Hello, first post with some questions
06-02-2017, 12:50 AM
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Hello, first post with some questions Hello all! Finally decided to register here and get some advice I hope. What brought be here is "the world's easiest LS swap" thread. However, as good as a thread it is, there doesn't seem to be a lot of actual answers there.
The donor vehicle for me will be a 96 Dakota. Ive got the engine mounts, and transmounts figured out, and most of the adapters figured out to use stock gauges. As well as I found a good company that specializes in live tuning the swap once it's done, someone that will make or modify the harness Ill need, as well s flashing the ecm to flash the ecm to delete vats.
So, I'm left with two small issues. First one is fuel. In the thread I mentioned earlier, the guy taps into the stock Mopar jtec engine to run the fuel pump. And it worked great. However, it doesn't mention which wires to run from what to what. Or, would it be better to sink the walboro 255 in my tank and use it? And how would that wiring run?
My next delima is transfer case/speedometer in which I have many many options. The best one I see is using a novak adapter to mate my 231D to whichever transmission I get. I'm thinking using a 2wd transmission and the adapter for my tcase. That should eliminate the need to convert the vss signal from the gm ecm to the jtec ecm. However, how would the transmission know when to shift? Are the 60e/80e speed sensor controlled? Using my transfer case would also make the linkage be about the same for 4wd.
Next option would be to find a driver's side drop set up and convert the vss signal for the speedometer and make the linkages work for the t case and transmission.
Next option would be similar to the one above, but get a gps speedometer from speed hut or similar. But, that still leaves me with how does the transmission know when to shift? Would I just run the vss wires to the tcm and the computer knows when to shift based on info received?
Option 1 would make drive shafts a breeze. Option 2 and 3 would require
Frankenstein u joint and ends to make it work.
Though wouldn't be too big off a problem depending on cost of each options. Im not concerned about upgrading my tcase since this swap will just be a dd for fun, better mpq and fun while I'm out and about.
However,Unfortunately, I won't be able to do this swap myself due to down time needed and not enough knowledge to do it myself in a timely manner. But, I do have a very good mechanic that would do it for me for a very fair price.
The budget will be $6k all in for everything. $7k if absolutely needed. My plan is to find a complete donor vs junk yard items. Cost should be about the same for the end result, and I'll have a vehicle to part out/scrap when it's depleted of all it's goods.
Now, for the tuff decision. In a perfect word, I'd be doing an lq9 with a 4l80e to have the best combo I could. But, those usually have a premium behind them. So, I may end up with an lm7 or L33.
Maybe this next bit of info can help you guys inform me of which one is good enough for me.
My goal is to have 350rwhp, either as soon as the engine gets tuned right after the swap, or after the swap is done. My truck is used as a dd, usually driving like a 60 year old in a Buick, but I like to smash the skinny pedal now and again. (Probably even more so after this swap gets done. Especially since I have a nice 9.25 rear end already with trak lock) do next to no towing, but, being my truck has the ability to work as it is (minus mopars weak link), I want to be able to haul 4000# cars on a tandem axle trailer and now have to worry about the transmission like I do know. I might haul a car once every two years, but, I just don't want to worry about it when I do.
Whatever combo I go with, a new right sized transmission cooler will be installed. So, will a 4l60e live a good life? Or, just say forget about it, and go big, 4l80e and not worry about it?
There's a lot of reading and questions here, and I appreciate it for anyone who's read this far. What I really need for answers, is links so I can book mark the things I'll need.
Thanks everyone!
The donor vehicle for me will be a 96 Dakota. Ive got the engine mounts, and transmounts figured out, and most of the adapters figured out to use stock gauges. As well as I found a good company that specializes in live tuning the swap once it's done, someone that will make or modify the harness Ill need, as well s flashing the ecm to flash the ecm to delete vats.
So, I'm left with two small issues. First one is fuel. In the thread I mentioned earlier, the guy taps into the stock Mopar jtec engine to run the fuel pump. And it worked great. However, it doesn't mention which wires to run from what to what. Or, would it be better to sink the walboro 255 in my tank and use it? And how would that wiring run?
My next delima is transfer case/speedometer in which I have many many options. The best one I see is using a novak adapter to mate my 231D to whichever transmission I get. I'm thinking using a 2wd transmission and the adapter for my tcase. That should eliminate the need to convert the vss signal from the gm ecm to the jtec ecm. However, how would the transmission know when to shift? Are the 60e/80e speed sensor controlled? Using my transfer case would also make the linkage be about the same for 4wd.
Next option would be to find a driver's side drop set up and convert the vss signal for the speedometer and make the linkages work for the t case and transmission.
Next option would be similar to the one above, but get a gps speedometer from speed hut or similar. But, that still leaves me with how does the transmission know when to shift? Would I just run the vss wires to the tcm and the computer knows when to shift based on info received?
Option 1 would make drive shafts a breeze. Option 2 and 3 would require
Frankenstein u joint and ends to make it work.
Though wouldn't be too big off a problem depending on cost of each options. Im not concerned about upgrading my tcase since this swap will just be a dd for fun, better mpq and fun while I'm out and about.
However,Unfortunately, I won't be able to do this swap myself due to down time needed and not enough knowledge to do it myself in a timely manner. But, I do have a very good mechanic that would do it for me for a very fair price.
The budget will be $6k all in for everything. $7k if absolutely needed. My plan is to find a complete donor vs junk yard items. Cost should be about the same for the end result, and I'll have a vehicle to part out/scrap when it's depleted of all it's goods.
Now, for the tuff decision. In a perfect word, I'd be doing an lq9 with a 4l80e to have the best combo I could. But, those usually have a premium behind them. So, I may end up with an lm7 or L33.
