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i get the not doing it twice thing and the 80mm will probably be pretty fun. but in your shoes id probably do the 7875 to have the quick spool on the street. we know that you will have maxed out the gen3 rods before the turbo and at that point you are either doing gen4 stuff or building the motor.
if you had gen4 stuff now, id say go for the 80 but since youll have to redo both the motor and the transmission, whats the harm in redoing the turbo after all that as well? talking about a complete redo of the entire drivetrain for the most part, swapping the choochoo boi isnt going to be that big of an issue. plus you can easily resell that turbo quickly and recoup most of your money as long as its in good shape.
me personally id want to experiment with the cast 7875 since its my first time doing turbo **** in a while and i wouldnt want to buy a 1000 dollar turbo and then have what happened to robertD with his gt45. a 400 dollar turbo i feel less bad about ruining.
i see both sides though and whichever way you go, its going to be a turbo ls mustang which is good in my book
Originally Posted by SwapStang
this ^^^^
turbo ls is turbo ls... it's a win either way. And I totally agree about doing things twice but I made the conscious choice of getting a cheap gt45 knowing I'd probably have to redo my piping with an upgrade based on turbo sizes (probably won't fit where mine is now). Plus all I learned I'd like to redo a lot of my piping anyways. Not all is lost with doing it twice for cheap to learn. And like I said before 700-800hp is a seriously insane car. Mine at a little more than 400 was
You guys got me so TORN!!!!! Lmao
I will either order a turbo on Labor day if ebay has a sale, or i will look for deals during Black Friday.
i get the not doing it twice thing and the 80mm will probably be pretty fun. but in your shoes id probably do the 7875 to have the quick spool on the street. we know that you will have maxed out the gen3 rods before the turbo and at that point you are either doing gen4 stuff or building the motor.
if you had gen4 stuff now, id say go for the 80 but since youll have to redo both the motor and the transmission, whats the harm in redoing the turbo after all that as well? talking about a complete redo of the entire drivetrain for the most part, swapping the choochoo boi isnt going to be that big of an issue. plus you can easily resell that turbo quickly and recoup most of your money as long as its in good shape.
me personally id want to experiment with the cast 7875 since its my first time doing turbo **** in a while and i wouldnt want to buy a 1000 dollar turbo and then have what happened to robertD with his gt45. a 400 dollar turbo i feel less bad about ruining.
i see both sides though and whichever way you go, its going to be a turbo ls mustang which is good in my book
this^
that is my thinking on my set up. It’s cheap. I’m new to all this turbo stuff. I’ve proven I’ve fucked stuff up but it’s all been a learning experience for me. The good thing about my cheap set up is nothing on my car will really break the bank to replace.
Eventually I’d like to go bigger and better with quality parts, redo my shitty welded hotside hidden behind header wrap. For now it works and I learned a lot and will know what to change next go round
I will either order a turbo on Labor day if ebay has a sale, or i will look for deals during Black Friday.
Hahah Didn't mean to make it so difficult but it's good to hear other perspectives. RobertD and I have pretty similar setups and I couldn't agree with him more about it being a learning experience for cheap and if you F-up... who really cares. I've never done any of this before I knew I would do something stupid haha. And again either way you go you're going to have fun. You'll have a good idea what you want after driving yours around in it's current form for a while.... then just look for the deals.
So, my turbo wont be here for a week or two. Does anyone currently have the billet version? I am trying to find out if it is Diverted or un_diverted. For simplicity RobbyD said to run a un-diverted flange (only 1 Waste-gate). Simply bring the crossover and Y into the flange.
Im going to be ordering my fabrication pipe, mounting flange, v bands, and start looking for a C6 header for the passenger side here after LSFest. My goal is retain power steering and run AC. When we get back from LSFest this next weekend the car will be parked and the motor will be ripped back out. I need to get a better oil pump, have some lifter noise going on so i may swap to LS7 Lifters, take the cam out, dingle ball hone the cylinder, gap the rings, china head studs. You all know the drill lol.
Also going to chop the top radiator support off the car, weld in a plate and make it a removable piece. Makes working on the car much easier.
So, my turbo wont be here for a week or two. Does anyone currently have the billet version? I am trying to find out if it is Diverted or un_diverted. For simplicity RobbyD said to run a un-diverted flange (only 1 Waste-gate). Simply bring the crossover and Y into the flange.
