumb x 100).
My new 7.0l will be to my house by Thurs and I’m attempting to order/ready my To-do list. The car fired right up months ago with parts that simply came off once short block broke - so those parts are fine to reuse... my added effort must be Oil Temp and Oil Pressure Monitoring... both solutions that 1 Million guys surely know how to do - my learning curve was steep and painful - i’ve Got to get it right beginning next week!
04-02-2018, 07:43 AM
A ‘compact’ problem... 