Maybe this next bit of info can help you guys inform me of which one is good enough for me.
My goal is to have 350rwhp, either as soon as the engine gets tuned right after the swap, or after the swap is done. My truck is used as a dd, usually driving like a 60 year old in a Buick, but I like to smash the skinny pedal now and again. (Probably even more so after this swap gets done. Especially since I have a nice 9.25 rear end already with trak lock) do next to no towing, but, being my truck has the ability to work as it is (minus mopars weak link), I want to be able to haul 4000# cars on a tandem axle trailer and now have to worry about the transmission like I do know. I might haul a car once every two years, but, I just don't want to worry about it when I do.
Whatever combo I go with, a new right sized transmission cooler will be installed. So, will a 4l60e live a good life? Or, just say forget about it, and go big, 4l80e and not worry about it?
There's a lot of reading and questions here, and I appreciate it for anyone who's read this far. What I really need for answers, is links so I can book mark the things I'll need.
Thanks everyone!
06-02-2017, 06:49 AM
#2
Restricted User
I would go with the Walbro 255 pump personally.
Fuel pump wiring is simple. Power wire from the battery passes through a relay and to the pump. The PCM will provide a 12v signal to turn on the fuel pump relay.
60e and 80e are controlled by VSS for the most part.
If you have front ABS, you can plug the VSS wire into one of them and recalibrate settings in the PCM to work as a speedometer.
If you want 350whp and to still be able to tow, get a 6.0.
Fuel pump wiring is simple. Power wire from the battery passes through a relay and to the pump. The PCM will provide a 12v signal to turn on the fuel pump relay.
60e and 80e are controlled by VSS for the most part.
If you have front ABS, you can plug the VSS wire into one of them and recalibrate settings in the PCM to work as a speedometer.
If you want 350whp and to still be able to tow, get a 6.0.
06-02-2017, 06:56 AM
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I would go with the Walbro 255 pump personally.
Fuel pump wiring is simple. Power wire from the battery passes through a relay and to the pump. The PCM will provide a 12v signal to turn on the fuel pump relay.
60e and 80e are controlled by VSS for the most part.
If you have front ABS, you can plug the VSS wire into one of them and recalibrate settings in the PCM to work as a speedometer.
If you want 350whp and to still be able to tow, get a 6.0.
Fuel pump wiring is simple. Power wire from the battery passes through a relay and to the pump. The PCM will provide a 12v signal to turn on the fuel pump relay.
60e and 80e are controlled by VSS for the most part.
If you have front ABS, you can plug the VSS wire into one of them and recalibrate settings in the PCM to work as a speedometer.
If you want 350whp and to still be able to tow, get a 6.0.
I don't have front abs. Only rear. Which is basically non operational.
What do you think of me keeping my current transfer case and running two vss signals? One off my tcase to the jtec computer for stock speedometer and the other off the transmission to the gm computer for shifting?
06-02-2017, 07:02 AM
#4
Restricted User
350whp with a 4l80e and a 5.3 is very doable. Cam size starts to come into play though and you'll be losing part throttle torque. The 6.0 will make it very easy to tow with 350whp. You can still use a small mild cam and have no issues.
If you have rear ABS, and the hardware is still there, it might still be possible to use the sensors (if you have them).
If you use a 2wd transmission and a divorced transfer case, the VSS sensor is in the tailshaft housing and you shouldn't have any issues. Why are you so dead-set on running your current transfer case?
If you have rear ABS, and the hardware is still there, it might still be possible to use the sensors (if you have them).
If you use a 2wd transmission and a divorced transfer case, the VSS sensor is in the tailshaft housing and you shouldn't have any issues. Why are you so dead-set on running your current transfer case?
06-02-2017, 07:09 AM
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350whp with a 4l80e and a 5.3 is very doable. Cam size starts to come into play though and you'll be losing part throttle torque. The 6.0 will make it very easy to tow with 350whp. You can still use a small mild cam and have no issues.
If you have rear ABS, and the hardware is still there, it might still be possible to use the sensors (if you have them).
If you use a 2wd transmission and a divorced transfer case, the VSS sensor is in the tailshaft housing and you shouldn't have any issues. Why are you so dead-set on running your current transfer case?
If you have rear ABS, and the hardware is still there, it might still be possible to use the sensors (if you have them).
If you use a 2wd transmission and a divorced transfer case, the VSS sensor is in the tailshaft housing and you shouldn't have any issues. Why are you so dead-set on running your current transfer case?
Oh, and with the novak adapter, I don't think the transfer case is divorced. It attaches just like it does with a 4wd transmission.
350whp or very close to it shouldn't squat out of an lq9. That should be a good tune, (not handheld, the real deal) good exhaust, and electric fans. Even if I only get 300 actual wheel house out of that, that's still world's better then my current 318 Magnum. Great engine, reliable, but, just not what I want. Even with a 6.0 with those mods, I'll get better or the same mpg.
Last edited by Toby Warford; 06-02-2017 at 07:19 AM.
06-02-2017, 07:34 AM
#6
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If your speedo is electric, it might be possible to send the speedo signal from the GM PCM to the speedometer. You'll have to change the PPM and its possible you'll have to add a 12v circuit and/or a resistor, but its been done before. This is of course, if you can get a working VSS signal into the PCM to begin with.
06-03-2017, 01:36 AM
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If your speedo is electric, it might be possible to send the speedo signal from the GM PCM to the speedometer. You'll have to change the PPM and its possible you'll have to add a 12v circuit and/or a resistor, but its been done before. This is of course, if you can get a working VSS signal into the PCM to begin with.