Im going to be ordering my fabrication pipe, mounting flange, v bands, and start looking for a C6 header for the passenger side here after LSFest. My goal is retain power steering and run AC. When we get back from LSFest this next weekend the car will be parked and the motor will be ripped back out. I need to get a better oil pump, have some lifter noise going on so i may swap to LS7 Lifters, take the cam out, dingle ball hone the cylinder, gap the rings, china head studs. You all know the drill lol.
Also going to chop the top radiator support off the car, weld in a plate and make it a removable piece. Makes working on the car much easier.
Your plumbing and wastegate placement is really going to determine 1 wastegate or 2. I have 2 separate pipes from the headers right to the divided turbo flange, so I went with 2 38mm wastegates. If you merge into 1 before the turbo, you can put 1 right on that single pipe. Depending on room you could put 1 on each manifold. If I were to do it again that's probably the route I would take. There are a lot of ways to plumb it up, just do some research. Some will cause poor exhaust venting and create bad boost creep. Some obviously will be more ideal than others. As far as the divided and undivided it's somewhat irrelevant as to wastegate amount unless the 2 pipes don't meet until that flange. Another thing worth noting is that 1 gate big enough to vent everything can get hard to find room for.
I have to ask, and I'm not trying to dissuade you from doing motor work but again I'm of the mentality of cheap and easy. Why would you buy a new oil pump? The stock ones usually do just fine. Why studs? The stock head bolts aren't usually a point of failure and have been shown to be reusable. I'm just curious, I like to know what people's opinions are of this stuff.
Your plumbing and wastegate placement is really going to determine 1 wastegate or 2. I have 2 separate pipes from the headers right to the divided turbo flange, so I went with 2 38mm wastegates. If you merge into 1 before the turbo, you can put 1 right on that single pipe. Depending on room you could put 1 on each manifold. If I were to do it again that's probably the route I would take. There are a lot of ways to plumb it up, just do some research. Some will cause poor exhaust venting and create bad boost creep. Some obviously will be more ideal than others. As far as the divided and undivided it's somewhat irrelevant as to wastegate amount unless the 2 pipes don't meet until that flange. Another thing worth noting is that 1 gate big enough to vent everything can get hard to find room for.
I have to ask, and I'm not trying to dissuade you from doing motor work but again I'm of the mentality of cheap and easy. Why would you buy a new oil pump? The stock ones usually do just fine. Why studs? The stock head bolts aren't usually a point of failure and have been shown to be reusable. I'm just curious, I like to know what people's opinions are of this stuff.
Thanks for the info, RobbyD and i are gonna take a look at piping on my car during LSFest to see what route i should go.
I am running around 25 PSI hot on the oil pressure. Makes me a little uncomfortable knowing im going to be also feeding a turbo now.
Im going to have to take the heads off again to check lifters, push-rods to investigate some noises I'm having on the top end. And i have to take the cam out anyways. Figure if i spend the money on some studs i wont have to buy new head bolts everytime i have to take the heads off lol.
Thanks for the info, RobbyD and i are gonna take a look at piping on my car during LSFest to see what route i should go.
I am running around 25 PSI hot on the oil pressure. Makes me a little uncomfortable knowing im going to be also feeding a turbo now.
Im going to have to take the heads off again to check lifters, push-rods to investigate some noises I'm having on the top end. And i have to take the cam out anyways. Figure if i spend the money on some studs i wont have to buy new head bolts everytime i have to take the heads off lol.
From what I know of these motors I think hot, at idle, is usually around 27ish depending on your oil type. Yours sounds pretty normal to me. I understand the piece of mind thing though, but I'm still on the budget mindset I'm not sure I'll ever get out of haha. I was and am still at a current crossroads with my first lq4. Spun a rod bearing so I disassembled it. Then I'm saying to myself I'll buy a new this and that, headstuds blah blah blah. Mentally start my list. Then I'm like oh screw it I'll throw in gen 4 rods and pistons while I'm at it. Had this list, about to pull the trigger, and then I realize I can buy a whole gen 4 for less than half of what I'm about to sink into this motor. Will it have new everything? No. But the rods and pistons alone were a big chunk of the cost. So I'm probably going to sell my 2 lq for parts and pick up a gen 4 now. Not sure what they cost near you but could be a way to go. End up with the reliability and strength of the gen 4 internals too. Sorry for the ramble. Just food for thought.
