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Yeah, when my buddy did his with a 4l80e swap it was much cheaper, but it was auto, I have owned plenty of autos and I do love them. But you get a feel for a car way more when its manual and you get everything down, rev matching is my favorite thing about manuals. I don't know if you discussed this, but, what tire do you plan to run?
I was upset at myself not spending the money and get a t56 just for the fun of rowing gears but the first couple drives in my car with the 4l80e I really wasn't that disappointed. Especially for the money I saved. Its just hard to justify when I've got a grin from ear to ear with the turbo spooling and the real wheels baking off the car. Auto or stick at the point and I'm like Who cares! haha. Either way you are going to have a blast and love driving it!
If you spray some oven cleaner on those heads, it will clean them up very nicely, just make sure you clean them after with soap and water. Don't let it soak on there too long, maybe 5-7 min.
If you spray some oven cleaner on those heads, it will clean them up very nicely, just make sure you clean them after with soap and water. Don't let it soak on there too long, maybe 5-7 min.
Swap is looking great!
Yeah I'm not worried able the looks of it haha. I'll make the next motor pretty. This is just temporary.
Well folks not much happening. Only thing I've been doing is working and collecting parts.
Had to get a spare harness to hack up for lengthening wires.
Also bought my fuel lines and some fittings.
Turned direction on how I'm gonna do my fuel supply. Bought a LMR Sump Kit, taking my tank to get welded this weekend. Gonna run a AEM 380lph pump, -8 feed, -6 return.
Well still not a whole lot of progress. Finishing up wiring and realized I ran out of 12 gauge for the fuel pump/fans so they are on order.
Have the wires fed through the wirewall, going to mount the ecu inside the glovebox or in the dash behind the radio if I can fit it back there.
Had to order a red/blue 0411 ecu because I didn't realize mine was blue/green.
Ordered 3" stainless self aligning/sealing v bands from vibrant. Dropped those off at the exhaust shop to be tig welded on as well as having a 3"to2.5" reducer being made.
Got the BTR pushrods installed, flywheel, clutch and transmission buttoned up. Going to be dropping it in the car to finish lengthening/shortening wires to ecu. Then I get to wrap them all.
I had to order a electronic oil pressure gauge as my mechanical one wouldn't fit inside the pod with using braided lines.
Tank still needs to be emptied and cleaned. I think I'm going to mig weld the sump on myself. I'm gonna make sure it's completely dry and no fuel. Soapy water for a couple of days and drying before welding. Then fill with water to test welds.
I'm still hoping to have the car running by end of march. We shall see. Still have the Aeromotive FPR, -10An lines, fittings, pump and filters to buy before the fuel system can be finished. Also need to figure out how to mount the F body radiator and fans to the mustang radiator support. Anyone have pictures of what they have done??
How long did you make the harness, what or how did you do with all of the pink wires, and can you post pics of the fuse block/ relays?
Thanks.
Basically I took a harness from the junkyard and put it through the firewall after I stripped everything out and removed the loom. I reworked the harness on the motor and now I have to make the connections where the two meet. I would say it's probably a good 2-3' longer than stock. Almost every single wire had to modified to get it where I want.
How long did you make the harness, what or how did you do with all of the pink wires, and can you post pics of the fuse block/ relays?
Thanks.
I guess i didn't answer your second part. I merged the left bank injectors and right bank injectors to two 16 gauge wires that go to the fuse block i am using, then my coils are combined and ran to another slot in the fuse block. Heres a snap shot of what im doing. Fuel pump wiring is 12 gauge, all other power is 16 gauge and the main feed to the fuse is 12 gauge
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That looks awesome. I wish I had half the patience you do to do that good of a job.
I was literally thinking to myself last night is this wiring worth it to hide in the cabin. I spent about 3 hours cutting, splicing, and soldering just the RED connector lol.
Im over wiring now. I still have about 6 hours or so worth of wiring to do.
I was literally thinking to myself last night is this wiring worth it to hide in the cabin. I spent about 3 hours cutting, splicing, and soldering just the RED connector lol.
Im over wiring now. I still have about 6 hours or so worth of wiring to do.
I didn't lengthen mine at all and it still felt like it took forever! Definitely not my strong suit I totally feel your pain!
Well haven't updated in a good while so ill go ahead and do that.
Got the wiring finshed up. Had some issues with the grounding, was reading 5v at the computer and not 12 so it wasn't connecting to HPTuners. Got that figured out, pinned the wideband serial to B55 so i can log it in HPTuners STD. My coolant temperature is reading maxed out, may have some wires switched. Minor Issues so far.
Photo i took while sitting on the core support lol.
