Am I going to have 6.0 envy?
#24
TECH Enthusiast
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 518
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
"What are ya building WHT? First the 80e...."
I'm about to rip the 80 out!
F'ing thing has been a pain in my *** since I put it in!.
I think it's the f'ing converter it too GD tight!
My cam need it to idle loose in gear and IT'S NOT!
Already sent it back in may to have it "loosened" up and it STILL WILL stall it when the trans is cold like today in the hi 30' low 40's.
It's no bargain when it's warm either!
WOT Perfect!
I was just on CL looking for th350's to put back in and have another 8" ATI treemaster done for my combo.
Then all my problems will go away.
Unfortunately so will the od and a lot of money!
Ok, I'm done.
I'm about to rip the 80 out!
F'ing thing has been a pain in my *** since I put it in!.
I think it's the f'ing converter it too GD tight!
My cam need it to idle loose in gear and IT'S NOT!
Already sent it back in may to have it "loosened" up and it STILL WILL stall it when the trans is cold like today in the hi 30' low 40's.
It's no bargain when it's warm either!
WOT Perfect!
I was just on CL looking for th350's to put back in and have another 8" ATI treemaster done for my combo.
Then all my problems will go away.
Unfortunately so will the od and a lot of money!
Ok, I'm done.
#26
TECH Enthusiast
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 518
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Mines a circle D. 6F
I have to be at 1k at idle for my cam. Even when I'm there, it will take off with no gas and labor to keep running when you come to a stop. I have to raise it to 1200 to to be just OK but that's WAY too high and it's too tight. Then it will want to do 10+ mph down the road idling!
I'm going to do the "smoke" test to see if I have any vacuum leaks from the valley of the intake before I do anything drastic.
Very very frustrating AND expensive!!!
I just want it to work or rip it out and go back to my old set up but I can't do that without spending more money as the t350 and treemaster are in my sons BU now and he's got a 600hp engine going in so that's out.
Plus he loves that trans/converter combo. I know this because there's 75' stripes at various stop signs on the outskirts of town!!
I have to be at 1k at idle for my cam. Even when I'm there, it will take off with no gas and labor to keep running when you come to a stop. I have to raise it to 1200 to to be just OK but that's WAY too high and it's too tight. Then it will want to do 10+ mph down the road idling!
I'm going to do the "smoke" test to see if I have any vacuum leaks from the valley of the intake before I do anything drastic.
Very very frustrating AND expensive!!!
I just want it to work or rip it out and go back to my old set up but I can't do that without spending more money as the t350 and treemaster are in my sons BU now and he's got a 600hp engine going in so that's out.
Plus he loves that trans/converter combo. I know this because there's 75' stripes at various stop signs on the outskirts of town!!
Last edited by wht/73; 11-11-2017 at 06:34 AM.
#27
TECH Enthusiast
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 518
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Today it's 27.5* outside ( I don't have to tell you about cold up there in NH!) and my car isn't in the garage....so the car is going to be a BEAR to back out of my driveway without 2 footing it OR it WILL stall immediately.
And this is with FI. Won't do anything with a carb on it at 70*.
Tried to rule out the FI with the carb and NO DICE!
And this is with FI. Won't do anything with a carb on it at 70*.
Tried to rule out the FI with the carb and NO DICE!
#29
Banned
iTrader: (1)
"What are ya building WHT? First the 80e...."
I'm about to rip the 80 out!
F'ing thing has been a pain in my *** since I put it in!.
I think it's the f'ing converter it too GD tight!
My cam need it to idle loose in gear and IT'S NOT!
Already sent it back in may to have it "loosened" up and it STILL WILL stall it when the trans is cold like today in the hi 30' low 40's.
It's no bargain when it's warm either!
WOT Perfect!
I was just on CL looking for th350's to put back in and have another 8" ATI treemaster done for my combo.
Then all my problems will go away.
Unfortunately so will the od and a lot of money!
Ok, I'm done.
I'm about to rip the 80 out!
F'ing thing has been a pain in my *** since I put it in!.
I think it's the f'ing converter it too GD tight!
My cam need it to idle loose in gear and IT'S NOT!
Already sent it back in may to have it "loosened" up and it STILL WILL stall it when the trans is cold like today in the hi 30' low 40's.
It's no bargain when it's warm either!
WOT Perfect!
I was just on CL looking for th350's to put back in and have another 8" ATI treemaster done for my combo.
Then all my problems will go away.
Unfortunately so will the od and a lot of money!
Ok, I'm done.
I am pretty sure you can just lower the trans-line pressure while in gear at idle so the converter won't pull the car as much and try to stall the engine against the brake.