Last edited by SwapStang; 09-05-2018 at 09:14 AM.
Reason: grammar
Swamp makes a good point I didn’t even think about.
Your motor as it sits is worth a good amount of money. It’s a running driving cammed 6.oh. Would be fairly easy to sell and swipe up a gen4 4.8 or 5.3. Your going to have to start over as far as cam and **** goes anyways. You could sell that 6.0 and it would pay for a gen4 motor and cam set up
re: oil pressure. my ls1 gto at hot idle is between 15-20psi. i spin it to 7000rpm every time i drive it. makes 465whp NA and has made this oil pressure for 8 years now. i replaced the oil pump, the dog bone, and run rotella 15w45 and it still is the same. Oil pressure raises 8-10psi per 1000 rpm like its supposed to and finishes off around 75-85psi at 7000. has not been an issue. my oil is always clean when i change it and doesnt sparkle.
re: oil pressure. my ls1 gto at hot idle is between 15-20psi. i spin it to 7000rpm every time i drive it. makes 465whp NA and has made this oil pressure for 8 years now. i replaced the oil pump, the dog bone, and run rotella 15w45 and it still is the same. Oil pressure raises 8-10psi per 1000 rpm like its supposed to and finishes off around 75-85psi at 7000. has not been an issue. my oil is always clean when i change it and doesnt sparkle.
Now THAT is testing a pump to it's limits haha. I'm sold on trusting a stocker.
Well, Car made its way down to LSFest pretty smooth. Handled nice, drove nice, cruising at 90 MPH while cruising in 6th at 2k rpm.
Had lots of fun down there, ran the car three times....need to learn how to launch on a manual trans. Could not quite get the handle of it, 1st pass i spun the **** out of the street tires, second and third pass not enough gas as i almost stalled it. SOOO looking for tips and pointers before i just ditch the 6 speed and go 4l80e lol. While leaving on Saturday night i was following RobbyD in the line out and noticed my voltage was down to 10.5V, pulled off we swapped his alternator to mine (forgot I snipped the alt pigtail off and went with a self regulating dr44G) that didn't work. Thank god for good friends and awesome car people because he left his wife and his car at the house they rented and trailered me back home 1.5 hours away. I cant thank that man enough.
Well, Car made its way down to LSFest pretty smooth. Handled nice, drove nice, cruising at 90 MPH while cruising in 6th at 2k rpm.
Had lots of fun down there, ran the car three times....need to learn how to launch on a manual trans. Could not quite get the handle of it, 1st pass i spun the **** out of the street tires, second and third pass not enough gas as i almost stalled it. SOOO looking for tips and pointers before i just ditch the 6 speed and go 4l80e lol. While leaving on Saturday night i was following RobbyD in the line out and noticed my voltage was down to 10.5V, pulled off we swapped his alternator to mine (forgot I snipped the alt pigtail off and went with a self regulating dr44G) that didn't work. Thank god for good friends and awesome car people because he left his wife and his car at the house they rented and trailered me back home 1.5 hours away. I cant thank that man enough.
That's a good man right there, not to mention a good wife! Hopefully next year I can make it to LSFest seemed like a really good time. You get the car sorted out yet?
Whats up guys, first time poster but long time lurker here.
Finally gathered up the cajones to start a build thread/progress checklist for myself. I have had a 2004 v6 Mustang since high school back in 2011. I have dumped a decent amount of money and time into this car to get it to where i want it ascetically so i didn't want to sell and get a GT after my insurance finally dropped to reasonable rates. This left me with a few options: 4.6 2v, 4.6 3v, cobra swap, and lastly the sacrilegious ls swap for mustang fan boys. Obviously I'm not stupid because LS swaps are dollar for HP better than the other options.
This brings me to where I am today, I have been searching, reading and dreaming about this swap for the last year and a half. So this thread will basically a way for me to gather information I need/have for future reference and also to show you guys whats happening and get input.