Shows how much i extended to get it under the seat. ECU wouldn't fit in the dash without removing heater core.
Got a cobalt Electronic Tach and Speedo for 200 bucks, think i am going to mount it like so.
Got the pod gauges finally all wired and working correctly.
Ran into some issues with the MGW. For people doing a mustang swap using the MGW.... Make sure to order the shifter clocked in the 12 o clock position. Learned this the hard way. MGW is going to clock it for me, have to send it and pay shipping back.
In the picture it is in neutral, shifting to 2nd would push the bezel/console back and the the left.
Picked up a near new catback SLP LM1 exhaust for mustangs. Got a Stainless steel o/r h pipe im picking up today. Gonna have the exhaust shop extend the stainless where need be on the h pipe to make it work with speed engineering headers.
Finally threw on the wheels, this is with the passenger side still jacked up... Makes me want to air it out!
Money shot. 295/35/18s in the rear. 265/35/18 in the front. Dont mind the scrape on the bumper, its going to be removed and having a cobra bumber/spoiler installed in its place.
Car is dirty from being in the shop the last 4 months. Here is the front shot.
Couldn't stand the car being so dirty so i had my flood lights on last night washing the car at 7:30. Forgot how clean the car is! Not too bad for a wrecked "v6" lol.
Still have to run the fuel system. I did remove the fuel lines, still need to drop the tank and drain it. Still have to order the pump and more fittings. Im hoping to do that this next week and get the car started by the end of macrh!
About how long is the harness, and could you post a pic of the harness going through firewall, and can the plug go through?
Looks great!!!!
Thanks.
From the point at the back of the engine through the firewall and under the seat is roughly 4'.
I reused the clutch cable grommet from a auto car. Drilled a hole the appropriate size and placed it right above the frame rail and next to the heater core overflow tube.
The plugs will not fit. If I could do it again I'd find a connector to utilize.
Well i tried to weld my sump on the tank myself last night. Failed miserably, pinholes galore couldn't fix it.
Junking the tank, thanks for the free spare RobertD! I found a deal on a complete 03/04 cobra tank so i am picking that up this weekend. Ill save money in the long run, dont have to buy pump, lines or fittings and having someone weld the sump. Stock pumps should be plenty enough fuel for now.
Well i tried to weld my sump on the tank myself last night. Failed miserably, pinholes galore couldn't fix it.
Junking the tank, thanks for the free spare RobertD! I found a deal on a complete 03/04 cobra tank so i am picking that up this weekend. Ill save money in the long run, dont have to buy pump, lines or fittings and having someone weld the sump. Stock pumps should be plenty enough fuel for now.
Looking sick. Thats a nice car. Can't beat picking up a trashed v6 that someone doesn't want haha. Does the cobra fuel hat still use a 5/16 line like the GT and V6? I though you said you removed your fuel lines? I left my stock line in the car I planned to use it as a return at some point just never got there. The 5/16 line is plenty on a stock mustang (even a cobra) so I'm sure you wont have any trouble. Almost there!
Looking sick. Thats a nice car. Can't beat picking up a trashed v6 that someone doesn't want haha. Does the cobra fuel hat still use a 5/16 line like the GT and V6? I though you said you removed your fuel lines? I left my stock line in the car I planned to use it as a return at some point just never got there. The 5/16 line is plenty on a stock mustang (even a cobra) so I'm sure you wont have any trouble. Almost there!
Don't know that yet. I did remove all the lines, If I ever go boost I need -8 AN return for my regulator to work with dual 340s. So I have to remove the stock lines anyways.
I have owned this car since I was 16 so I have some sentimental attachment. Plus can't beat v6 insurance with a v8 motor lmao.
Don't know that yet. I did remove all the lines, If I ever go boost I need -8 AN return for my regulator to work with dual 340s. So I have to remove the stock lines anyways.
I have owned this car since I was 16 so I have some sentimental attachment. Plus can't beat v6 insurance with a v8 motor lmao.
Budget was in mind when I built my fuel system. After I watched denmah make 992 on the stock 3/8 feed and 5/16 return on stock truck rails with 2 walbro 450s I knew I wouldn't need anymore than that 3/8 for my feed. That was e85 as well. Be fun to try and hit almost 1000 but I don't think I ever will! haha Just food for thought. I feel like people go way overboard when it comes to the misnomer of fuel requirements for a street car.
To answer my own question too after I posted that I looked up stock cobra tanks. It honestly looks like ford did the smartest thing and keep it simple and just modified the basket on the inside of the tank. The top of the hat looks identical to my gt and v6. So I'm assuming the fuel line was the same between all the cars too.
01-23-2018, 10:28 AM