I noticed the same thing when my trans got warmer it seemed to really drag the car forward compared to when it was cold in gear, it would barely move. Then I got more of the trans-pressure straightened out and its much better now. I just havn't had time to really mess with it yes specifically for this issue but I am bring it up for you because maybe you just need to lower the trans-in gear pressure and be all fixed up....
#30
TECH Enthusiast
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 518
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I am pretty sure you can just lower the trans-line pressure while in gear at idle so the converter won't pull the car as much and try to stall the engine against the brake.
I noticed the same thing when my trans got warmer it seemed to really drag the car forward compared to when it was cold in gear, it would barely move. Then I got more of the trans-pressure straightened out and its much better now. I just havn't had time to really mess with it yes specifically for this issue but I am bring it up for you because maybe you just need to lower the trans-in gear pressure and be all fixed up....
I noticed the same thing when my trans got warmer it seemed to really drag the car forward compared to when it was cold in gear, it would barely move. Then I got more of the trans-pressure straightened out and its much better now. I just havn't had time to really mess with it yes specifically for this issue but I am bring it up for you because maybe you just need to lower the trans-in gear pressure and be all fixed up....
In gear it's 55 psi and reverse is 100 AFTER I lowered the L2D boost to zero.
I don't think I can lower that anymore then 0.
Sorry to get off topic.
#32
TECH Senior Member
All part of "Continuing Education"....
#34
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (3)
Hey wht/73,
It kinda sounds like your TC is locking up at idle. I googled it and found this in another thread.
Hope this helps with your troubleshooting.
It kinda sounds like your TC is locking up at idle. I googled it and found this in another thread.
Symptoms like this are common with 4L80E. The pumps are marginal to begin with and if asked to make higher pressure this symptom is more likely. Basically what is happens is at idle rpm's the pump is not able make 100% of the pressure it is calibrated to. As a result (by design) it restricts oil into the converter. Oil flow is needed in the converter to keep the TCC piston released. No/low oil flow and the TCC piston drags on resulting in symptoms like you describe. This can also be caused by a restricted cooler system due to pinched cooler line, restricted cooler, or wrong bushings in transmission etc. Things that will help are. . .
- Make sure pump clearances are perfect.
- Reduce unnecessary internal leaks that waste pump volume.
- Lower line pressure at idle.
- Increase idle rpm.
- Verify correct cooler oil flow, http://www.sonnax.com/pdfs/76-SonnaF...-E-Normal-Poor
- If not already done, add a line pressure to converter charge circuit oil path, to help keep the converter circuit charged with oil. This can be done by drilling a ~.040" hole between passages in the pump, or by installing this valve --> http://www.sonnax.com/parts/1989 In most units this valve can be installed without removing transmission.
If you are certain the TCC is dragging, my suggestion is to check with the builder to see if a line pressure to converter charge circuit oil path was added when built. If it has not, work through list above, if not install valve and check cooler flow etc.
HTH
Gregg Nader
Sonnax Tec
- Make sure pump clearances are perfect.
- Reduce unnecessary internal leaks that waste pump volume.
- Lower line pressure at idle.
- Increase idle rpm.
- Verify correct cooler oil flow, http://www.sonnax.com/pdfs/76-SonnaF...-E-Normal-Poor
- If not already done, add a line pressure to converter charge circuit oil path, to help keep the converter circuit charged with oil. This can be done by drilling a ~.040" hole between passages in the pump, or by installing this valve --> http://www.sonnax.com/parts/1989 In most units this valve can be installed without removing transmission.
If you are certain the TCC is dragging, my suggestion is to check with the builder to see if a line pressure to converter charge circuit oil path was added when built. If it has not, work through list above, if not install valve and check cooler flow etc.
HTH
Gregg Nader
Sonnax Tec
Last edited by BudRacing; 11-13-2017 at 02:12 PM.
#35
TECH Enthusiast
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 518
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks, but the sonnax LTL valve was put in pump 6 months ago prior to converter being sent back to be checked to see if it was in fact dragging.
They said it looked perfect and my trans guy said fluid look fine also when he installed the LTL valve.
Ready to blow my head off!
They said it looked perfect and my trans guy said fluid look fine also when he installed the LTL valve.
Ready to blow my head off!
#37
TECH Enthusiast
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 518
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm going to do a "smoke" test to see if possibly there is a intake leak from the valley.
Times in my sig were with a 8" treemaster leaving off 900 rpm idle.
It will laugh at me know at anything below 1100.
I tried replacing the TB FI with a carb and it's worse!
Had to put the FI back on. The only thing keeping it running is the IAC motor.
I tried leaning it out and fattening it out at idle with 0 change.
Last edited by wht/73; 11-13-2017 at 12:37 PM.
#39
TECH Enthusiast
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 518
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Boost makes it a lot easier but has it's own thing to keep an eye on!
My next engine will probably be Procharged.
Last edited by wht/73; 11-13-2017 at 01:25 PM.