Parts Needed (Not Complete):
- Stock LQ4 Long block (Driving tonight to pickup from Chicago - $500)
- Fbody T56 (Picked up 11/1/17 - $1200)
- Shifter (MGW - $240)
- Slave Cylinder & Clutch Master Cylinder w/ Lines (McLeod Setup and GM Slave - $570) - Fbody Accessories (or make truck accessories work) (F-Body Brackets and Damper - $120) - F Body Oil Pan Kit (Everything needed - $230)
- F-Body Power Steering Pump, Condenser, Water Pump ($140) - Intake (Not sure what route to go IE: Best bag for buck) (Ls6 Loaded Intake - $330) - Fuel (Need to figure out fuel supply - v6 pump not good enough?) (Walbro 255 - $40)
- Brake Booster (Will stock v6 Vacuum Booster work?) (Clears - Will Work) - AJE K Member with Mounts (Black Friday Deal for Swap Kit - $800) - AJE Universal Cross Member (Unsure if needed) (Part of Swap Kit)
- Cobra Driveshaft ($40)
- Wiring Harness (Have truck ECU) (Truck Harness from 00 Yukon DBC - $32) - HPTuners (Most affordable option) (HPTuners Used with 6 Credits - $320) - Ford 8.8 Rear End (99-04 8.8" w/ 3.73's - $250)
- F Body Gauge Cluster (Using Stock Gauges)
- GT 5 Speed Bezel - Corvette Regulator ($20 from a friend) - Swap Headers (Part of Swap Kit) - Radiator and Fans ($40)
- Ls7 clutch, PP, Flywheel (Used w/ 12k Miles - $180_
- EV1 Injector Clips
- MM Steering Shaft ($280) - LS7 Clutch Kit ($180 - Low Mile)
Total Cost: $5512 (To N/A)
Plan is to run the motor stock without a rebuild until i have the cars bugs worked out, then start gathering parts to rebuild the motor and throw some go fast goodies inside. The trans was rebuilt 200 miles ago, has a slight whine in 1st gear but that is all? It also has a viper spec input shaft so i assume that is good.
Questions: - Can I use my stock control arms with AJE K Member or worth the money for theirs? Yes I Can. - Is the v6 fuel pump sufficient or should i invest in a cobra pump? Good to start the car, need a 255 LPH. - Should i throw a cam in and rebuild the stock heads leaving the block alone for now? - Can i use a cobra drive shaft and switch the yoke or will it bolt up fine? - What is the best budget friendly intake for these motors? Going to use a LS6 - Keep truck injectors or buy the EV1 connectors and run those? Running LS6 Intake and Rails, still need EV1 Clips.
Ill be updating these as more and more issues/questions come up. Thanks Guys!
EDIT (1/7/18): Making a list of all the things left to do to the car as they come up.
To Do List:
- Take Driveshaft to Napa or Oreileys and get a bastard u joint for t56 slip yoke and stock drive shaft. - Install 8.8" Rearend. - Drop tank add bulkhead to stock fuel hat and install Walbro 255 LPH pump. - Drill and tap passenger side block for alternator bracket (need 11/32 bit for M10x1.5 bolt). - Buy and install new spark plugs and wires.
- Attach trans and put all accessories on and layout the harness to make standalone. - Design fuel system - either run -6 AN to corvette regualtor or ditch the regulator and pick up a AEM FPR and Inline filter and use -8 AN. Either way it will be -6 AN return. - Tap oil pan for oil pressure gauge sender. - Tap passenger side head for temperature gauge sender. - Purchase AFR gauge and install into pod pillar and route wiring. - Get battery cables and grounding straps to rework power system to alternator, starter, and fuse block. - Purchase starter and install. - Take headers to fab shop to get v bands or ball and socket welded on. - Purchase gear oil and gasket for rear end - Install tie rods, ball joints, and sway bar end links - Install crash bar, foam support, and radiator air dams - Install foxbody upper radiator supports and also fabricate lower mounts for f-body radiator and fans - Fabricate power steering lines and also get MM pressure regulator - Wire fuel pump and radiator fans to relays - Remove all of the old fuel system from stock mustang stuff
- Figure out vacuum lines and how to hookup steam lines
Update 8/31/18:
Car is being taken apart after LSFest 2018, it will be now boosted on the stock block Lq4, and the tick t56.
I have an 01 Cobra looking to do an LS swap, any experience with passing emissions?
08-22-2018, 01:02 PM
